Manual to power steer question

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dart6

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I want to change my 68 dart to p/s. Do i need to change the whole column
 
No, Borgeson box and add there u-joint kit, I just had to cut a 1" or so off of mine and drill it for the pins. easy peasy
 
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If your doing a 73+ conversion I have a new gearbox and pitman arm send me a PM if you are interested.
 
Old school method is defeat the sheer pins in the collapsible column shaft to shorten it a little. Change the box coupling from the manual box shaft size/fit to the power box shaft size/fit.
 
I swapped my 69 Dart and it depends on how you do it and what you feel is right. The proper way is to swap the column with an PS one, or at least swap the steering shaft especially if you need to rebuild the column anyway. If you run headers, you may run into issues with the steering coupler hitting the tube. There are several remedies for this situation and I opted for a Flaming River B-Body drop in column. It fits the A-Body with out issues other than you need to shorten the D Shaft as the B-Body is longer. You can remove and cut it.

For PS pump run a Saginaw and use the CVF brackets, they raise the pump up and allow the pressure line to clear the K-Frame.

Are you wanting to run a stock box?

I have a manual trans so my point of view is from not having to deal with a column shifter if you have one.

Chrysler Small Block Power Steering Bracket (318, 340 & 360)
 
Old school method is defeat the sheer pins in the collapsible column shaft to shorten it a little. Change the box coupling from the manual box shaft size/fit to the power box shaft size/fit.
I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?
 
I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?
The collapsible shaft is two pieces, solid shaft inside a tubular shaft. There are plastic pins though both that would shear in collision. So defeat the pins to shorten the shaft reduces how far it could collapse in a collision. Defeat the pins to extend the shaft reduces how far the two pieces are engaged. I've never been this route so I can't say how far the two pieces are originally engaged or if giving up a portion of that would be a problem.
Your best route is the power to manual adapter from aftermarket. There is more than one vendor/source with considerable price differences. The adapter solves both length and box coupling differences.
 
I have saw thise adaptors most of the ones iv seen are north of 100 bucks I was hoping to get around buying one.
 
I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?
Is your car column shift? I might have a column shift manual steering column. Do you have a factory manual box? It's easy to do it with the stock parts if you have them.
 
Is your car column shift? I might have a column shift manual steering column. Do you have a factory manual box? It's easy to do it with the stock parts if you have them.
Yes it's a original column shift that I converted to a floor shift. I probably cant afford the whole column but PM a price.
Yes I have a manual gearbox it is originally a power steering car I'm converting to manual.
 
Is your manual box for the 73 and up A body? Otherwise the pitman arm will be different. Yours should have the stud facing down rather than up
 
Is your manual box for the 73 and up A body? Otherwise the pitman arm will be different. Yours should have the stud facing down rather than up
Yep got that covered I bought the 73 and up pitman arm for the manual box!
 
I have a 70 dart manual steering column with the coupler. You do need the manual coupler because the geared hole size is different between the manual and the power steering. This was from a column shifted manual steering car, it is a pullout and not cleaned at all. The column shift units are not as pricey as floor shift columns. It has the key mechanism in it and would bolt in and work. I could bring that to you for $80.

I have a dirty manual FLOOR SHIFT column (the pricey ones) with the manual coupler. It also has the key and would work in your 75. Since it's not cleaned up I could deliver it for $125.

PM me and I'll get some pics.
 
I have saw thise adaptors most of the ones iv seen are north of 100 bucks I was hoping to get around buying one.
So if you lengthened the shaft you have you would still need the correct box coupling and maybe a rebuild kit for it and maybe the aftermarkets formed wire cap retainer for it.
A parts wanted add for the power steering to manual steering shaft adapter might produce a used one or link to the lowest priced one.
Even with the adapter you should consider rebuilding your OEM box coupling while you're there.
 
I have the coupler covered also I bought a new u joint style one.

Screenshot_20190618-085311_eBay.jpg
 
there is no linear movement in a universal joint. If you/re going with that, maybe just disassemble the column, drill out the sheer pins, separate the steering shaft, and add some grease so linear movement will be there. I honestly don't know how much our unibody flexes, how much linear movement happens.
 
there is no linear movement in a universal joint. If you/re going with that, maybe just disassemble the column, drill out the sheer pins, separate the steering shaft, and add some grease so linear movement will be there. I honestly don't know how much our unibody flexes, how much linear movement happens.
Thanks that's a good point . I hadn't thought of that. Do you know of anywhere on here that has broke down photos of the column?
 
No, Borgeson box and add there u-joint kit, I just had to cut a 1" or so off of mine and drill it for the pins. easy peasy
Yes i would go with the borgenson box. Can you be a bit more specific about cutting the shaft. Would cutting it still still retain the collapsible feature
 
I swapped my 69 Dart and it depends on how you do it and what you feel is right. The proper way is to swap the column with an PS one, or at least swap the steering shaft especially if you need to rebuild the column anyway. If you run headers, you may run into issues with the steering coupler hitting the tube. There are several remedies for this situation and I opted for a Flaming River B-Body drop in column. It fits the A-Body with out issues other than you need to shorten the D Shaft as the B-Body is longer. You can remove and cut it.

For PS pump run a Saginaw and use the CVF brackets, they raise the pump up and allow the pressure line to clear the K-Frame.

Are you wanting to run a stock box?

I have a manual trans so my point of view is from not having to deal with a column shifter if you have one.

Chrysler Small Block Power Steering Bracket (318, 340 & 360)
 
Cheers for the link. The previous owner rebuilt the front end but was unable to do an alignment.
My 70 H code with manual steering is not really an issue so i'll try this route and see how it works out.
I'll start another thread to get specs
 
Im not sure what you are referring to with the collapsible feature, i used the below coupler with the borgeson box and had to cut about a inch off my column. I also installed a sealed bearing in the bottom of the column in place of the rubber seal, I found that mode on another thread on the site. Super tight steering with this set up.



Mopar Steering Coupler

image.jpg

Detailed Image
Mopar steering universal joint / vibration reducer in steel. Couples stock Mopar steering columns to Borgeson Mopar power conversion box. Stock column must be cut and shortened for installation. Includes drill bit and roll pins for installation.
Part # 036425
Weight 2.00 lbs
 
The collapsible shaft is two pieces, solid shaft inside a tubular shaft. There are plastic pins though both that would shear in collision. So defeat the pins to shorten the shaft reduces how far it could collapse in a collision. Defeat the pins to extend the shaft reduces how far the two pieces are engaged. I've never been this route so I can't say how far the two pieces are originally engaged or if giving up a portion of that would be a problem.
Your best route is the power to manual adapter from aftermarket. There is more than one vendor/source with considerable price differences. The adapter solves both length and box coupling differences.
A408Cuda this post refers to it
 
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