Torque converter crack

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Like he said. you just want to be able to move car. replace the seal put your reman converter in and fill fluid. It will keep you mobile for a while. your leak most likely was from the crack/seal and just ran down to the area you saw the fluid at.
 
what are the chances I wore through that bushing?

Not worn through, but that bushing is trash, and it's easy to tell by the converter hub.
If you put a new converter in that old bushing you will be buying another one.
At the very least it needs the pump disassembled and inspected and if the pump is ok a new bushing and seal.
Then the cooler lines need to be flushed (both directions) a new filter and fluid.
(AT THE VERY LEAST)

That transmission would come down if it was mine. Where did all the metal go?

Through the pump, converter, cooler lines and into the pan at the very least.
 
It wasn't in my budget to buy high end stuff. If that converter lasts even 3000 miles.

It will last the life of the car with me driving it.

I've put a lot into it already just making it roadworthy and even running.

I will get rid of the burs on the shaft. I just need it to be able to get here and there. I can't take it out and take it apart right now

If I could I would have it rebuilt.
I also have to factor in that this car is not numbers matching
And basically worth maybe $4000
I can put that into and engine easy and the trans would cost half the cars value to have to have it rebuilt as opposed doingnit myself

I've got way more than $4000 already just by putting upgraded everything.

New fuel system and disc brake
Bucket seats and console win column as well as several other things and it hasn't added to the value. It's worth as much as a /6 car.

I do it for the passion of it. But I also have to facto in that even close to what I put in it I won't get back out of I ever have to sell it. If it was a 69 charger it would be different and anything that went in would raise the value

So I have to watch spending on it and do it right when I can for how much I drive the car.

Even though it has a lot of upgrades it still needs a lot of work. The engine needs to be rebuilt as the mains are shot as well

I could drop 15 grand to make a nice care and will do that just because I like it. But it won't return that probably ever being a non numbers car

The $90 converter should last and keep it on the road. What else can I put in there. All I saw were performance converters.

I won't ever see more than 300hp if that. I will redo the pump. The seal behind it is the leak. The face of the pump is dry but I will check again

I did find metal in the pan when I replaced the filter. It needs to be redone.
 
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It wasn't in my budget to buy high end stuff. If that converter lasts even 3000 miles.

It will last the life of the car with me driving it.

I've put a lot into it already just making it roadworthy and even running.

I will get rid of the burs on the shaft. I just need it to be able to get here and there. I can't take it out and take it apart right now

If I could I would have it rebuilt.
I also have to factor in that this car is not numbers matching
And basically worth maybe $4000

I've got way more than that in it by putting upgraded everything.

New fuel system and disc brake
Bucket seats and console win column as well as several other things and it hasn't added to the value. It's worth as much as a /6 car

I do it for the passion of it. But I also have to facto in that even close to what I put in it I won't get back out of I ever have to sell it. If it was a 69 charger it would be different and anything that went in would raise the value

So I have to watch spending on it and do it right when I can for how much I drive the car.

Even though it has a lot of upgrades it still needs a lot of work. The engine needs to be rebuilt as the mains are shot as well

I could drop 15 grand to make a nice care and will do that just because I like it. But it won't return that probably ever being a non numbers car

The $90 converter should last and keep it on the road. What else can I put in there. I won't ever see more than 300hp if that. I will redo the pump. The seal behind it is the leak. The face of the pump is dry but I will check again

That outer seal ring around the pump almost never leaks, and I would have to agree on the leak being from the crack.
That pump gets pretty warm and will dry the fluid on the face and still leave evidence at the bottom like you see.
You have a WAY better chance of it lasting awhile with a new pump bushing (3 bucks) and a new seal.
So with your labor and a 3 dollar bushing you have a good chance of it lasting without spending much at all.
I'll say it one more time.:D
You put that new converter in that bushing and you will trash that pump and converter both.
In fact, since the bushing centers the converter hub in the seal it may even leak like a sieve as soon as it gets put back together.
 
Not worn through, but that bushing is trash, and it's easy to tell by the converter hub.
If you put a new converter in that old bushing you will be buying another one.
At the very least it needs the pump disassembled and inspected and if the pump is ok a new bushing and seal.
Then the cooler lines need to be flushed (both directions) a new filter and fluid.
(AT THE VERY LEAST)



Through the pump, converter, cooler lines and into the pan at the very least.
And don't forget to flush out the cooler in the rad. It's a wonderful place for crud to accumulate and a lot of people seem to forget this area.
 
And don't forget to flush out the cooler in the rad. It's a wonderful place for crud to accumulate and a lot of people seem to forget this area.

I kind of assumed the radiator part when I mentioned cooler lines.
But yea.
 
I wouldn’t have checked the trans cooler. Now that you said that I’ll go ahead and flush it out from here in out.

I agree and would never put a new converter in with that busing. It would be like putting a new crank in with bad bearings. It would destroy the converter pretty quick.

But to get the bushing out...don’t i have to replace the seals anyway. I have to take out the pump.

Some time this fall. I’m going to take the engine back out and put in all new bearings and a cam. Maybe some other stuff like head work.

When I do that I’ll pull the trans and rebuild it. I priced it today at $800 on the bench to have it done.....or I can do it with a rebuild kit and the purchase of some tools. I need a dial indicator anyway.

I’m gonna ask......what is the best way to flush the trans and cooler to get all the crud just sitting in the corners without taking the cooler off the radiator.

I know the clutches are shot In This trans as well. They are probably original. I personally don’t know how stuff like this lasts as long as it does.
 
Let’s say I go on eBay and buy a transmission rebuild kit.

I saw this for $129
I’ve never been inside one of these but have a pretty good understanding as to how it’s built and operates.

I know if I don’t I’m going to run Into more problems fairly soon as far as the clutch packs go.

Is this something that requires a lot of special tools and a lot of extra parts. ......or is it something that is pretty straight forward.
Are there any specific things or special info that goes into them?

Should I even take the valve body apart?
What might be worn out besides clutch packs?
Is my input shaft even good enough to mess with this transmission? It’s scored some in that spot but it doesn’t look the the converter even sits on that. Looks more like it sits on the splines and bushing.

Will that kit take care of everything?
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Just looking to have to not do this twice. I’ve seen YouTube videos and they make the whole thing look very simple but that doesn’t mean it is.
 
I can get a pioneer trans rebuild kit from rock auto
Or a transtar rebuild kit from norther auto.

Both are deluxe kits.
Which one would be better?
 
I have used Transtar kits and was happy with them, but never used Pioneer before.
I use a solvent (or gas:D) by putting a 2 or so foot section of fuel line on my blower tip, then dip the hose and attach it to the cooler line and hit it with air.
This blows the solvent through those lines and cooler at a high speed so it breaks up the clumps and carries it out of the other line.
I'll alternate between lines a few times because the stuff that builds up in the cooler hides around corners and compacts there.
Blowing it both directions gets that junk that is hiding around corners.
 
Awesome ....im gonna do that.

I’m also looking at cheap bearings to replace the trashed ones.
I’ve found a complete set of cam, main, and rod,

At rock auto for $70
You know anything about them.
The ones I have are completely trashed due to the timing chain and valve stem seals going bad.

I’ve got them in the cart with the transmission kit.
As I said before....I just don’t drive the car much. I’ve got another engine that will get nicer stuff. I’d like to just sort of refresh this engine as well just to keep it alive. The bearings are pretty bad. I’m also running a hv oil pump just for the worn out factor. It’s off topic but if you know....

They are like $20 per set. I’m thinking it’s better than what’s in there and I don’t drive this car hard at all.
 
Anybody can say to chock a thing full of new parts. It's not their money. Or time. You want to take the pump out and take it apart just to change the bushing; it's your car. I myself would be more concerned with the clutches than that bushing. The edges of the bushing still look good to me. Bushings will get sharp distorted edges when they wear down very far because they usually melt a little bit; being soft metal; with a melting point half that of steel, but I see straight, fairly full edges on the bushing. Not perfect; no; there is some wear. If there's friction material in the pan then rebuild it. As long as you have oil pressure, the bushing won't hurt the new converter. Rule is: If you don't know for sure that your trans is to the full mark, then Shut It Off. (preferably in neutral so you can read the stick). Because low fluid level is what scuffed that converter.
 
That trans has been run low before I’m sure. I had to replace the shifter shaft seal and the kick down seal before it would hold the fluid. Whoever had it before me just kept putting fluid in there. I’m going to rebuild it. I did find clutch material in there when I replaced the seals.

Having a hard time finding all the parts to rebuild it.

The transtar kits seem to only go to 71 and has sub numbers. There are threads on this but they are all over the place.

The pioneer rebuild kit seems to have it all. Not sure where I’m going to get the sprag rollers yet.

I just want to make sure I get whatever is needed to do this and not have to worry about it again.

Transtar Super Deluxe Overhaul Kit for Chrysler TF6 (A904) 60-Up from Northern Auto Parts
Trans star

Pioneer Automotive 753036
Pioneer

And there is also one on rock auto.....
transmax
ATp
Pa cargo

I looked for 76 charger.
 
Nobody ever told you tu use the best stuff. You said that. Believe me, I'm the first person lookin for a low price. And sure, it's your money. Buy that 84 buck reman torque converter if you want to. All I was sayin is, do you want to patch it up and have to do it again in a year? Less? Or do you want to do it at least "right enough" so that it will last? Transmissions are WAY less forgiving than engines with metal fragments because of the valve body.

It's your project man. But remember, you came on here asking for help and opinions. All you other cats can blah blah blah about us spending his money, but HE ASKED.

Opinions vary. I gave mine just like everybody else. In the end, all I;m doing is trying to help the guy. You "could" take the pan and filter off the transmission and flush it thoroughly through both lines both ways and flush the cooler in the transmission too. That would get out a LOT of the metal particles and possible save it for very cheap. Whatever the price of flush is plus your time and labor.

In the end, it's up to the OP and no one else.

I wish you good luck.
 
I do appreciate the advice.. I didn’t see a converter do any higher that wasn’t performance.

They had b&m, tci, and some the we’re like $900
Apparently.....dacco closed. They were here in town but we’re bought out by transtar who doesn’t rebuild them.

If I don’t rebuild it. I’ll flush it by removing the filter.
Rusty....your advice is always welcome. You have a lot more experience in these cars than I do. I’ve not ventured I tot he transmission side of things before.

I’m in middle Tennessee. unfortunately it’s too far
 
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Transgo shift kits by --

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Transgo shift kiys-

What is the difference between these two kits.
They are both Transgo...

Just looking for something more firm.
 
There's nothing wrong with a cheap converter in a daily driver. But you want to cheap out on fixing it then want to buy a hundred dollar shift kit? Makes no sense. With the history of many leaks, the clutches are probably fried. With much material in the pan, take out the pump and front drums at least and make sure the clutches are at least good used. But these transmissions can take loads of contamination as long as you use a gauze filter, and not a metal screen. And your incorrect shifts are probably caused by clutch and band wear. Rebuild kits include lots of parts not necessary for what you want, but you should take it apart before you go buying anything; including a converter. For instance, you may or may not need steels. You might need hard parts. Don't assume anything without seeing everything.
 
The trans shifts well....never had a problem out of it at all.
The converter is totally shot....it’s cracked at the hub.

The shift kit I was looking isn’t much.....I was just thinking.
If I take this transmission out and take it all apart....
Why not add some firmer shifts to help it not wear as bad.

I am ok with the way it is now....but if I could add some extra while it’s out...why not.

The picture above was just an example. I’ve found that top kit for $50
And the bottom picture is $27

I just don’t know the difference. The one for $27 is the one I’m considering.

I have decided to go ahead and rebuild this thing for sure.

I’m gonna go ahead and order that pioneer kit and replace all of it.
......as far as I know. This transmission on my watch has never slipped. Can’t say before that but I did find clutch material.....Quite a bit of it.
 
I do appreciate the advice.. I didn’t see a converter do any higher that wasn’t performance.

They had b&m, tci, and some the we’re like $900
Apparently.....dacco closed. They were here in town but we’re bought out by transtar who doesn’t rebuild them.

If I don’t rebuild it. I’ll flush it by removing the filter.
Rusty....your advice is always welcome. You have a lot more experience in these cars than I do. I’ve not ventured I tot he transmission side of things before.

I’m in middle Tennessee. unfortunately it’s too far

@whitepunkonnitro is in the Murfreesboro area. Maybe send him a PM. He might can help you too. Tom Hand up there ^^^^ is a torqueflite legend genius. He's also offered to help. Give him a shout too.
 
I called transgo and what he said the difference was.
Was that the cheaper one is stock replacement with firmer shifting and fixes the some of inherent problems with the 904....
 
The big difference is that the cheap kits won't stay in the lower gears when you get up around 6k rpm; they go ahead and shift even when you're holding it in a lower gear. Most of the kits I see come with the cheapo cork/neoprene gasket...I remember when that was the new high tech..
 
Look at the condition of the hub. The hub is done, and the bushing that supports it is also gone. I doubt that you wore through the bushing, although you won't know until you take the old one out. Remember, the converter hub must be like a journal on a crank, baby-*** smooth, and the surface it rides on (pump bushing) must also be baby-*** smooth. The seal will be shot too. You bought all the right parts, pump gasket, pump o-ring, bolt seals, pump bushing and the front seal. Replace all of those parts, or you'll be yanking the transmission out again, and have to do the job all over again. Oh, and while you're at it, have a close inspection on the two tangs on the inner pump gear. They could be FUBARED also.
On a side note: I never, in almost 30 years in the transmission business, ever saw a re-builder replace the converter without replacing all those parts you've purchased, especially the pump bushing. Even if the old bushing "looked" good.
DO IT RIGHT - ONCE!!
Look at the condition of the hub. The hub is done, and the bushing that supports it is also gone. I doubt that you wore through the bushing, although you won't know until you take the old one out. Remember, the converter hub must be like a journal on a crank, baby-*** smooth, and the surface it rides on (pump bushing) must also be baby-*** smooth. The seal will be shot too. You bought all the right parts, pump gasket, pump o-ring, bolt seals, pump bushing and the front seal. Replace all of those parts, or you'll be yanking the transmission out again, and have to do the job all over again. Oh, and while you're at it, have a close inspection on the two tangs on the inner pump gear. They could be FUBARED also.
On a side note: I never, in almost 30 years in the transmission business, ever saw a re-builder replace the converter without replacing all those parts you've purchased, especially the pump bushing. Even if the old bushing "looked" good.
DO IT RIGHT - ONCE!!

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