Best way to flush engine after rocker arm failure?

-
RustyRatRod said:
If I had to "GUESS" I would say that somehow the shaft didn't tighten down all the way. How does the other side look?
Click to expand...

Both side were loose.

My thoughts are a combination of errors
The use of the ARP bolts and the high valve spring pressure (option 2, solid roller pressures).

Even with the bolts torqued to the spec, and the spring pressure being high. The ones that were the looses were the ones in the middle. These are the stand that the oil flows to the shafts.
With the ARP bolts being so smooth and the spring pressure high, they were just being pushed out.

Going to get TR's shaft stud kit
 
As to how to flush it, there's no way except to completely disassemble it, clean it like it just came from the machine shop (oil passages, etc.), and reassemble.
We lost a cam in our race car years ago and did this. It's a lot of work, but it beats always wondering if you got it all. A lot cheaper than building a new one.
Good luck with the problem, I'm no help there, but I agree with others, find out why they backed off.
 
I don't get what you're saying. "Pushed out". How could they have been pushed out and the threads still good? I think you need to do a little more investigating.
 
read what PRH has to say again
we just had this conversation on trans pan bolts/ water pump bolts etc
no clamp with grade 8 bolts and if you torque to grad 8 specs you warp and squeeze gaskets
you can use hourglass bolts but why?
we used them most on the out row of head bolts on SBC to get even clamp
 
Jomar makes and sells a 100% no bypass oil filter to keep any debris carried by non-filtered oil from being pumped through the motor. It's all I use on my 2 Mopars. Their filter saved my bottom end when I had valve train carnage a few years back.

If you inspect the oil return areas directly under the damaged parts, you will be able to determine how much metal was dropped by the parts as they failed.

You can remove the intake and check the valley as well. If you see stuff down there, pull the pan and clean it too.
 
@Steven190 here we go
IMG_20190616_091526847.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't get what you're saying. "Pushed out". How could they have been pushed out and the threads still good? I think you need to do a little more investigating.
Click to expand...

My grandson was helping me and he watched as I rotated the engine and torqued the bolts 4 times.
I agree about, my mistake, that I used the ARP bolts, They were not the correct for this application.
I am going to use the TR studs.
My only thinking is the ARP bolts are very hard and smooth finished. They did not stretch and the finish does not have enough friction to create resistance in this application.
 
Last time....... “friction” doesn’t keep bolts tight...... tension does.

A bolt is a spring, and it has to have enough tension to overcome the loads placed upon it, or you will get separation of the joint, and it will come loose.

Just google bolt stretch...... there’s piles of info about it.
 
Steven190 said:
Thanks, I am wondering if lifting the front of the engine a little will give you enough room to remove the pan?
Click to expand...
Maybe. I didn't try as how the car was situated gave me almost no room to be able to lift. I would try anything before notching, you might get lucky.
 
Do you run a kevco pan? If so I can get mine out by raising the motor and slipping 7/8” sockets between the motor mounts and k frame. I also have to remove the distributor cap because it touches the firewall. Be careful of the fan shroud if yours is close. All that said I would probably pull it and go through it. You could drop the pan and pull a rod cap. Look at the bearing then decide. As to the original issue, i think you have that sorted.
 
I have been looking at pulling the pan. I see that I have to remove the headers too. They are in the way. I have the fan and shroud off now and distributor cap and wires. I got a oil pump at O Reilly's.
What a mess. Looks like this season is done.
 
Steven190 said:
I have been looking at pulling the pan. I see that I have to remove the headers too. They are in the way. I have the fan and shroud off now and distributor cap and wires. I got a oil pump at O Reilly's.
What a mess. Looks like this season is done.
Click to expand...
Sorry stock exhaust here
 
Just a thought, how deep are the threads and are they dry?
 
I would pull it and bottle brush it. It’s a PITA to get the pan on and not have it leak while in the car. It would always bug me and a spun bearing can take out so many expensive parts. Hurts now, but could really hurt later. The hardest thing for me is removing the hood!
 
Did you ever get this sorted out? Grade 8 bolts hold my Harland Sharps down onto Trick Flow heads. Brian @ IMM set my stuff up and looking at some of his builds, he will sometimes use studs to hold the shafts down, and sometimes he’ll use bolts like he did mine. I don’t know why the change up?

FAF68C35-2E55-4F1D-9F03-AE0D4C53C7C3.png
 
Once things are back together it might not be a bad idea to do a test run with the valve covers off and some makeshift splash shields to keep oil from dripping down the outside of the heads. Run it at idle and give it some light revs, hold it at 2500 RPM or so for a while, and watch the rocker shafts bolts closely. Also once fully torqued and before running the engine mark the bolt heads with a paint pen so it's very easy to see if any start turning.

If they still come loose, maybe try safety wire...
Kidding of course LOL
 
The rocker shaft bolt holes in the SB TF are pretty deep.
Deeper than what you’d get for thread engagement from a typical bolt or stud.
The hole is about 1-5/8” deep, and I’d want to have the fastener get as far down into that material as possible(to help support the stand).
I’d get some grade 8 threaded rod and cut it into pieces the correct length to end up with a couple of threads showing on top, above the hardened washer and grade 8 nut, after having it basically bottomed out in the hole.

One of my least favorite things about the “bolt on” aftermarket heads for the SB Mopar, when using a cam that requires fairly stout springs are the 5/16” rocker shaft attaching bolts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top