340 block with NO main caps

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cpearce

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A local guy is selling a 70 340 block that he believes is .020 over. Block has been sitting outside in elements and has no main caps with it. Is this even worth looking at? Price is very little, I dont need a door stop though. Im assuming another set of 340 caps be easily matched with a line bore???
 
just get new ones and get it line bored... prob has other issues however.. be careful
 
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sn digits are ub355127 according to seller. I took a chance and bought it sight unseen. Deal is, when I see it if it is junk I have no obligation.
 
Not expecting a diagnosis from photos, just thought I'd share with group.
 
Thats gonna cost you a bunch to even make it useable, if it even is useable. Installing and line honing a set of mains for it out by me costs about $400 to have done. Then the bores are still corroded to ****. I dunno, maybe $80 a hole to bore and hone em. That brings it up to what now $1,040. What about the lifter bores, cam bearing bores, decking, hot tanking etc. Hopefully it hasnt sat rusting because of a scored bore or crack in the block now hidden and covered with rust. Yeah 340s are cool, but not that cool. That thing is a boat anchor.
 
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My expectations on this are very low. It may end up as a very cool base for a table.
 
Back in the day people would leave blocks outside and even bury them for "seasoning". I have fixed worse...
 
Bury them for seasoning ??? WTF kinda backwoods **** is that. I have heard of running the potential build engine as your tow rig engine for a season or 2 of hot and cold cycling to stiffen it up to prevent or lessen core shift letting the block take a set. Then pull it and machine it. Never heard to bury one. Thats some backwoods **** right there. Does nothing to "season" the block. Just costs you more in machining costs.
 
Bury them for seasoning ??? WTF kinda backwoods **** is that. I have heard of running the potential build engine as your tow rig engine for a season or 2 of hot and cold cycling to stiffen it up to prevent or lessen core shift letting the block take a set. Then pull it and machine it. Never heard to bury one. Thats some backwoods **** right there. Does nothing to "season" the block. Just costs you more in machining costs.

You must be a young-un, happened all the time back in the day and I am only 61...
 
You must be a young-un, happened all the time back in the day and I am only 61...
Still shaking my head at that one. What the hell is burying it in dirt gonna do besides rust the **** out of it. Thats some backwoods medicine man type ****.
 
That block will clean up. I've done way worse.

FABO member has complete sets of main caps for sale right here. They are 4 bolt caps, but you just cut off the outer bolts and run them.

I'd buy those long before I tried to find a set of used caps and screw with that. Then you need to get it line bored.

There is nothing there that bothers me for 50 bucks. You're going to need to bore anything you buy. And you SHOULD deck the block, but some guys are just too cheap.
 
My friend had a block that looked just like that one. The machine shop media blasted it, tanked it, bored/honed it, honed the lifter bores, decked it, etc and it turned out great. It won't cost much extra, I think he paid $100 for the media blast. Everything else it needs is pretty standard in a good rebuild.

Hopefully it isn't cracked! But even that can be fixed sometimes.
 
we used to bury blocks for a yr or so and let them cycle thru the seasons.
I also lived in the Calf High desert, where nothing would rust, ever! because there was never any rain/moisture...so it was ideal for such things.
It does season them, and removes any future core shift concerns. A quick clean up was all that was normally needed.
Sorry, but that block the OP is showing is going to need alot more than that, its been exposed to the elements, not buried for seasoning. big difference....cost in VS value out - simply isnt there, less you own your own machine shop.
 
The guy should be gut shot for separating the caps from the block and letting it sit. It must be junk.
 
It hits between known 'groups' of assigned VINs for what I have recorded so far. It could be from a Challenger or Duster, but definitely not from a Cuda - if it does say 0B 355127?

If you can get a photo of the partial VIN when you get to look at it that would be great.
 
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