Checklist for body and paint shop

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DartSwinger451

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san antonio tx
Okay. I've resigned myself to take my 72 Dart in to have the paint and body work done. I have completely stripped the car of all trim and removed front and rear glass. Interior is out except for dash frame and steering column.

I am not looking for show quality by any means. I am thinking an epoxy prime and lower end basecoat/clear coat (ie Nason).

I am seeking input on your experiences with having this type of work done. Questions to ask the shop, what to look for in their responses, any guidance would be welcome. I plan on getting 3 estimates from local shops. All advice welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
Out here the average body shop make their money on insurance jobs not one-off custom paint jobs and body work. Some will not do a job like yours feeling that there is not enough money in it. If they will do it, question how long have been in business, what prep work they plan on doing, what kind of paint they will use (single stage, two stage?), what warranty. How long will the work take? Be easy here, it may take a little time as other cars may be first. Are they a member of the local Better Business Bureau? If you can find a shop that paints older cars often, then you are doing better. Can you see examples of their work or talk to other happy customers? Good luck.
 
One thing I would do if I was taking it for paint is strip the outside sheet metal with paint remover to bare metal. Tape shut all the seames so not to get remover on jams and edges.

Brush on the remover and scrape with new razor blades. When most all the paint is removed re-wet it with remover and steel wool the panel using paint remover until clean. Removing the paint will insure you find all previous repaires. Sand all edges to clean paint off of what was taped. Then go over the body and find all the damage you see and circle them ,picture them, and number them for reference.

I use black spray on powder and go over the car with a large sanding board/block. This will show every small dent to circle for the shop repairs

This give you the cleanest looking job when finished and brings out the lines that are hidden with layers of paint. I am not repainting the jams on this one except the trunk edge when painting the car.

Strip the paint and don't trust what is there . The grinder marks you see in the metal were under the original paint/primer. Paint remover will also remove body fillers with several coats. If you chip the blade throw it out and get another. Cheap harbor freight are junk, Blades should say Made in USA. I used a half of box to do this car.

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NEVER SAND A CAR TO BARE METAL!! it will warp panels very easy and you usually end up with a lot of bullseyes that will need to be feather edged in. DA sanders destroy nice cars if you don't know what you are doing. Sure you can fill things in with primer an block sand. That is just a band-aid that eventually will show through.

I cover all grinder marks or areas blasted as seen on this body with self etch primer. It has an acid in it to stop rust and promotes adhesion. You know , Those rust spots that show up in the middle of a panel for no reason but for not being prepped properly.

The first question I would have for a shop is what is your first step on prepping for paint. If he says sand the car, Then walk away. Good luck. After this car was stripped with paint remover all the lower rockers. quarters and engine compartment were blasted for removing rust spots from chips in the paint.

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You mention that you are not looking for show quality, so I assume you are not looking to strip the old paint. Just a heads-up, many shops will not guarantee the job unless the old paint is removed. The different chemistry between the new and old paint causes problems. Lower cost paint jobs like an Earl Shreib $400 job don't care because they only guarantee the job for a year. Many members including myself have many horror stories about body shops, you do right in getting some input first.
 
I would check with the local SA Mopar club, they are in the puter I am sure. They will be able to send you to the right places for estimates and discussion. There are local members on FABO from SA, but their handles escape me.
LIke aid, be careful of ever going to an insurance shop. Usually not a good idea!!
I use 80 grit on a Da but yes you have to be sure not to worp metal. I hate stripper! Evreyone and every shop has a different way. I admit I am NO bodyman!!!
 
I totally agree with Murry.
You've done the right thing so far, by taking your car apart before you drag it to a body shop... they'll loose less parts that way.
However, I would encourage you to take out the dash pad and any other non metal surface, to save you the anguish of cleaning them once you get your baby back.
Keeping your radar up for a bunch of insurance jobs is great advise too.. You WILL get pushed to the rear when a new insurance job comes in. They're good money for the shops, and you'll have to ride them like a circus pony to get them back on task.
Good luck ! and let us see it when you get it back :)
 
Go on puter and look up san Antonio mopar club, a good group of active guys, they have a nice show in sept I believe. I bet some guys theer can give some suggestions for a good shop. Let us know what you find!!
 
I would check with the local SA Mopar club, they are in the puter I am sure. They will be able to send you to the right places for estimates and discussion. There are local members on FABO from SA, but their handles escape me.
LIke aid, be careful of ever going to an insurance shop. Usually not a good idea!!
I use 80 grit on a Da but yes you have to be sure not to worp metal. I hate stripper! Evreyone and every shop has a different way. I admit I am NO bodyman!!!

I hate the smell and the burn of stripper. It is much cheaper than sanding. When you sand a whole car you have to sand it sevaral times. You are not going to get a nicer job on the exterior metal then paint stripper.

Two gal. of stripper
Tape
paint brush
box of blades
Steel wool
and a son that will do it.
 
Make sure to keep track of your fender/data plate.
You want it painted with the car but it is small and is often put in a "safe place", then forgotten/lost.


Alan
 
Thanks to all for some excellent suggestions. I have located one shop that that specializes in older cars, hot rods and such. I will try to find a couple more.

I will reach out to the local mopar club as well.

I hate chemical paint stripper but I might go that route as well (I have more time than money).
Any other ideas are welcome as well.
Thanks again!!
 
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