Tomorrow I'll report back with the resultmagnet on a stick
Tomorrow I'll report back with the resultmagnet on a stick
Installed Green bearings from Dr Diff. He said to take out the thrust button.
I wonder if his axles are a tad shorter.....He told me I didn't have to remove it with the axles and green bearings I bought from him.
In the past I've always delt with Moser and never had to pull it out.
I wonder if his axles are a tad shorter.....
but there is a chance I have the new style?? Is there a positive visual difference that I can look tomorrow?no the difference is in the bearings old style vs new style
It's not a sure grip. It's a open unit. 2.76 741 castingIf it is a clutch type you might be able to rig up a small center punch to a long piece of pipe and drive the button off the roll pin. Then retrieve the buttons one in each axle tube with a magnet. If it is a cone type, forget it, the third member has to come out and the SG taken apart to remove the thrust unit.
I thought about pulling both axles and putting a film of red paint on the end and see by flashlight if they touch the button.Then you have two options. 1) remove the third member, remove the cross shaft and take the thrust block out. or 2) short one or both axles a little.
When I installed them, both axles went flush to the backing plate. I can test it the way you mentioned, that's a good way. I can have somebody hold one axle in by hand firmly against the backing plate, then I can push the other in and see if it reflects on the other.Just install one axle all the way in without nuts, slide the other one in and see if it pushes the first one out.
I wonder if his axles are a tad shorter.....
but there is a chance I have the new style?? Is there a positive visual difference that I can look tomorrow?
Agree, old style crimped.the old style has a crimped on 5 hole flange .
The need for non-adjustable wheel bearings
Most of these problems can be avoided by installing non-adjustable sealed ball “Green” wheel bearings. The name comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. The company has since been purchased by Bearing Technologies.
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.
First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).
In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.
Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.
Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.
I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.
yeah, I think the bearings should be ok, axles are not touching the thrust button. there the "button", looks like a sure grip one.You have the old style green bearings.
I don't remember the open carrier having anything but a pin for the small carrier gears. No block or button like a sure grip has. Imbwbidi