Best rattle can black for k member / trans mount ?

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4mulas

4mulas

Fixem'up
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Looking for recommends on brand(s) for satin finish rattle can black paint. Would like something durable that sticks. All parts are freshly media blasted so no primer versions would be a plus too.

Thanks
 
I like Rustoleum products, but.... realize this, the paint is the can has more solids than the aerosol so better protection/sealing, I would consider the $ for a qt or gal ( if you will do the body work) for a good epoxy primer, then topcpat with can of rustoleum applied with brush or sponge deal.
For aerosol I prefer Rustoleum.
At the Mopar factory I better the K member was simply dipped in to vat of enamel?
 
This is an almost exact match for factory black parts-

eafdf107-698c-4c37-b9ed-0c6c36fbf395_1.be66d2964292f3d871ece5134db4032f.jpg
 
I painted part of the engine mounts on a parts truck and two weeks later I couldn't tell where I had painted and where I stopped.
 
4mulas said:
Looking for recommends on brand(s) for satin finish rattle can black paint. Would like something durable that sticks. All parts are freshly media blasted so no primer versions would be a plus too.

Thanks
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Not overlooking your rattle can wants, but Eastwood's frame paint is killer stuff and hard as hell.
Not putting down the spray can idea, but it's going to get chipped up from road junk and the frame paint won't.
They advertise that you can hit it with a hammer and not chip it.

In a rattle can, epoxy paint is going to be your best bet for durability.
 
4mulas said:
Looking for recommends on brand(s) for satin finish rattle can black paint. Would like something durable that sticks. All parts are freshly media blasted so no primer versions would be a plus too.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Have been using caliper paint on some chassis parts. Seems to have more body and is very durable.
 
Well, at the end of the day I just finished spraying 18 backing plates, 4 upper control arms, a big block kmember, 4 speed trani mount all in Eastwood chassis black. I had a pint of it lying around but was feeling lazy and initially didn’t want to clean the gun afterwards. Glad I did it though, the have turned out great after a couple coats, will take them off the line tomorrow after they are cured enough to handle.

Thanks for the replies!
 
4mulas said:
Looking for recommends on brand(s) for satin finish rattle can black paint. Would like something durable that sticks. All parts are freshly media blasted so no primer versions would be a plus too.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I can tell you not to use Duplicolor.
That stuff is crap.
I speak from experience.
 
Just did all my front end parts today
Looks pretty good if i do say so myself !

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X4 on Rustoleum but I think semi gloss comes closer to the sheen of the enamel the factory used
 
I'm real partial to Krylon satin black enamel and it holds up real well. The surface prep and primer are paramount. Eastwood acid etch is the very best surface prep. And a wire brush. Sandblast makes pits. Wire brush, flap wheel, steel wool and mineral spirits will get everything sparkly. If you have rusty areas in crevices the Loctite rust neutralizer works great for that. I prefer the brush-on over the spray; it works better and you get way more for your money. Invest in some real good 2-part self-hardening primer; you don't want it chipping or rusting through. Krylon also makes a very good industrial rust preventative spray paint that goes on nice and has a real attractive satin-flat luster, though I don't know from personal experience how well it holds up.

On a related note, I just bought some Slip Plate to try out on my exhaust manifolds. Lotta people are saying that stuff is a miracle so I'm gonna find out. Supposedly it'll make exhaust manifolds shine like new metal with every-couple-year reapplications. One thing that always bugs me is a beautiful engine with rusty or paint-peelin' exhaust manifolds and I never found a paint that'd hold up. This Slip Plate stuff is the latest thing to come over from industrial to automotive, a graphite coating. Ad says "slippery when dry". Also supposedly real good for stuff like mower decks and snowblower chutes.
 
I'm real partial to Krylon satin black enamel and it holds up real well. The surface prep and primer are paramount. Eastwood acid etch is the very best surface prep. And a wire brush. Sandblast makes pits. Wire brush, flap wheel, steel wool and mineral spirits will get everything sparkly. If you have rusty areas in crevices the Loctite rust neutralizer works great for that. I prefer the brush-nvest in some real good 2-part self-hardening primer; you don't want it chipping or rusting through. Krylon also makes a very good industrial rust preventative spray paint that goes on nice and has a real attractive satin-flat luster, though I don't know from personal experience how well it holds up.

On a related note, I just bought some Slip Plate to try out on my exhaust manifolds. Lotta people are saying that stuff is a miracle so I'm gonna find out. Supposedly it'll make exhaust manifolds shine like new metal with every-couple-year reapplications. One thing that always bugs me is a beautiful engine with rusty or paint-peelin' exhaust manifolds and I never found a paint that'd hold up. This Slip Plate stuff is the latest thing to come over from industrial to automotive, a graphite coating. Ad says "slippery when dry". Also supposedly real good for stuff like mower decks and snowblower chutes.
 
Can always look into powder coating as well. Thought I had a picture of mine but I dont.
 
For under body, out of a rattle can John Deere Blitz Black is good.

If you are using a spray gun, Tractor Supply Majic paint in matte black with the hardner added is excellent.
 
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i also use this when i don't have them powder coated.. i don't use primer under it.. holds up great..

15591988214387490238534516842762-jpg.jpg
 
Living in the midwest we have a lot of John Deere dealers around. They have canned spray paint that is the best I have found.

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