Distributor: Single Point vs Dual vs with Pertronix vs....

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Rustyfish

Rustyfish

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So my '65 273 Charger engine is getting broken down. Pulled and distributor to assess and look forward to options. First problem is that the riveted breaker plate wire is barely hanging on. Also, this is very likely the original which would put it at 90k miles just for background.
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This is among many other electrical related issues with the car so far.

Looking at Options: Keeping in mind at this point I don't know if the engine is any good and part of the Get Running and Driving 2 thread.

1. Wondering how hard to replace this wire. Assume I'd either have to disassemble the distributor or grind the rivet and screw a new wire in it's place.

2. Replace with cheap off the shelf single point dizzy (by far cheapest option).

3. Replace with cheap off the shelf single point and add Pertronix (making an assumption that there's no or little difference between single and double point units if they're updgraded with Pertronix).

4. Replace with Pertronix distributor or other similar higher performance dizzy.
 
Option 1 Get a new Pertronix distributor and your problems will end.
Option 2 get a factory replacement distributor and add the Pertronix conversion and your problems will end.
 
the conversion on a prestolite dual point also has ground strap

dizzy2.JPG
 
I opted for the Pertronix ignition and installed it a NOS Prestolite dual point distributor. No miles on the car yet but the ignition works fine.
 
Just for the street, I would have the original rebuilt and put it back into service. It worked well for how long?

Keep in mind, a point type distributor in good shape will run just as well as an electronic. If you want a hotter spark, you can upgrade the coil. People argue against points all the time, but that's the truth. Of course electronic beats points out for being pretty much maintenance free, but that's really about it. Especially for a street car.
 
Replacing that wire is part of standard distributor maintenance <grin>. At least, every time I pick up a car, it needs one. While you're at it, disassemble the whole thing and clean it up and make sure the breaker plate and the advance weights move freely. So long as the shaft does not have too much play, it should be good to go. I am not saying that electronic ignition wouldn't be better in some respects, I'm just saying that what you have should work while you're sorting out all the other issues.
 
FJRdoc said:
I opted for the Pertronix ignition and installed it a NOS Prestolite dual point distributor. No miles on the car yet but the ignition works fine.
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Out of curiosity which unit did they give you. So far I've gotten from them that I need #1584, but others seem to be getting good results with #1383.
 
mvh said:
Replacing that wire is part of standard distributor maintenance <grin>. At least, every time I pick up a car, it needs one. While you're at it, disassemble the whole thing and clean it up and make sure the breaker plate and the advance weights move freely. So long as the shaft does not have too much play, it should be good to go. I am not saying that electronic ignition wouldn't be better in some respects, I'm just saying that what you have should work while you're sorting out all the other issues.
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I'm figuring that with the mileage it needs a rebuild. But I can get a cheap single point dizzy add pertronix and be in the same place.
 
The #1383 fits the breaker plate because of the smaller points in the HP distributors. I have had issues with purchasing points as well. I received big block points (backward), 340 points (too big) and even 2 sets of single points. :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead: #1383 is the one.
 
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rustyfish said:
I'm figuring that with the mileage it needs a rebuild. But I can get a cheap single point dizzy add pertronix and be in the same place.
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Not really.
Single point won't have the high rpm dwell time of a dual point. If your drag racing, dual point is better.
A cheap replacement distributor won't have the same timing curve. Having the correct timing is more important for good combustion, power and efficiency than all the other factors.
 
Mattax said:
Not really.
Single point won't have the high rpm dwell time of a dual point. If your drag racing, dual point is better.
A cheap replacement distributor won't have the same timing curve. Having the correct timing is more important for good combustion, power and efficiency than all the other factors.
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I wonder if the Pertronix 1 is just a simple trigger with no extended dwell time. I know it is not a multi-spark.
 
I would buy a re-man factory electronic distributor, and convert it to hei, use the design to drive bracket, and an internal resistance coil.
 
Mattax said:
Not really.
Single point won't have the high rpm dwell time of a dual point. If your drag racing, dual point is better.
A cheap replacement distributor won't have the same timing curve. Having the correct timing is more important for good combustion, power and efficiency than all the other factors.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind this is part of my Get Running & Driving thread. The motor is an unknown. If I put a bunch of cash into accessories only to find out the motor needs a rebuild, then I might need a new direction. I'm in discovery mode, so probably answering my own question. Just need enough now to get everything running to evaluate the full drive train package.
 
rustyfish said:
Keep in mind this is part of my Get Running & Driving thread. The motor is an unknown. If I put a bunch of cash into accessories only to find out the motor needs a rebuild, then I might need a new direction. I'm in discovery mode, so probably answering my own question. Just need enough now to get everything running to evaluate the full drive train package.
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I have a working points distributor, but the vacuum advance is funky, I can ship to you.
Just take the advance and whatever you need off your distributor, and send me a complete distributor back, I only need it for a core.
PM me and I will get it out to you. Free, just make sure I get a core back.
 
rustyfish said:
Keep in mind this is part of my Get Running & Driving thread. The motor is an unknown. If I put a bunch of cash into accessories only to find out the motor needs a rebuild, then I might need a new direction. I'm in discovery mode, so probably answering my own question. Just need enough now to get everything running to evaluate the full drive train package.
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Then depends on your skills, time, and interest in fixing.
I'd probably make a temporary repair to be sure the ground will not fail during engine testing.
Knowing a dual point will always have some value, I'd also talk with Halifaxhops before drilling out the rivet if thats what was needed.
But everyone is different. Do it the way you feel comfortable and makes sense to you.
 
Mattax said:
I think that's it.
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They sure make the engine start better and run smoother. I would imagine a old distributor with sloppy bushings has a lot of dwell variation. The electronics are more forgiving and eliminates that.
 
Just off the dyno with my 383 resto motor with single points. Many pulls to 6K without a hitch. Just saying that stock points work good.
 
the thing I appreciate is the quality of the Prestolite distributor. Rock solid construction, with ball-bearing advance/points plate.
 
The ground strap is not hard to replace it is riveted in and has to be drilled out ad hollow riveted back in. Napa had them at one time or just make one. But first see if the bushings have any side play at all and turn the shaft and see if the cam wobbles at all to check it before even going to change the strap. Like Matt said the curve is what it is all about. store rebuilds cover a span of years with a middle of the road curve so it can be good or bad. Same with the one wire chineese they usually are all in fast. Really your call and your wallet what you decide to do. Points will last a long time as long as they are good quality and have a good condenser which seems hard to find in the stores now. Also make sure you get the right points for the distributor also. Verify them before ordering.
 
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halifaxhops said:
The ground strap is not hard to replace it is riveted in and has to be drilled out ad hollow riveted back in. Napa had them at one time or just make one. But first see if the bushings have any side play at all and turn the shaft and see if the cam wobbles at all to check it before even going to change the strap. Like Matt said the curve is what it is all about. store rebuilds cover a span of years with a middle of the road curve so it can be good or bad. Same with the one wire chineese they usually are all in fast. Really your call and your wallet what you decide to do. Points will last a long time as long as they are good quality and have a good condenser which seems hard to find in the stores now. Also make sure you get the right points for the distributor also. Verify them before ordering.
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There is little to no wobble and rotates freely and smoothly. So if I add the pertronix it won't need to ground wire?

Pertronix maintains I would need #1584 ignitor for my prestolite. I'm skeptical.
 
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