340 block with NO main caps

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I've cleaned up worse. Most shops now line hone instead of bore. If you can find a competent shop, what they will do is bolt the caps on and position the hone to barely skim the block side, so as not to affect the crankshaft placement so you will not have to run a shorter timing chain. I always make that clear to the shop that's how I want one done and have never had an issue. They have always been accommodating.Good luck with it. If it turns out useable, you did pretty good!
 
But seriously did anyone ever bury one or just let them sit outside for seasoning.
 
But seriously did anyone ever bury one or just let them sit outside for seasoning.

Yeah. The Petty boys did that to all of them back in the 50s and early 60s. At least that's what Richard and Maurice have written in the past.
 
Yeah. The Petty boys did that to all of them back in the 50s and early 60s. At least that's what Richard and Maurice have written in the past.


I could see bury in a sand pile but real good old Earth?
 
as yr said
do not try and fool with matching up stock caps
use aftermarket caps and Line bore
this is not a job for a hone as hone will take too much out of the block
you could put 360 caps on it (if bolts are same distance apart- I think they are- give me a heads up if not) and use a 360 "stroker" crank" or even a 4" crank
I do not remember MOPAR but with (insert bad word here) we would put smaller caps on 400's and 350's and use a spacer in the block to run small bearing 283-327 crank
lots of ways to make this work
 
But seriously did anyone ever bury one or just let them sit outside for seasoning.

The reasons I heard once; a long time ago; had to do with the conversion of the iron to iron oxide and bringing out the carbon and improving strength........that is the legend and lore as I once heard it
 
The reasons I heard once; a long time ago; had to do with the conversion of the iron to iron oxide and bringing out the carbon and improving strength........that is the legend and lore as I once heard it

Complete and utter tripe. Don't tell DART --they only sell thousands of new cast blocks every year. No DART is not like a winery where they have a cellar full of blocks that have been seasoned. This just gave me an idea--I have some rusty Mopar blocks I will charge MORE because they are all rusty and **** errr I mean seasoned and stronger! J.Rob
 
When I was buying and selling early Hemis I bought a '56 354 that had been buried in a manure pile in the 50's in an old barn in southern Wisconsin.

The guy told me his Dad wrecked his 300C a few months after he bought it...loved the motor so he kept it.

When I got it the manure was a nice pile if black dirt with that Hemi sticking out the top.

Yes I fixed it.
 
View attachment 1715347649 View attachment 1715347650 View attachment 1715347651 View attachment 1715347652 View attachment 1715347653 sn digits are ub355127 according to seller. I took a chance and bought it sight unseen. Deal is, when I see it if it is junk I have no obligation.

That is not going to be easy to recover at least not in my eyes. I would probably charge something in the neighbourhood of $1600-$2000 k to make that block serviceable to my standards. That block is going to be heavily pitted in critical areas like the lifter bores and cylinders. Main caps are the least of your worries-even 318 caps would work. J.Rob
 
Love that thought of the winery... soon they will judge blocks after their vintage... how many years it was buried it what kinda earth... some earth is better than the other you know.
And don't forget to dig up the block after a couple months and turn it. LOL
 
Is it even worth $50 as scrap iron ?
About $4 at our local scrap yard LOL....

Check out the lifter bores, OP, to see how bad the rust is. I needs to be honed out and if they hone too big to get them all cleaned up, then you have potential oil pressure problems.

Still shaking my head at that one. What the hell is burying it in dirt gonna do besides rust the **** out of it. Thats some backwoods medicine man type ****.
Harley used to set their engine blocks outdoor in the weather for 2 years to 'season' them as standard practice; stress relieving them and allowed them to 'relax' to their final shape after casting but before machininng. I remember driving by the yard outside their factory near Milwaukee many years ago and seeing that... but they did not bury them. Maybe only cast iron gets buried LOL
 
In the 70s we would leave blocks laying out in the back yard to season them in el paso tx. Chebys more so than Mopars. We never buried them tho.
As for missing main caps. Forget using used caps and 360 caps will not work on a 273-340 block.
Get new caps and have it align bored then they align hone it for the finish.
Expect it to cost $750 or more just to fix this part of the block.
I would for sure mag it and sonic check it before putting the money into it for caps.
All you younger types need to do more research into what works and what doesn't. lol
 
No need to bury them. The temperature change is what "seasons" the metal. The bigger the extremes the better. Faster to do in a heat treat oven and cryro chamber. Common practice for straight edges, parallels, and other precision machine alignment tools made from cast iron. There are all kinds of stresses built up in a casting and temp change can cause crap to move, a lot more than you would think. For 98% of applications, the tolerance stack up compensates for the variance.
 
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No need to bury them. The temperature change is what "seasons" the metal. The bigger the extremes the better. Faster to do in a heat treat oven and cryro chamber. Common practice for straight edges, parallels, and other precicion machine alignment tools made from cast iron. There are all kinds of stresses built up in a casting and temp change can cause crap to move, a lot more than you would think. For 98% of applications, the tolerance stack up compensates for the variance.

Another thing we used to do was pack axles in dry ice and bury them in the backyard. Old time "Cryrogenics" treatment now but state of the art back then.
 
If you want to make a stock block stronger, clean out the casting flash, and smooth out sharp edges. Thats where some of the stress risers are.
 
Love that thought of the winery... soon they will judge blocks after their vintage... how many years it was buried it what kinda earth... some earth is better than the other you know.
And don't forget to dig up the block after a couple months and turn it. LOL

Rolls Royce let them sit on pallets in a field in between machining processes. Its documented. Iron does move, shift, right after casting on top of temp expd/contr .
For how long? Maybe all the metallurgists here can give their educated opinions.
:popcorn:
 
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