MSD Disappointment ??

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Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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Sorry for the long post!

Well I’ve always used stock Electronic Ignitions with my Darts. My problem started with my 440 bored 30 over with 440 Source 500 stroker kit. Stealth heads Comp Cam Hydraulic XE295HL-10 . I don’t have all specs. In front of me right now but had figured if I am right to have 10:5 – 10:8 CR. I did not assemble this and do not know my deck measurement. Have 175PSI cold cranking comp. Problem was when warm cranks real hard killing the battery. So I switch to MSD-6AL With the Timing controller MSD-8680. Blaster coil and Stock Distributer (Was already using with stock ignition) Wired this all in correctly. Did a nice neat job soldered and shrink wrapped. Thought backing timing may solve this issue but did not. Been driving last fall. Drove this past week and when I drove home from work it felt like I had a miss. I pulled 1 wire at a time while idling from dizzy to see if all cylinders were firing and when I pulled #7 wire the car shut down like it was switched off. Now it won’t start. No power at coil when cranking...MSD light comes on when I 1st turn on key, timing controller goes to rev set point on tach. Which means its working correctly. Popped dist. cap and inspected. All looks good. Did not re-gap pick up but looked good. I still have to do the MSD troubleshoot test and get my teater to check Ignition key wires. Both brown and blue connected together to smaller Red wire. No Ballast resister.

Still need to try this and try spare coil.

CHECKING FOR SPARK If triggering the ignition with the White wire: 1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the “Off” position. 2. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and set the terminal approximately 1/2" from ground. 3. Disconnect the MSD White trigger wire from the distributor. 4. Turn the ignition to the On position. Do not crank the engine. 5. Tap the White wire to ground several times. Each time you pull the wire from ground, a spark should jump from the coil wire to ground. If spark is present, the ignition is working properly. If there is no spark skip to step 6. If triggering with the Magnetic Pickup: 1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the “Off” position. 2. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and set the terminal approximately 1/2" from ground. 3. Disconnect the MSD magnetic pickup wires from the distributor. 4. Turn the ignition to the On position. Do not crank the engine. 5. With a small jumper wire, short the MSD’s Green and Violet magnetic pickup wires together several times. Each time you break this short, a spark should jump from the coil wire to ground. If spark is present, the ignition is working properly. If there is no spark skip to step 6. 6. If there is no spark: A. Inspect all of the wiring. B. Substitute another coil and repeat the test. If there is now spark, the coil is at fault. C. If there is still no spark, check to make sure there are 12 volts on the small Red wire from the MSD when the key is in the On position. If 12 volts are not present, find another switched 12 volt source and repeat the test. D. If, after following the test procedures and inspecting all of the wiring, there is still no spark, the MSD Ignition is in need of repair. See the Warranty and Service section for information.


Just putting this out there in case someone been there.

One other thing. Car always fired right up with stock ignition. MSD the motor cranks a while before firing when it was working.
 
The only time I had an issue with an MSD was I didn't have 12volts in the START position. SO whenI did my testing under the hood it all tested out ok.

I've had a miss once, which was a bad plug wire that got burned by a header.

I'm a little surprised you bought a 6AL plus the timing start retard. The Digital 6 has both of those features built in
 
Guess I should of researched better. I wasn't aware of that. Wires look good but I will Ohm them out to be sure. Just frustrated. Spent a lot of time and money. Hope the Box is good and something simple but that's not how my luck runs lol.
 
One thing I would try is do a resistance check thru the pick up. While checking move the wires inside the distributor to see if the wires are broken causing an open in the circuit. The removing of #7 wire and it dying is baffling though.
 
Test the box as stated grounding the white wire. I would also check the polarity of the magnetic pickup. Sounds like it may be reversed. An MSD box is not going to fix a motor that cranks hard when heat soaked.
 
An MSD box is not going to fix a motor that cranks hard when heat soaked.
I thought with the manual timing controller it would help. I would be surprised if Dizzzy polarity it reversed as I have been driving about 4-5 years now .
 
Test the box as stated grounding the white wire. I would also check the polarity of the magnetic pickup. Sounds like it may be reversed. An MSD box is not going to fix a motor that cranks hard when heat soaked.

A 20 degree start retard will. (which comes in the digital boxes or can be add on to any box)
 
A 20 degree start retard will. (which comes in the digital boxes or can be add on to any box)
I should of added if it was a mechanical issue such as improper bore clearance on the bore, tight bearing clearance, etc. Cranking hard enough to kill a battery in a short period is not normal.
 
Well I thought I would update this. I sent the box in 3 months past warranty with a diagram of install and issues I was having prior to failure. To my surprise they repaired at no cost . Thanks MSD !
 
The old school racers would put the ignition system on a toggle switch, spin the engine over and then light the fire. It takes the ignition during cranking out of the equation.
 
The old school racers would put the ignition system on a toggle switch, spin the engine over and then light the fire. It takes the ignition during cranking out of the equation.
That is how I start my car.
I installed a separate ignition switch so I can kill the box on start up so I can first prime up the oiling system on cold starts.
The switch is hidden so it doubles as a anti theft device.
 
Check the box and make sure it's ok. And then never ever pull a plug wire off the plug with the engine running again.

This is not a points ignition and it's damn hard on the electronics to do what you did. There are better ways (although slower) to find a dead hole that won't hurt the ignition.

Also, you should have been able to recurve the distributor to make it start correctly.

You don't have anywhere near enough CR or anything else to require a start retard or anything trick.
 
never ever pull a plug wire off the plug with the engine running .

^^THIS^^ NEVER pull plug wires off electronic ignition of any kind!!! You can "kill" the electronics. If you want to see whether one cylinder is not firing, you can such as this:

Loosen the dist boots and rig a thin grounding probe with a wire to ground. Using insulated pliers (plastic) pull the wire somewhat out of the dist tower and then slip the ground probe down in so the spark has a path to ground

The "open" plug wire you pulled is sort of like lightning. It causes tremendous open circuit high voltage which feeds back from the coil back into the box.
 
Check the box and make sure it's ok. And then never ever pull a plug wire off the plug with the engine running again.

This is not a points ignition and it's damn hard on the electronics to do what you did. There are better ways (although slower) to find a dead hole that won't hurt the ignition.

Also, you should have been able to recurve the distributor to make it start correctly.

You don't have anywhere near enough CR or anything else to require a start retard or anything trick.

I did Re-curve the dizzy as best to my abilities when running the motor runs awesome. The motor has always had this hard cranking issue. I used a 440 source starter. I read from another member that he had the same issues until he switched from the 440 source starter. I will do this 1st thing in the spring as I can't even start it now. If this doesn't work I will have to check engine as something may be getting to tight when warm but where it won't crank over I'm hoping it's a starter issue. I just want a stock Mini starter. What Model year starter is the bigger one? 1998 Durango ?
 
I did Re-curve the dizzy as best to my abilities when running the motor runs awesome. The motor has always had this hard cranking issue. I used a 440 source starter. I read from another member that he had the same issues until he switched from the 440 source starter. I will do this 1st thing in the spring as I can't even start it now. If this doesn't work I will have to check engine as something may be getting to tight when warm but where it won't crank over I'm hoping it's a starter issue. I just want a stock Mini starter. What Model year starter is the bigger one? 1998 Durango ?


It sounds to me like you are pulling too much timing at cranking speeds. You should be using enough spring to keep the advance mechanism from moving before 800 RPM.

Almost sounds like you are pulling timing at cranking speeds.
 
It sounds to me like you are pulling too much timing at cranking speeds. You should be using enough spring to keep the advance mechanism from moving before 800 RPM.

Almost sounds like you are pulling timing at cranking speeds.

What speed? It barely turns over. When I re curved it I used a light spring from (Mr Gasket ) kit? Left the lighter of the two stock springs alone. My timing is set at 8' BTDC total at 36' I don't use the vac can as it causes detonation? Street car but ran a 11.7 1/4 mile on Nostalia Day last year with it with a 323 gear found out when I got home the secondaries were only opening 3/4 of the way. turns out I was missing the small bracket that holds the cable back an inch that I have since fixed.
But I value your opinion and will look into that as well .
 
What speed? It barely turns over. When I re curved it I used a light spring from (Mr Gasket ) kit? Left the lighter of the two stock springs alone. My timing is set at 8' BTDC total at 36' I don't use the vac can as it causes detonation? Street car but ran a 11.7 1/4 mile on Nostalia Day last year with it with a 323 gear found out when I got home the secondaries were only opening 3/4 of the way. turns out I was missing the small bracket that holds the cable back an inch that I have since fixed.
But I value your opinion and will look into that as well .
Bingo - your initial timing is 8 BTDC.
Should be more like 18 BTDC.
 
I bought one of those fancy aftermarket starters and it worked great for about 6 months till it didn't..
Took the advice of a member who says I don't take his advice LOL and went down to the Pick-n-Pull and pulled a started out of a 90s Ram truck will the 360...
I paid $21 for it and it was so greasy and nasty I couldn't believe they didn't pay me to take it away LOL.. I put it on my bench and sprayed it down with WD-40 and wiped it with paper towels.. I repeat that three times till I had it clean and Shining like new.. it completely solved my slow starting battery killing problems and gives quick dependable starts every time.... 11.3;1 with 210lb cranking...
$21... I'd start there... My..2..
 
Bingo - your initial timing is 8 BTDC.
Should be more like 18 BTDC.

I would normally agree. However, in his original post, he says he's over 10:1 and has 175 PSI cranking pressure. That engine is NOT going to want 18* initial.
 
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