318 timing chain.....and why the engine should come out.

I definitely don’t want to pull it back apart. ....but really it isn’t too bad of a job. Took two hours to get it out....and that was taking my time and in a dirty oil covered environment. Put it on the stand and it comes apart very quick, but I’ve done it several times so it’s easier than it used to be

I talked to the machine shop guy today. Mopar guy as well

He told me that based on how much I drive it and what I’m doing. That I should just put the original parts back in and not mess with anything else. He told me to not home it with the original rings in there....which I wouldn’t.

He told me that with new cast iron rings with a hone would conform pretty quickly but wouldn’t be worth messing with. He told me that it would be better than what I have now but since I wasn’t going all out, then I shouldn’t even worry about it.

Said the original rings should be put back in close to the same way they came out and will rotate until they get to the sweet spot where they usually live in that horse shoe shape of wear.

As for the bearings. Since I’m not doing the crank. He said that the aluminum bearings will not conform to the crank very well and that I should run the tri metal that will create a wear patter out of the soft Babbitt.

When I told him I had already bought aluminum bearings he said that they would wear down the crank and the bearing....but for my driving habits it would also be fine as I just don’t drive it much. I asked him if it would spin the bearing....no.....it just wears quick on both ends.....Also said it would be even with all this wear......that it would be better than what was in there and that these engines were really meant to go 150k and be done.

He said that when I do the other 318 I should consider a 340 as the machine work cost the same as well as that I can put better technology bearings and rings In There to make it last a long time....less spring pressure on the rings with softer materials that leave the cross hatch on the bore.

He did say that the oil in these older engines did need to be changed regularly due to the harder materials and the amount of wear in the older stuff.

I kept my oil changed but it got black pretty quick......we all saw what was in there so that’s no surprise.
With a really clean engine....which it is now very very clean. I’ll pay attention to the oil as well as change it every year or 3k

..................

So I’m just gonna put the pistons back in....
Run the aluminum bearings ......
And rev the hell out of it......
Do a compression test.....
Keep the oil checked.....
And run it

Just kidding about the revving part.

I’ll report back and let you know if anything catastrophic come of this or how it all goes...

I’m totally well aware of how half assed this is and what the outcome could be but I think it will be good to go and better than when I found it. We will see

Also.....I have a line on a HE268 cam and lifters.....so tempted together this and run it. The price is right but i dont an e a stall or gears. I think the spec are 218/218@50
A nice 3.55 gear might go well with this with a 2500 stall or a 4 speed....but there goes highway driving.

And the range is 1500-5500......

It’s tempting