dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Good idea because when I get tired and frustrated i always break ****!
Enough with the research...
- Thread starter RSie
- Start date
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Yep, even If it's broken, keep for reference until replaced.
Exactly... add beer and and it multiplies
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Yea exactly!! I dont drink anymore but I remember one time when I did a simple PCV replacement turned into a full valve cover tear down lol. I was inebriated and tired and got frustrated trying to remove the old one and I broke it off and it fell down into the inside of the valve cover. So I had to remove the valve cover to remove all the broken plastic. The next day of course! LolExactly... add beer and and it multiplies
I agree. That said, I'm not worried about keeping the metric head, half an inch too long course thread screw mashed into the fender-bumper spot. Wasn't even close to being tight.
I don't drink any more. That said, I don't drink any less.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I am having a real problem with this. I disassembled mine almost 15 years ago and am just recently starting on it again so in the last 15 bags have gotten ripped, lost, dumped out, the marker has gotten rubbed off etc. Stuff is really hard to figure out where it goes back 15 years later. I have lost stuff that I literally just had lol. I had the fender well splash shields I took them off when I removed the suspension last summer now I'm prepping for paint I was gonna clean them up and paint them too but they are gone cant find them. So I'm either gonna have to find some or do without.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Lol let me rephrase that. I dont consume no alcohol at all anymore. Haha just water coffee and tea. Ah and mountain dew lol.I don't drink any more. That said, I don't drink any less.
I wans't referring to you.. was to me
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I know lolI wans't referring to you.. was to me
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Moredoors use the same structural parts as a coupe such as framerails, crossmembers etc. Find a solid one thats rough but not rusted out for parts. I posted a thread on how to easily drill spotwelds to pull this stuff apart easily and correctly.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Also take a lot of pictures to archive before pulling assemblies apart. Picture is worth 1,000 words.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
RSie, Read this article i wrote on spotweld removal. Trust me, It will help you a lot !!
Thanks for the info. I already have the complete inner clip (torsion support to rad support and inner fenders) from a '74 more door I parted out last summer. I learned a great deal about how these cars are put together, and got pretty good with spot weld cutters. I'll take a look at your post, might be some good ideas in it. Thanks!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Take a lot of measurements before pulling it all apart. Remember that K frame has shouldered bolts and fits "exactly" if the rails are off even 1/16" the bolts wont fit. I would recommend making bracing or a jig that fits the pieces together off the original front clip before pulling it apart. Stiffer the better. Welded metal tubing would be the best.
Best bet when fitting those rails and front clip is to temp bolt that K frame to the rails, then temp weld a brace out of 2" square tube steel across the framerails behind the K frame then remove the K frame prior to installing the front stub to get some weight back off it. Temp hold it together w self tapping screws to make sure its all aligned correctly including the external sheetmetal before taking a torch to it and welding it up.
Best bet when fitting those rails and front clip is to temp bolt that K frame to the rails, then temp weld a brace out of 2" square tube steel across the framerails behind the K frame then remove the K frame prior to installing the front stub to get some weight back off it. Temp hold it together w self tapping screws to make sure its all aligned correctly including the external sheetmetal before taking a torch to it and welding it up.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Also clean all the rust out of all the flanges and overlaps, and apply weld thru primer to both mating surfaces. I use 3M weld thru ll. Works great, is expensive but worth it.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Torsion bar support overlaps the rocker panels with tabs. You wont be able to shove that all under there as an assembly. You will have to fit the torsion cross member under there going thru the top with the floor trimmed away. Once in place then you can fit the front stub in.
The drivers rocker is junk. I plan on notching that, forward an inch or two ahead of where it's supposed to be. Wrangle the passenger side in first, slide the drivers side tabs up through the notches, and then back to where it should be. The floor is out on the drivers side, and I'll probably do the pass side to, it's a little soft. After I get the torsion and fenders welded on, I'm replacing the drivers rocker.
Do you think that will work?
Emptied it out.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
You can change front whole floor pan out as one piece. Take passenger and drivers door off, column out, roll quarter windows down, it drops right in. No point in splicing pans in. Job comes out ok, but not as good as a full pan replacement. And when you add the costs of the seperate pans, and the time consumed for a bunch of non stock seams its not worth it.
I've thought about that, and I just might. I do have a new pan that came laying in the drivers side (not welded in, and under the carpet...)
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Did it on my 67 coupe, and will do this on my sons 69 coupe. Prices for 4 floor patch pans, and fixing butchered tunnel, the time and cost, and non stock seams was not worth it almost cost as much as a full floor in $$$s, and waaaay more in labor.
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