440 roller cam conversion parts list.

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MomsDuster

MomsDuster

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Hey folks, Thinking about doing a roller cam swap in my 440. Getting a parts list together. What am I missing?

1) roller cam
2) roller lifters
3) roller rockers
4) push rods
5) distributor shaft (bronze?)
6) valve springs to match cam specs
7) gaskets and fluids
8) cam button?
 
MomsDuster said:
Hey folks, Thinking about doing a roller cam swap in my 440. Getting a parts list together. What am I missing?

1) roller cam
2) roller lifters
3) roller rockers
4) push rods
5) distributor shaft (bronze?)
6) valve springs to match cam specs
7) gaskets and fluids
8) cam button?
Click to expand...


For my own edumication, is the distributor shaft required because it's a roller or are you just getting a new one "because"?
 
Cuda416 said:
For my own edumication, is the distributor shaft required because it's a roller or are you just getting a new one "because"?
Click to expand...
To be honest it’s just what i understood was needed. Something about flat tappet cam and lifter design are what help keep the cam centered. I haven’t had any real experience so that’s one reason I started this thread. To gain knowledge as to what is needed to make the switch.
 
MomsDuster said:
To be honest it’s just what i understood was needed. Something about flat tappet cam and lifter design are what help keep the cam centered. I haven’t had any real experience so that’s one reason I started this thread. To gain knowledge as to what is needed to make the switch.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, I have no idea either so maybe someone will clarify.
 
You are going to need retainers and locks for the new springs.

What heads are you using?

Steel billet camshafts are going to require the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft.

The cam button is used to keep the roller cam back in the cam tunnel. Flat tappet cams are kept in the cam tunnel by the taper ground on the cam lobes and roller cam lobes are ground parallel with the cam.

Get a good, stiff timing cover for the cam button, like this AREngineering one...........

BB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
 
IQ52 said:
You are going to need retainers and locks for the new springs.

What heads are you using?

Steel billet camshafts are going to require the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft.

The cam button is used to keep the roller cam back in the cam tunnel. Flat tappet cams are kept in the cam tunnel by the taper ground on the cam lobes and roller cam lobes are ground parallel with the cam.

Get a good, stiff timing cover for the cam button, like this AREngineering one...........

BB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
Click to expand...
Engine has 915 heads that have had some mild porting and the chambers polished. They also have been machined for the springs that comp recommend for the existing cam that is in it.
 
You didn’t say what size roller cam, but the 915 heads are likely to become the bottleneck. I would spend the money on some aftermarket heads like Trick Flow 240s and then if you used a roller cam you wouldn’t be choking it off.
 
Angleiron2 said:
You didn’t say what size roller cam, but the 915 heads are likely to become the bottleneck. I would spend the money on some aftermarket heads like Trick Flow 240s and then if you used a roller cam you wouldn’t be choking it off.
Click to expand...
Haven’t made any decision on size. Figure if and when I decide to take the plunge I would talk to a cam guy and get one that suits my needs.
 
It’s up to you, but I don’t think there is much point using a roller cam with 915 heads , especially if you drive it on the street. You could sell the 915s and get a set of 240 trick flows then if you wanted to go to a larger cam you wouldn’t compromise it. I have a stock displacement 440 that we raced with Indy EZ heads, we put those heads on a 512 making them maxwedge intake ports. We have the spare 446 engine with Ross pistons at 10.7 to 1, so we are going to put a flat tapped solid lifter cam .520 and Trick Flow 240. The heads will flow better than the cam, so maybe later we will put a bigger cam in it. Maybe not we just are shooting for sportsman 12 second car that is street friendly
 
MomsDuster said:
To be honest it’s just what i understood was needed. Something about flat tappet cam and lifter design are what help keep the cam centered. I haven’t had any real experience so that’s one reason I started this thread. To gain knowledge as to what is needed to make the switch.
Click to expand...
The taper on a flat tapped lifters keep the cam from traveling forward or back, but a roller lifter has no taper. I run a solid roller cam in a street strip car and I used the nylon button to get about .005 travel on the cam. I have been told some cams will try to travel so hard they will mushroom the button, The is a needle bearing button available. I just change my timing chain and the nylon button was fine after maybe 200 runs and some street driving. The cam is .646/646 solid roller with 266/272 duration @ .050. The lash on a solid roller must be checked often to avoid disaster.
 
Angleiron2 said:
The taper on a flat tapped lifters keep the cam from traveling forward or back, but a roller lifter has no taper. I run a solid roller cam in a street strip car and I used the nylon button to get about .005 travel on the cam. I have been told some cams will try to travel so hard they will mushroom the button, The is a needle bearing button available. I just change my timing chain and the nylon button was fine after maybe 200 runs and some street driving. The cam is .646/646 solid roller with 266/272 duration @ .050. The lash on a solid roller must be checked often to avoid disaster.
Click to expand...
Thanks , I appreciate the input. :thumbsup:
 
MomsDuster said:
Engine has 915 heads that have had some mild porting and the chambers polished. They also have been machined for the springs that comp recommend for the existing cam that is in it.
Click to expand...
Depending upon the new spring size you may have to machine the iron heads again and/or use spring locators.

A mildly ported 915 head could easily support a moderate street solid roller. We have successfully used .800" lift rollers on 906 heads.
 
IQ52 said:
Depending upon the new spring size you may have to machine the iron heads again and/or use spring locators.

A mildly ported 915 head could easily support a moderate street solid roller. We have successfully used .800" lift rollers on 906 heads.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I appreciate all of the information I can get. As it looks right now i’ll Have lots of time to research and decide, as going roller on a RB Mopar is quite the expensive endeavor in my world!
 
get
IQ52 said:
You are going to need retainers and locks for the new springs.

What heads are you using?

Steel billet camshafts are going to require the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft.

The cam button is used to keep the roller cam back in the cam tunnel. Flat tappet cams are kept in the cam tunnel by the taper ground on the cam lobes and roller cam lobes are ground parallel with the cam.

Get a good, stiff timing cover for the cam button, like this AREngineering one...........

BB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
Click to expand...

Was going to add a cam button , but he beat me too it ---
You can get a steel intermediate shaft from hughs engines , that will work on any cam . I have one on my 440/505 -------
 
IQ52 said:
You are going to need retainers and locks for the new springs.

What heads are you using?

Steel billet camshafts are going to require the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft.

The cam button is used to keep the roller cam back in the cam tunnel. Flat tappet cams are kept in the cam tunnel by the taper ground on the cam lobes and roller cam lobes are ground parallel with the cam.

Get a good, stiff timing cover for the cam button, like this AREngineering one...........

BB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
Click to expand...


Or weld up a stainless shim/washer or what ever in the cover to stiffen it, before setting the endplay on the cam button .
You can even shim the distance between the back of the water pump and the timing cover if ur carefull and precise , course u have to be , either way u do it. .007-.010 recommended endplay --------I did both.
Gotta watch the gasket thicknesses on diff. brand gaskets when changing something "down the road" too .
 
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