408 Scat Stroker Kits

-
mopowers

mopowers

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
8,523
Reaction score
4,720
Location
West Sacramento, CA
How do you guys like the Scat 408 cast crank rotating assemblies? I'm thinking of throwing together a "semi-budget" 408 shortblock and have begun pricing out kits.

Are the Scat cast crank kits with Icon 745 pistons worth a crap? $1,500 for a balanced rotating assembly seems pretty inexpensive. Are there any corners cut with these?
 
Go forged, it's only a couple hundreds dollars more for safety and peace of mind. Summit will price match! I saved nearly $200 by shopping around and having summit price match on my 408 forged scat kit.
 
I've been satisfied with my scat cast crank and I beam rods. I also got the kit that had icon forged pistons and total seal rings. Lightly drag race for several years and plenty of Street use and it still runs great to this very day as a matter of fact better than ever.. I'm on my second cam profile as well. Great bang for the buck and haven't heard anybody having problems personally...
If I thought I was going to be pushing over 600 horsepower on a regular basis I would probably go with forged but then again I would probably start with a better than stock block.
My-2
 
I have their forged kit (forged crank, forged Icon flat tops, forged I-beams) in my Barracuda. I've only had this motor running for a short time, but it seams to be holding up well (street driven and raced often). Running 6.5's @104 in the warm humid air. I'm pleased with it.

Forged or cast...I guess that depends on what you are doing with it, and what kind of power you expect.
 
I'm working on buying all the parts for a 408 build, as well, and I settled on the forged over the cast. For the price difference, I couldn't justify not just biting the bullet and getting the forged. These are expensive components no matter what, and not having to worry about damage because I wanted to save a few bucks on the rotating assembly seemed like a no-brainer. I'm trying to keep my build relatively cheap, too, but this didn't feel like the place to go cheaper - to me at least. Even though I haven't purchased the scat kit yet, I've heard nothing but good things and plan on going with their kit.
 
flyfish said:
Forged or cast...I guess that depends on what you are doing with it, and what kind of power you expect.
Click to expand...

That is the magic statement right there..........what are you looking to do?? The often said statement of " for a few dollars more bla, bla, bla, you can buy peace of mind...." to me, peace of mind is knowing...."to know" implies certainty. My thoughts........less than 550hp and operational ceiling of 6500 rpm you'll be fine.
 
JBurch said:
That is the magic statement right there..........what are you looking to do?? The often said statement of " for a few dollars more bla, bla, bla, you can buy peace of mind...." to me, peace of mind is knowing...."to know" implies certainty. My thoughts........less than 550hp and operational ceiling of 6500 rpm you'll be fine.
Click to expand...
That's a good point. If you're aiming for 450ish HP it might make sense to just go with the cast. Personally, anywhere above that I'd do forged for peace of mind and to have room to grow. But again that's just my opinion and feelings on the thing. In the end it's a just a judgement call for you to make.
 
SCAT components are high quality. Forged or cast crankshaft is dependent on application. 65'
 
I have hammered on the 4” cast with scat h beam rods for 700+ passes and at least 55,000 hard street miles. Spinning it to 6400 rpm making about 425 hp in a 3400 car. Most of that time with the icon dished forged piston. Pulled it apart to change over to the icon flat top to bump compression and a well earned refresh. The crank was still arrow straight, the bearings were toast, but that was me. I had popped a head gasket twice so water had been at the bearings. For 450hp knowing you won’t want to go for much more power in the future I wouldn’t hesitate. Still running it and if you can believe the calculators it is making 415 at the rear wheels now
 
Its a small thing, but I wanted to use a bolt stretch gauge to torque the rods, but scat only uses torque value. Which seemed inaccurate for a supposed performance rod. Probably a non-issue but it bugged me.
 
I would like to see somebody post a picture of a broken mopar cast scat crank? Even a broken stock mopar cast crank?
 
Only corner cutting I see is check out the price at Clegg engine $1419 may interest you!
 
How is the balance on the kits? I have seen guys with other kits buy the cast to save a few bucks and end up spending more than a forged kit getting it in balance. If the Scat kit is balanced right it shouldn't be a problem though.
 
Thanks everyone.

How was their balance job out of the box?

How were the other components? Rings, bearings, rod bolts, etc?
 
mopowers said:
Thanks everyone.

How was their balance job out of the box?

How were the other components? Rings, bearings, rod bolts, etc?
Click to expand...
I ordered mine balanced, and it really was good to go, nothing else needed. I do remember when I ordered the kit that the piston manufacture was undetermined (could be Icon, SRP, or Weisco if I recall correctly). I was fine with all 3, so I proceeded. My guess is it was to use as little heavy metal as possible in the balance (once rods were selected) to keep the price down. In my case, no heavy metal was required due to the light weight of the I-beams and the Icon flat top.

Bearings were good (Clevite).
Rod bolts were ARP 2000.
Total Seal file fit rings...all good parts, quality kit.

The only thing that threw me for a loop was the aesthetics of the Scat forged crank. I sat it next to my Eagle forged crank that was in the previous motor and it looked rough in comparison to the very clean lines of the Eagle forged piece....but it works great, no complaints other than it is a little "ugly", which makes no difference whatsoever.
 
Last edited:
The only cast crank I ever broke was a Mickey Thompson stroker in a 392 Hemi boat motor
could idle back to the launch ramp but it would slip if you gave it any throttle
Mickey gave me a new one
The 6 cyl Rambler Indy motor
we tried both the stock ARMASTEEL and the stock Nodular Iron cranks up to 1,200 + hp for long periods on the LA Champion spark plug dino and at Indy at 1000 hp
no problems with either
balance and no detonation is the key
 
Eagle cast crank.:lol:

app.jpg
 
If you topped it off with a set of the new Trick Flow heads, i think you would have a real winner on your hands..............
 
JBurch said:
That is the magic statement right there..........what are you looking to do?? The often said statement of " for a few dollars more bla, bla, bla, you can buy peace of mind...." to me, peace of mind is knowing...."to know" implies certainty. My thoughts........less than 550hp and operational ceiling of 6500 rpm you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

I agree with this statement, I'm building 412 project with a scat stroker kit, cast crank, and do not plan on spinning it over 6400, it also has icon forged pistons which I found out from scat that they are a keith black division. if I were spinning it constantly at 8 grand forged would be the way to go imho.
higgs
 
flyfish said:
I ordered mine balanced, and it really was good to go, nothing else needed. I do remember when I ordered the kit that the piston manufacture was undetermined (could be Icon, SRP, or Weisco if I recall correctly). I was fine with all 3, so I proceeded. My guess is it was to use as little heavy metal as possible in the balance (once rods were selected) to keep the price down. In my case, no heavy metal was required due to the light weight of the I-beams and the Icon flat top.

Bearings were good (Clevite).
Rod bolts were ARP 2000.
Total Seal file fit rings...all good parts, quality kit.

The only thing that threw me for a loop was the aesthetics of the Scat forged crank. I sat it next to my Eagle forged crank that was in the previous motor and it looked rough in comparison to the very clean lines of the Eagle forged piece....but it works great, no complaints other than it is a little "ugly", which makes no difference whatsoever.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Looks like they've changed their kits a little. They now come with King bearings and ARP 8740 bolts. Either way, they seem pretty cost effective.
 
I broke an Eagle cast crank few years back.
Had a cast crank 416 shortblock with moderately prepped eddies on it. Ran 10.70’s in a 3350 pound car
In the offseason i upgraded the motor a bit
Ran 10.30’s at same weight. Lasted till August of that season. Crank broke, broke block.
 
I went with forged Scat crank, rods, pistons in my 408 magnum. Shifting around 6400 with 8 psi of boost. Nah.... I'll take forged over cast...lol
 
I went with the cast scat crank and kit for my 416 with the kieth black pistons hypereutectics. It came balanced and was right on. I knew I am not drag racing and and going over 550 hp so why spend the extra money. I have a couple friends running similar set ups and they race and beat the crap out of their engines and never have any problems. So I guess just know what you want to do and don’t over spend where you don’t need to so you can put money in other parts of your build like a good tranny and rear end to handle the power. 450 hp is a lot and you don’t have to spend a fortune or go crazy to get there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top