8.8 swap questions

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Here is the perches I found.

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About a week, right? :poke:
With me its impossible to know Haha it depends on how long it takes me to finish one job to the next . I plan on finishing the engine bay get it painted before I start on the rear. I still havent got the block to the machinist I am supposed to do that this week. I dont know how long it will take to get it back. The plan was to have the engine bay and rear done before the engine so when get the engine back I can drop it straight in and reassemble the suspension. I did not plan on it taking this long to get it to the machinist. I was hoping to have it back by April. My work schedule is killing my progress. This week (or two I should say) I only have 1 day off. I work 6 off one work 5. 12 hours shifts dont leave me much time to do anything else but work sleep and eat.
 
With me its impossible to know Haha it depends on how long it takes me to finish one job to the next . I plan on finishing the engine bay get it painted before I start on the rear. I still havent got the block to the machinist I am supposed to do that this week. I dont know how long it will take to get it back. The plan was to have the engine bay and rear done before the engine so when get the engine back I can drop it straight in and reassemble the suspension. I did not plan on it taking this long to get it to the machinist. I was hoping to have it back by April. My work schedule is killing my progress. This week (or two I should say) I only have 1 day off. I work 6 off one work 5. 12 hours shifts dont leave me much time to do anything else but work sleep and eat.
Yeah I know, damn food and housing and s*** getting in the way of our hobbies. LOL
 
I will see how what time frame between rear end going in to engine going in is? I dont want to cut the driveshaft before I can match it up to the engine and I dont want to keep your tool to long Haha
Pffft. It's been hanging on the wall since it cut the axle tube. LOL
 
I'm having a hard time finding the correct flange yoke that will accept the 1330 joint. If someone knows a part number I would greatly appreciate it! This is the one I keep finding it takes a 1310 joint.

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Use a bastard joint? I have an extra at the house but im not anywhere near the house to get you the #. Sorry
 
If I remember right, the centering holes in the MP perches are the wrong size. I think they're 5/8 and the Mopar springs have a 1/2 centering pin. I think that's right. So make sure you get the perches with the correct centering holes for the leaf springs.
 
That flange looks like the right one but without the rear to measure off I cant say just by sight.
 
If I remember right, the centering holes in the MP perches are the wrong size. I think they're 5/8 and the Mopar springs have a 1/2 centering pin. I think that's right. So make sure you get the perches with the correct centering holes for the leaf springs.
Good to know thanks. I will measure my spring when I take it all apart and make sure I get the right perches. I wish I had the money to go ahead and order new leaf springs while I have it apart it would be much easier to do it while the rear is out instead of having to take it all back apart again. With the cost of the paint and the engine build and the rear end rebuild oh and I haven't even started on the transmission... I don't think I will be able to afford new leafs right now. I want to scrap my stupid shackles and get the correct ones with soom HD SS springs
 
I'm having a hard time finding the correct flange yoke that will accept the 1330 joint. If someone knows a part number I would greatly appreciate it! This is the one I keep finding it takes a 1310 joint.

View attachment 1715350232

since you probably are going to freshen the 8.8 ,,why not install a regular pinion yoke on the 8.8 -- they are available for the 1330 u-joint -- (or even the 1350 u-joint )-- they were used on 1983-96 Bronco's ,1983-2009 F150's ,, etc. or you can buy a new one from Yukon Gear ($114.00 at Summit ) or for the best price from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for $44.00 -
the perches you show are for 3 inch axles tubes ( Explorer has 3.25 tubes ) but could be opened up to fit -- or check Summit/Jegs for 3.25 axle tube perches
 
since you probably are going to freshen the 8.8 ,,why not install a regular pinion yoke on the 8.8 -- they are available for the 1330 u-joint -- (or even the 1350 u-joint )-- they were used on 1983-96 Bronco's ,1983-2009 F150's ,, etc. or you can buy a new one from Yukon Gear ($114.00 at Summit ) or for the best price from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for $44.00 -
the perches you show are for 3 inch axles tubes ( Explorer has 3.25 tubes ) but could be opened up to fit -- or check Summit/Jegs for 3.25 axle tube perches
Agreed. I'd go with the bigger yoke if buying one anyway. Unless someone drops a free-be on ya. I like that $44 option for daily driver power levels.
 
Has anybody already asked why not just cut the perches off the original rearend? Something else I do is make up a 2x4 jig that goes up and over the center so that the two perch surfaces are parallel.
 
Be mindful of the locator pin size and the height of the perches. I bought the mopar ones and cut them off cause the locator hole was to big, the Moroso’s are perfect. I have a build thread here. 67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear

View attachment 1715350404View attachment 1715350407

The stock 3/8 oil pump pickup is the correct size to make adapters for the center hole. Cut a couple of pieces about 1/2 inch long, tap them in the center hole and weld them on the back side. You can also use nuts. Weld them into the hole then drill them to size.
 
since you probably are going to freshen the 8.8 ,,why not install a regular pinion yoke on the 8.8 -- they are available for the 1330 u-joint -- (or even the 1350 u-joint )-- they were used on 1983-96 Bronco's ,1983-2009 F150's ,, etc. or you can buy a new one from Yukon Gear ($114.00 at Summit ) or for the best price from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for $44.00 -
the perches you show are for 3 inch axles tubes ( Explorer has 3.25 tubes ) but could be opened up to fit -- or check Summit/Jegs for 3.25 axle tube perches
I have thought about that but the price of the pinion yoke vs the flange is a pretty big difference. Also I have no intention of removing the pinion and getting into all of that I'm pulling the carrier and shortening the tube and reassemble.
 
I have thought about that but the price of the pinion yoke vs the flange is a pretty big difference. Also I have no intention of removing the pinion and getting into all of that I'm pulling the carrier and shortening the tube and reassemble.
Oh my bad. I didn't realize he was talking about swapping the flange out. Yeah, don't do that.
Shorten it, check the brakes, change the oil. That's what I did.
Crap, I forgot to measure the flange bolt circle. Going back out to the shop in a minute. I'll get it.
 
Ok so most of my questions have been answered thank you guys. I'm gonna start as soon as I finish the engine bay. (Hopefully in a couple weeks) I only have 1 day off in the next 12 days (12 hour shifts) so I'm not sure how much work I am gonna be able to get done. But hopefully I can get some sanding done in between shifts and on my one day off spray some epoxy primer!
@67/6barracuda where did you wind up with your pinion angle? Iv seen where you had to cut off and start over in your thread.
 
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