318 timing chain.....and why the engine should come out.

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i don’t know why that’s so blurry...I turned to erase it and put a smaller picture in. Should have just sent the damn link

Summit Racing® Classic Cam and Lifter Kits SUM-K6900


All of this makes me want to build the 68 block and do it right....except I don’t have a car to put it in and I already have too many cars for the space I have.

Why are you even lookin at that? All that is, is an Edelbrock Performer copy. It's barely above stock. You need a little more than that, even in a 318, IMO.
 
X2 what rusty said
Edelbrock sells that cam because there's lots of profit in it
because it is almost backyard installer foolproof and it's available from Elgin cheaper
let's take a look at it
advertised duration is at SAE or with 1.5 rockers .004 278 intake and 288 exhaust
compared to the 268 @.006 comp xe268 it is still more seat duration
yet gives even less lift = 421-444 and area under the curve -
compare with the stock 340 cam (which has even longer ramps down .004 and below especially on the lobe close side)
compare with the 256 voodoo
now also look at the 10 degree extra exhaust- which you only need with stock heads without headers
remember this is a small block chevy cam as is the Comp XE 256, 260, 268 most all below the 274HL
It rev's good even with weak valve springs as it was designed 50 years ago when valve springs were not as good as today-
but it just does not breath as well as a modern profile
here's another thread
Thoughts on Voodoo 10230701 cam? | For B Bodies Only Classic ...
www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/...
I contacted Lunati for a suggestion on a cam to match my current engine components. I believe I have a lifter problem and hate the cam I have now (Edelbrock Performer RPM I think). Here is Lunati's suggestion and specs. Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet 10230701 (that's big block)
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh):256/262 @.006
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/220
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.475

BIG difference in dynamic compression
check out bullet and Howards also, Jim at Racer Brown some have closer LCA than the 112 (if you need any more LCA)
no secret that I like Mike Jones version- it is real gentle on the open and close - has less real seat to seat- but then really gets with the program
but pricey and longer lead time
 
I’m not looking at it. I’m trying to understand why the torque is high but the duration is high.

If an268 is too much......

Why wouldn’t that one be overkill.

It would seem like that range would be a 256
Not a 278
 
I’m not looking at it. I’m trying to understand why the torque is high but the duration is high.

If an268 is too much......

Why wouldn’t that one be overkill.

It would seem like that range would be a 256
Not a 278

You're confusing advertised duration with .050". Stop. Stop it now. LOL
 
I’m not looking at it. I’m trying to understand why the torque is high but the duration is high.

If an268 is too much......

Why wouldn’t that one be overkill.

It would seem like that range would be a 256
Not a 278
Because it is advertising ...... And you truly have to understand that there are VERY subjective interpretations of what is 'good low end torque' on the parts of users. The typical low compression 318 is already at the margin of low RPM torque and it is not hard to sned it 'over the edge'. IMHO, your interpretation is right.

There is also the problem of what these slow ramp cams do for lift as they are closing and approaching .006" lift (or 'almost' closed), where he advertised duration number is usually measured. If the profile closes rapidly from the .050" lift number on the intake side and quickly get down to, say, a .010" lift and then slooowwly close to .006" and smaller, then they are going to act like a smaller duration cam. We never get the details of that unless we buy one and measure the lobe profile ourselves.
 
What NM said
I've done cam doc on 340, comp 268xe. MP 260
The 268xe has the more radical lobes but uses only the chevy portion of the lifter it HAS to have more duration to get the lift it gets
The Mopar Performance 260 uses more of the lobe and is actually more gentle than the comp cam even if it is bigger
the 340 cam has VERY long ramps and is not near as aggressive as the MP cam (which is not at all aggressive compared to todays cams) it is a passenger car cam, warranties and quiet even after high miles and all that)
I'm trying to remember but the 340 cam is a (IMHO) a 280-290 class duration cam
the "260" is at around .008 lift and it gets really long as the tje closes
The Jones 256 or say Howard's or Bullett's 256 versions will outperform any of the above
maybe not rev quite as high but the others are out of breath up there anyway
The Jones is the shortest seat to seat- say at .002- of any of the above and has 50% more duration at .275 than the DC260
 
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Damn.....just when you think your getting a grasp in this stuff....

You learn that you don’t know a damn thing.

Short ramps.....Chevy grinds.

Mopar performance differences..

I was set on the xe262.

The main reason was that it had a good bump in performance with the nice idle sound.
I listened to the 250 stuff and it sounded stock. While this car is mainly for grocery getting. I still like that tad bit of aggression from it. So the 250 anything is out.

Which leaves the 260.....to what??
265 range.

I don’t want to change the 2.76:1 gears because I already hate the high rev on the highway.

Dont want tUp the compression....not right now anyway. I like 87 pump gas

And run a dead stock converter......which would be converted to a Manual if more power were added.

So I’m really looking for something right on the edge of the biggest I can get with that. I figured it was low 260.

However....finding a good used cam limits that.
Because realistically I don’t need something new.....
 
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2.76 gears
87 pump gas
put in a new pump and lock up converter next time you do the trans
so find a used 256 lunati voodoo and change your mufflers
much bigger cam than stock
if you want it to lope lower your idle speed
I won't tell :)
 
I ended up totally removing the transmission and completely inspecting it. It needs clutch packs and the front pump bushing. Other than that it’s in pretty good shape but was about to lose the direct drum gears. So I’m working on that. It’s completely apart right now.

The engine is as well. I had to get a cam bearing installer to replace the cam bearings. I’m going to polish the cam and crank lightly with 400 grit just to smooth it some for the new bearings.

I did get rid of all that casting in the entire block. It’s all smooth and the oil return in the lifter galleys were opened up some. The oval drains are now perfect.

I cleaned the block really well as well as the oil passages with gun brushes.

So that leads me to another question.......I have all the parts for a decent build. Except the cam.

I’ve got the carb, intake, headers, ported heads, roller timing chain, dual exhaust...the cam is missing. What I’ve thought of since this is a hack job refresh is getting a mid 70s 360 cam......a 252......it’s better than the 240 I’m running now and I can get it stupid cheap from a yard if I can find one. The mufflers I have are flowmaster 40s or 70s or something like that

I’d prefer a cam in the 260 range but that might not be in the cards. I want it to have a nice idle sound but not at the cost of all the low end we’ve talked about.
 
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I tell you man, if you want to make it easy, just pick any of the smaller Lunati VooDoo grinds and call it a day. Smaller than the 268. That would be a tad big for what you're doing, but I think most any of the rest would work well. You could just close your eyes and pick one out and you'd be golden.
 
you can grab a 999 core and get 5 clutch drum and dbl rap reverse band etc
you do not really need it but it will wear longer even if you do not need the holding power
I needed the double wrap band due to backing up long steep driveway knocking out small band
use atf 4+
do what Rusty Rat said which is basically the same s I posted above
 
The end play on the trans was .051 with the tail shaft housing on and all the parts back in and snugged down.
 
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