Liquid fart, in a crack

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moparmat2000

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Funny title i know, however i had about 20 tubes of old out of date aircraft seam sealant or (PRC) as we call it in the industry. It was keeping cool in my shop fridge. Son said this stuff smells like fart when you open the package. When mixed up it dries like hard rubber.

I got tired of leaves and dirt filling up the expansion slot between my garage slab, and driveway. Had to keep blowing it out with an air blower to remove the dirt and leaves. I finally blew out the crack for the last time, taped it off, and filled the crack with "liquid fart" peeled the tape, and viola instant rubber expansion joint. LoL.

20190608_154332.jpg
 
I worked in aircraft stores at American Trans Air back in the day. That may be the best use of PRC I've ever seen! And I can verify the smell.
 
Actually since its paintable, the best use for it is seam sealant on a car. Redoing the drip rail gutters on my sons 69 cuda, gonna use some brushable CS3204 A1/2 in there. But filling up a driveway crack is a close second.
 
I should try that in my driveway. We get millions of ants pouring out of those when I wash the car. I have a crack in my drip rail gutter too, looks like it shrunk when they IR dried my paint? @moparmat2000, PM me on the process or any tricks.
 
I should try that in my driveway. We get millions of ants pouring out of those when I wash the car. I have a crack in my drip rail gutter too, looks like it shrunk when they IR dried my paint? @moparmat2000, PM me on the process or any tricks.
**** is probably expensive, because its aircraft grade.
 
Its expensive if you have to buy it. They let me take the product to use that hits its expiration date, and i have to bring back the spent tubes to put in the waste drum at work because of the lot numbers on them so they dont end up in regular trash. Otherwise i can lose my hook up.
 
Its expensive, and i have to bring back the spent tubes to put in the waste drum at work because of the lot numbers on them so they dont end up in regular trash. Otherwise i can lose my hook up.
I hear ya. I took a lot of stuff home back in the day that would really be a big deal now.
 
I should try that in my driveway. We get millions of ants pouring out of those when I wash the car. I have a crack in my drip rail gutter too, looks like it shrunk when they IR dried my paint? @moparmat2000, PM me on the process or any tricks.
Go to the restoration thread for my sons car 67/68/69 cuda dilemma. I have pix of working on the drip rail in there. Will be putting the sealant in there tomorrow, and snapping pix to post.
 
I miss DevCon. Seems like it was the best epoxy ever. The stuff I can buy isn't the same as the aircraft grade.
 
Got a big ziplock bag full of spent tubes of liquid fart. Will dump em in the waste drum at work monday
 
Go to the restoration thread for my sons car 67/68/69 cuda dilemma. I have pix of working on the drip rail in there. Will be putting the sealant in there tomorrow, and snapping pix to post.
That stuff should be perfect for what you need it for.
 
Reminds me, we got some 2 part stuff in that "jack-off" jug (the plunger you stroke 70X to mix the 2 parts after you break the internal foil barrier) but it dries hard like plastic in 60 minutes. Its the color of the "post reply" button......use it to seal/pot the bottoms of underground splice terminals. Same cartridge...
jug.jpg
 
We got Devcon 60100. Its a liquidy jb weld. Also got araldite AV/HV 1258 like jb weld as well. Both great products.
 
Reminds me, we got some 2 part stuff in that "jack-off" jug (the plunger you stroke 70X to mix the 2 parts after you break the internal foil barrier) but it dries hard like plastic in 60 minutes. Its the color of the "post reply" button......use it to seal/pot the bottoms of underground splice terminals. Same cartridge...
View attachment 1715346862
Yep thats the ****. I use a cone type rotary file in my electric drill in the one end to turn the rod and drive the impeller in and out. Can mix it hot in about a minute w a drill. They make dedicated mixers the fit a drill you can get from www.yardstore.com
 
That pic of the 3204 A1/2 you showed has a work time of 30 minutes and is flowble. I will tape off the edges and brush it on the rain gutter with an acid brush, then peel the tape while its still wet.
 
Aeroshell 22 synthetic grease is great too. I have a couple outta date tubes of it handy. Great for lubing up window regulators. Stays consistant in high and low temps, and has no odor.
 
8802 B 1/2 fuel tank sealant. We use it all the time for our fuel cell repairs, potting electrical connectors etc. Cheaper if you buy in bulk. In our aviation business we have to adhere to "shelf life requirements" so we usually only buy what we need and keep any spares in the fridge until ready for use. The stuff has been around for ages. the B 1/2 means that it is brush-able application with a 1/2 hour pot life. In most cases (though not recommended) you can expose it to Av-gas or Jet-A (Kerosene) almost immediately after application. "Works good...lasts a long time." Flamemaster CS3204-B1-2-KIT AMS-S-8802 Type II Class B 1/2 Sealant
 
I had some fuel tank sealer at one time. Not sure where it got to. Had it to test adhesion, had a special jig made when applying it to fit on an Instron tester. I was going to use it for concrete seams.
 
It amazes me how much “stuff” is actually out there that the general public is not allowed to buy.
Nice post-
That concrete is now good to 30,000ft.
 
8802 B 1/2 fuel tank sealant. We use it all the time for our fuel cell repairs, potting electrical connectors etc. Cheaper if you buy in bulk. In our aviation business we have to adhere to "shelf life requirements" so we usually only buy what we need and keep any spares in the fridge until ready for use. The stuff has been around for ages. the B 1/2 means that it is brush-able application with a 1/2 hour pot life. In most cases (though not recommended) you can expose it to Av-gas or Jet-A (Kerosene) almost immediately after application. "Works good...lasts a long time." Flamemaster CS3204-B1-2-KIT AMS-S-8802 Type II Class B 1/2 Sealant

I will elaborate since i am an aircraft sheetmetal mechanic. The numbers 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, 12, 24 are pot life after mixing. 1/4 is 15 minutes, 1 is 1 hour etc. Heat speeds it up, cold slows it down. Then theres A,B,C types of sealant

A is very watery and brushable. Usually comes in 1/4 or 1/2 work times. The brush strokes you put in it smooth right out. (This makes a great external seam sealer for autobody seams).

B is thick ****. Comes in 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 work times. This is perfect as circlepilot said for fuel tanks and such. Can be brushed on, usually fits in a PRC tube caulking gun w a screw on tip to apply. In my line of work, we use the B for edge sealing or fillet repairs.

C is brushable and has a viscosity thats thicker than A but thinner than B. However C has 12 and 24 hour pot life. C is typically used between parts as a fay sealant. The 12 and 24 hour work lifes on this stuff allow for a large area repair to be installed and no worry about it drying up before the rivets are all installed. (I use C 12 for interior floorpan seam sealer).

The best way to use these products to have good looking results is to mask off where you are applying the product, apply it, and remove the masking tape while sealant is still wet. Also thoroughly mixing up the sealant so theres no streaks of ummixed material in it ensures it will dry.
 
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