1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

-
Haha I feel you. I hate it too. I was sandblasting and grinding and sanding and scraping and scrubbing on mine the other day. The whole time I was thinking my God I will be glad when this is over and I can start on mechanical work! Then I thought...this is just the engine bay!! I gotta do the whole dang car eventually.. ugh! Haha
 
That ain't no hill for a stepper! YOU are a stepper!!

People always forget these cars are how many decades old? I see guys everyday buy a project that was body/paint done 15-20 years ago and they do not realize it has been worked on before. They think it came factory that way. Not to mention fender bender when the car was relatively young.
At least you did not find pop rivots and screen wire. That car ain't bad!
 
That ain't no hill for a stepper! YOU are a stepper!!

People always forget these cars are how many decades old? I see guys everyday buy a project that was body/paint done 15-20 years ago and they do not realize it has been worked on before. They think it came factory that way. Not to mention fender bender when the car was relatively young.
At least you did not find pop rivots and screen wire. That car ain't bad!

Oh I can do it. I'm not worried there. I just didn't want to have to. LOL I mean I didn't expect a sand it down and spray but I was sorta hopin for no cuttin and weldin.

Maybe I should start a new thread. "64 Valiant get cuttin and weldin" LOL Naw, this little car is still really solid......I know I'm gonna find more on the bottom of the quarters.....and I'll ***** about that too, but in the end I'll get it right.
 
Ok, so I took another little break, but it's time to get back on it. This is what I'll be doing "in the next couple days". You can see the right rear bottom window corner. Nice, clean, not boogered up at all. And the left. Well, what's to say? "It needs work". Some people would just fix that split and smooth over it with filler. I caint do that. It's missing the last "about" 1 1/2" of that "corner" where the body comes into the window opening transition. So, I gotta "make that" and weld it in. I've looked at it and the best thing to do is go ahead, bite the bullet and remove the rear glass. I hope I have better luck with this one. I'm hoping doing this "small job" will pump me up for the "rest". LOL

RIGHT REAR CORNER.jpg


LEFT REAR CORNER.jpg
 
The back glass should be tempered glass, where the front windshield was laminated safety glass. Usually, the tempered glass is a little more forgiving. Sometimes the work you gotta do to GET to where you can work, is worse than the job you're trying to accomplish! Maybe once you unzip the lock strip, and lay the lube to it, it will push out ok.
 
The back glass should be tempered glass, where the front windshield was laminated safety glass. Usually, the tempered glass is a little more forgiving. Sometimes the work you gotta do to GET to where you can work, is worse than the job you're trying to accomplish! Maybe once you unzip the lock strip, and lay the lube to it, it will push out ok.

Well, I am gonna unzip the lock strip, then get inside and cut the inner lip OFF the gasket. I didn't do that on the front like a dumbass. Once the inner lip is off, the glass should all but fall out.

But here's the kicker with tempered glass.......especially OLD tempered glass. Dat chit'll break just lookin at it wrong. I pulled the back glass out of a 63 Dart I had and put it in the spare bedroom. Bout a week later, we hear this kinda "BOOM" sound in the back of the house. Yup. THe back glass just gave it up. There it was on the floor in a million pieces. All I did was gently lay it on the floor leaning up against the wall in about the same position it was in the car. Pissed me OFF.
 
I guarantee it pissed you off, cause I know the feeling! I was taking the glass out of my 70 340 Challenger that I’ve owned since 1979, and had it all out but the windshield. I have one of those L shaped cutters to cut the glue in goop for those type windows. I started on the windshield and was being careful as humanly possible. I got it cut all the way around to the top drivers side corner, and had already hollered for Susan to come help me lift it out. I was 3 inches from finishing the cut, when POP......and a crack ran down the window! Madder’n a ****!!!!
 
I guarantee it pissed you off, cause I know the feeling! I was taking the glass out of my 70 340 Challenger that I’ve owned since 1979, and had it all out but the windshield. I have one of those L shaped cutters to cut the glue in goop for those type windows. I started on the windshield and was being careful as humanly possible. I got it cut all the way around to the top drivers side corner, and had already hollered for Susan to come help me lift it out. I was 3 inches from finishing the cut, when POP......and a crack ran down the window! Madder’n a ****!!!!

Man and a Challenger windshield too. As if those parts aren't already high enough. Well, to my surprise, we got the back glass out in one piece. I have a friend's 71 C/10 over doing some engine work and he happened to drop by. He and kitty helped from the outside while I cut the gasket loose from the inside. Teamwork prevailed. Now if it will just STAY unbroken, we'll be doing good.
 
OK, I got back at it this mornin. Couldn't sleep.....again so why waste car workin on time, right? Made my "corner end" patch. Ground all that stupid lead filler out. Found more rust. Cut the bad out. Welded the little split up above the patch. Welded the patch corner in and welded a few holes up under it. Ground it all smoth for now. Gotta make some more patches for the window channel. Fun fun. But I'm "gittin it did".

LEFT BOTTOM PATCH.jpg

LEFT BOTTOM PATCH WELDED.jpg
 
Did you try that Dominion seam sealer in the drip rails yet? I'm going to do mine this weekend.
 
Did you try that Dominion seam sealer in the drip rails yet? I'm going to do mine this weekend.

Oh yeah. They've been long done now. I'll get some pics when I get back out there. It worked good.
 
Aight den. Here is the preliminary patch all welded in. Lemmie tell you, with al those panels comin together in that corner! DANGIT! What a time I had makin all those complex curves and bends. More grinding to do of course and then a small amount of filler to get it perfect.

LEFT BOTTOM PATCH WELDED1.jpg
 
Aight den. Here is the preliminary patch all welded in. Lemmie tell you, with al those panels comin together in that corner! DANGIT! What a time I had makin all those complex curves and bends. More grinding to do of course and then a small amount of filler to get it perfect.

View attachment 1715356245
216 @ 050 are for sissies??? I thought I "manned up" with 204 @ 050 :D
 
A little flap disc grinding, seal it, filler, it will be good as new.

This thread is great! The "never tried stuff guys" will see it all and say, " If RRR can do it, we can do it!!" Really, FABO has so much info and inspiration, maybe the best kept secret in the old car hobby ( GM sites included!!)
Now, back to lunch!
 
A little flap disc grinding, seal it, filler, it will be good as new.

This thread is great! The "never tried stuff guys" will see it all and say, " If RRR can do it, we can do it!!" Really, FABO has so much info and inspiration, maybe the best kept secret in the old car hobby ( GM sites included!!)
Now, back to lunch!

I appreciate that, but lemmie tell you that corner really tried my patience. There are actually several small patches in there. That's just "how I had to do it". Just look at that bottom rail where the back glass sits. Not only is it curved, but it's got a vertical, then horizontal and back to vertical, ALL WHILE "goin around" the turn and into the pillar. I had several other pieces tacked in, only to get pissed off because they weren't good enough. I actually think I can get this dead perfect though with some more finish grinding and filler. It basically looks "just like" the other side now.
 
I enoy watching a MotorTrend program ( NO I don't stream) that shows guys fabing those curves and compound curves, but they have all the tools, English wheel, etc and they know how to use them, I would not have a clue. There is a simple thing called a sandbag which is a leather bag full of sand , and it is useful to pound in a curve. I ave used them yars ago making bit and spur parts (trim).
I understand what you are saying. I fabed the metal around the wheel openings for a 64 and 5 Dart, and 62 Lancer < one side, I bought a piece off a bone car for the other side!!!!! \
I watched an English guy on TV yesterday, building an aluminum body make a compound curve heat it with a rose bud looking deal and bend it like you would not believe.
 
I enoy watching a MotorTrend program ( NO I don't stream) that shows guys fabing those curves and compound curves, but they have all the tools, English wheel, etc and they know how to use them, I would not have a clue. There is a simple thing called a sandbag which is a leather bag full of sand , and it is useful to pound in a curve. I ave used them yars ago making bit and spur parts (trim).
I understand what you are saying. I fabed the metal around the wheel openings for a 64 and 5 Dart, and 62 Lancer < one side, I bought a piece off a bone car for the other side!!!!! \
I watched an English guy on TV yesterday, building an aluminum body make a compound curve heat it with a rose bud looking deal and bend it like you would not believe.

I used my bench vise, vise grips and regular pliers. The largest patch was about 4" long. I bent the two 90* bends first, sectioned it in 4 places with the whiz wheel, then pressed it against the bottom pinch weld and molded it into the shape of that curve. Tacked it on and welded up the whiz wheel slots. I worked on it probably about 20-30 minutes at the time and then left it be a while. I cannot just keep at it. I don't have the patience, so I have to do it in steps.
 
I appreciate that, but lemmie tell you that corner really tried my patience. There are actually several small patches in there. That's just "how I had to do it". Just look at that bottom rail where the back glass sits. Not only is it curved, but it's got a vertical, then horizontal and back to vertical, ALL WHILE "goin around" the turn and into the pillar. I had several other pieces tacked in, only to get pissed off because they weren't good enough. I actually think I can get this dead perfect though with some more finish grinding and filler. It basically looks "just like" the other side now.

Good Job
Getting some good strength back into that critical corner of the the Unitized Body . . .
 
Good Job
Getting some good strength back into that critical corner of the the Unitized Body . . .

Thanks. It's been a job for sure so far, but I am on the downhill side of it now.......at least THIS part. lol
 
I enoy watching a MotorTrend program ( NO I don't stream) that shows guys fabing those curves and compound curves, but they have all the tools, English wheel, etc and they know how to use them, I would not have a clue. There is a simple thing called a sandbag which is a leather bag full of sand , and it is useful to pound in a curve. I ave used them yars ago making bit and spur parts (trim).
I understand what you are saying. I fabed the metal around the wheel openings for a 64 and 5 Dart, and 62 Lancer < one side, I bought a piece off a bone car for the other side!!!!! \
I watched an English guy on TV yesterday, building an aluminum body make a compound curve heat it with a rose bud looking deal and bend it like you would not believe.

I have a co-worker that has a few Lotus 7's all aluminum body cars.
They are pretty rare cars, one of them he bought was wrecked hard, but had racing pedigree, his neighbor had just retired, and re-built over 90% of that aluminum body for him, it turned out beautiful, no hiding bodywork on polished bare aluminum.
The guy is a true craftsman.
I said to my co-worker, that must have cost you a fortune, he said no, he just had to keep the refrigerator full of beer for him.
The guy was retired, just looking for something to do.

Google Lotus 7 if you want to see compound curves.
 
I used my bench vise, vise grips and regular pliers. The largest patch was about 4" long. I bent the two 90* bends first, sectioned it in 4 places with the whiz wheel, then pressed it against the bottom pinch weld and molded it into the shape of that curve. Tacked it on and welded up the whiz wheel slots. I worked on it probably about 20-30 minutes at the time and then left it be a while. I cannot just keep at it. I don't have the patience, so I have to do it in steps.
I usually have to make a couple of trips out to the car trailer, seems like I cant build anything out of sheet metal w/o using the trailer to do some bending .
 
I usually have to make a couple of trips out to the car trailer, seems like I cant build anything out of sheet metal w/o using the trailer to do some bending .
You know you are a hillbilly fabricator when your car trailer has a vice, a deal to hold 3 ball peen hammers, a full sheet of 18 ga., and a basket to hold 5 c clamps and 6 vise grips!!!!! lol
 
You know you are a hillbilly fabricator when your car trailer has a vice, a deal to hold 3 ball peen hammers, a full sheet of 18 ga., and a basket to hold 5 c clamps and 6 vise grips!!!!! lol

LOL , u must be better than me !!
 
-
Back
Top