Inner spring removal advice

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Lil Demon

Lil Demon

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I am 99.9% done on my 340 install, basically lacking my break in oil and gasoline to fire it up. When I decided to revisit my Hughes solid camshaft instructions. I must’ve skipped the strong recommendation about removal of inner spring during break in. Pissed I didn’t do it but glad I read it prior to firing it up. I had never done a solid build so I’m glad I decided to double check. Anyways I need to remove the inner springs, it’s your typical shaft mounted LA setup. What tool do you guys recommend to make it as smooth and pain free as possible? I own my basic small spring removal tool but it always seems to struggle with high spring rates. Any recommendations appreciated.

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I've done it a few times, but not in a long time. The last few I did, I fired it off and got it above 3K and broke it in and everything turned out fine. But.........I don't recommend that to anyone simply because technically, that's not the right way. For on the head spring removal, I use one like this in the picture. You'll get some people saying to use the kind that hooks to the rocker shaft, but then you have to take the shaft off, take the rockers off and put the shaft back on. Screw that. This way, just take the shaft and rockers off lay them aside and have at it.

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Yup that’s exactly the tool I was referring too. Your approach makes sense. Yeah believe me I am tempted to run it as is.
 
I got a buddy who is a old school racer. Swears up and down to break in the cam as is. Not to remove inner springs. Say’s it’s the way he’s done it for 50+ years. I myself don’t have the balls!
:lol:
 
I have broke in many cams with the inner springs with no problems, You have to make sure the timing is good and the carb is full if fuel so it starts with minimal cranking. Turn the idle screw up so it starts and goes up to 2000 RPM or higher.
 
Believe me If you leave them in on break in you will round out the cam if it’s a Hughes. Also if you ever replace lifters down the road you better remove the inter springs and break it in again! Solid roller for me!
 
I have both types. The one RRR put a picture up and the comp shaft style that uses the OEM shaft. If you have spare shafts and hold downs, I would use the shaft style. If not use the one in post 2. It works really well, just slow. Either way you do know you have to air up the cylinder your working on first, right?
 
The type of compressor in post 2 does not compress the inner spring.
You will not enjoy it....... especially if it has fairly stout springs.

The type Comp sells with the dummy shaft is what you want.

As for whether you break the cam in with the inners removed or not...... I tell my customers....... if you try it without removing the inners...... and it eats the cam...... it’s just shame on you.
 
FWIW.... I use 300 lbs open pressure as a 'dividing line'; below that, not a worry to take anything out.
 
had the same consideration,do I or don't I.ended up removing them as the spring rate is pretty steep and didn't want to have it be my problem.I bought the lsm unit with adapter for small block mopar,expensive but didn't have to
fight or worry much about losing the keepers while hold the spring down
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Hell, some of these compressors cost as much as the cam. LOL
 
scampy said:
had the same consideration,do I or don't I.ended up removing them as the spring rate is pretty steep and didn't want to have it be my problem.I bought the lsm unit with adapter for small block mopar,expensive but didn't have to
fight or worry much about losing the keepers while hold the spring downView attachment 1715346203
Click to expand...
Where does this one bolt down to?
 
It's a 50/50 . I was having this conversation with the guys at Indy Cylinder Head and Russ stated it is not necessary to ever remove the inner spring. Who ya gonna believe ? Tough Call for sure.
 
I have not removed the inners on any of my three cams; Mopar 292/292/108, Hughes HE2430AL, and Hughes HE3037AL ; and never had a problem. Course like already said, the engines fired right up with all systems go.
And also of course; your results may vary...
 
Lil Demon said:
Yup that’s exactly the tool I was referring too. Your approach makes sense. Yeah believe me I am tempted to run it as is.
Click to expand...
Take all plugs out and put each piston up tdc and hook up compressed air... before removing that cylinders springs, incase you drop a valve down... with any luck...it wont come out of the guide that way.
Also... lay a towel across the drain back/push rod side of the head incase you drop the locks when removing them.
I'd have said to stuff towels in those drain backs... but too many have somehow pushed them in or forgot and then the old rag sucked to the pickup or rolled n ripped in the cam bla bla stories reemerge .

It's no sweat, takes about 5 or 6 beers time to do.
 
PRH said:
The type of compressor in post 2 does not compress the inner spring.
You will not enjoy it....... especially if it has fairly stout springs.

The type Comp sells with the dummy shaft is what you want.

As for whether you break the cam in with the inners removed or not...... I tell my customers....... if you try it without removing the inners...... and it eats the cam...... it’s just shame on you.
Click to expand...
Agree. This one works great and is much cheaper than Comp.
Proform Valve Spring Compressors 67460
 
Screw it. I think I’m gonna send it ( famous last words ) I just might take a calculated risk and just do it. I’m confident it will fire up immediately as they usually do, with fuel primed and timing advanced it should light quickly. Wish me luck if I don’t chicken out
 
I use the shaft mounted one and its a breeze. A telescoping magnet tool will help extract retainers. Stuff some rags in all the oil drainback holes so you cant drop anything down in the engine.
 
I made my own for changing springs in the car, I used a old rocker arm cut the end off welded on a piece of pipe, milled out the center and welded on a piece of square 3/4" tubing that was 1/2" ID and a ratchet fits perfect. Used a old shaft that was spaced up on the ends so it slides from one end to the other.

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If you have the valve covers off, use a marker pen to place a black mark on each pushrod. The rotate the engine by hand a few times and check to see if each one has rotated, even a bit. If so, then that is a good sign. If one or more does not rotate, then removing the inner spring will not save it.

Think about the level of pressure below which this is safe. Stock engines never had the inner spring removed... since there are none. Below some spring pressure level, things are fine to go with no further steps.
 
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