question on Ignition

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Dennis Gerard

Dennis Gerard

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1968 Barracuda with newer engine in it like 72? I'd like to get rid of the ballast resistors, as they keep going bad. 318 engine 2 bbl. Is the a Dizzy I can buy some like a 2 wire one that will work with out all the mopar electronics ?
 
Johnny Mac said:
Either of these are simple 12v, 1 wire hookup. Delete the ecu box and the ballast.

PRO SERIES READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

Have run them both on my cars. Sold tons. Pretty easy !!

Make sure to get a good coil too.
IGNITION COIL | CANISTER ROUND OIL-FILLED | 45K VOLT | FEMALE SOCKET | INCLUDING MOUNTING KIT | BLACK
Click to expand...
Great info Johnny. If you delete the ballast you need a ignition system that runs on a 12 volt input.
 
My car has it's OE ballast resister 52 years and 316,000 miles. Something must have been changed along the way.
 
toolmanmike said:
Great info Johnny. If you delete the ballast you need a ignition system that runs on a 12 volt input.
Click to expand...
You'd probably know better than me what 2 wires can be tied together for the 12v in crank, and run. Blue and brown maybe?

Or...a simple toggle switch. Whichever someone prefers.
 
DB9EFF37-8C6E-40A2-94A6-B872619AB5FE.png
Dennis Gerard said:
what do you mean relay?[/QUOTE
Click to expand...

Tie the ballast wires (from the key) together (ballast now eliminated). Wire them to pin 86 on a relay. Pin 85 is grounded. Now the ignition turns the relay on and off.

Pick up 12v from solenoid stud. Wire that to pin 30. The wire left from the ballast which feeds the ignition goes to pin 87.

This setup gives you good solid power to the ignition system.
 
I can't imagine what would cause repeating ballast resistor failure.
If you're going to upgrade... install a relay. It can and should supply full 12 volts to ignition system, charging system, and electric choke too if present. The load through ignition switch, resistance in OEM current path, etc.. no longer concerns. The OEM wiring was minimally adequate for the 36 amp closed field alternator and accessories when it was brand new.
HEI ignition system and other modern electronics at one end, 60+ amp isolated field alternator at other end, aren't the upgrades they could be without a adequate current path between them. Relay creates a new and more direct path.
 
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