Need help with 1975 Duster /6 to 440 conversion

-
Plymouth_Ruster

Plymouth_Ruster

"I'm a profeshunel"
Joined
Apr 4, 2018
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Location
Washington
Was going to keep a slant six in this car, but I was recently offered a pretty good deal on a 440/727. I already know doing RB swaps on later Dusters is an absolute pain because they're not as popular, But I need some help with this.

I already know which engine mounts I need, part #SCHA73B6 from Mancini Racing. Obviously I'll also need a different radiator and a few other things.
So I know I need:

-Radiator
-Drive shaft
-Either a Chysler 8 3/4 or Ford 9 inch differential (or a Ford 8.8, looks like the easiest and cheapest option)
-Headers that will fit an A-body with power steering (looking at Schumacher)
-Engine mounts (already found)
-Transmission lines (going to use flexible metal brake line for this, or apparently they just sell them)
-P/S pump
-Camshaft (RV cams are alright but I don't need the car to pull three times its own weight) -have several options for this
-Different carb, probably (holley 750 looks like the go-to here)
-Transmission yoke
-Engine already has accessory brackets on it
-Trans linkage (these are sold several places)
-Blower motor modifications
-Front-sump pan & pickup
-Mini starter

Will also check out the Schumacher conversion kits later.

Lemme know what you else you guys think I'll need that isn't listed here, as well as where to get those parts. The headers are what I'm currently most worried about.
 
Last edited:
Look at Schumacher kits, saves a ton of time and cheaper in the long run.

-heater blower mod
-Accessory brackets
-transmission yoke
-mini starter
-Throttle cable
-transmission linkage

A 8.25 rear will handle a mild BB no problem
 
halifaxhops said:
Look at Schumacher kits, saves a ton of time and cheaper in the long run.

-heater blower mod
-Accessory brackets
-transmission yoke
-mini starter
-Throttle cable
-transmission linkage

A 8.25 rear will handle a mild BB no problem
Click to expand...

8.25? I thought it was an 8 3/4. Or are you talking about a different one?
 
They are good up to 500 hp. I run one in my dart. They do not get a lot of credit.
 
7 1/4 is junk. Get a track lock assy and rebuild it you are golden with 3:55 gears.
 
Used the slant throttle cable. It's long enough to use on a bigblock and use the /6 wiring harness for same reason
 
Did the same on mine. just have to watch it does not rub through the wiring and start a fire!:mad:
 
I went four wheel disks. Had to just disk on the front was like stopping a ship. Also power I recommend a 8" booster kit to clear the valve covers..

s-l1600.jpg
 
Last edited:
also on my to add list is drill holes in the passenger fender to get to the middle spark plugs. Real PIA in the 74 dart
 
The headers is a problem, especially with power steering and if it an auto on the column, and then the center link, trying to get a BB between the fender wells and clear all that on the drivers side is almost impossible, some brand headers just won't make it, maybe someone will chime in and tell you what headers is best, myself i finally gave up and went stock manifolds.
 
It's not hard to find 8-3/4 rears, but it not too easy to find them already set-up (or original) for an A-body. If you hunt for a Ford 9" I'd try looking for one in a Fairlane or big old mustang, like 70-73. I have one in my '69. A driveshaft shop can make you up a custom shaft. You can get the parts you need easily, and you are likely going to want a bigger than stock diameter for strength anyway. As far as the motor goes, IIWY, I'd just spec a Road Runner (or 440 magnum) hydraulic cam in and run one of the new Holley 750's. Go vacuum secondary with that cam for simplicity, or if you decide you want a beast, a Purple Shaft .509 will fit with little effort and use the double pumper 750 carb. Aluminum radiators are very common now and there are options available that direct fit. Or if you can grab one easily, i'd just get a 26" unit for a "C" body, as it will do the job easily. TTI would be my choice for the headers, but they are $$. Good luck, sounds like a nice pro-street car, and could be a super sleeper if you do it right. HTH, Lefty71
 
robert flippo said:
The headers is a problem, especially with power steering and if it an auto on the column, and then the center link, trying to get a BB between the fender wells and clear all that on the drivers side is almost impossible, some brand headers just won't make it, maybe someone will chime in and tell you what headers is best, myself i finally gave up and went stock manifolds.
Click to expand...
I have ps and the Schumacher's clear easily but are not cheap. Recommend wrapping them to get rid of some heat.. Biggest *** pain for me was the fan motor. There are a few different mods in the how to area. Not a cheap project to take on, but to me well worth it.
 
On my 72 440 Dart. I ditched the power brakes but kept the bracket and just mounted the master cylinder back on. Gave me a ton of clearance for the valve cover. I didnt have an issue with the blower motor. I took the 3 or 4 nuts off , pushed the motor back and the engine never hit when installing. I also ditched the power steering and went manual.
My 2cents.
 
halifaxhops said:
also on my to add list is drill holes in the passenger fender to get to the middle spark plugs. Real PIA in the 74 dart
Click to expand...
Big pain in a 68 fastback w/ raised port heads too. Got the hole on the pass side will eventually cut the drivers side like u suggested !
No.7 is right behind the steering column , got to be real careful w/ that one /alum. heads.
 
4fortyDemon said:
On my 72 440 Dart. I ditched the power brakes but kept the bracket and just mounted the master cylinder back on. Gave me a ton of clearance for the valve cover. I didnt have an issue with the blower motor. I took the 3 or 4 nuts off , pushed the motor back and the engine never hit when installing. I also ditched the power steering and went manual.
My 2cents.
Click to expand...
Think there are three different ways the oem fan motors mount on different models/heater boxes.
 
halifaxhops said:
Think there are three different ways the oem fan motors mount on different models/heater boxes.
Click to expand...
That could be., I just know I got lucky with mine. I only know of 67-72 style wo ac. Although I do have a 70 440 Duster with ac style motor and no issues... idk...good luck I guess!
 
You may also want to consider snagging an 8.8 Ford from an Explorer, they often come equipped with 3.73 or 4.10 gears and trac-lok diffs. Becoming a popular swap as they are reasonably cheap and easy to find, will need to be shortened of course, but if you grab 2 right side axles you will be set. Added bonus is they already have disc brakes!
 
missing linc said:
You may also want to consider snagging an 8.8 Ford from an Explorer, they often come equipped with 3.73 or 4.10 gears and trac-lok diffs. Becoming a popular swap as they are reasonably cheap and easy to find, will need to be shortened of course, but if you grab 2 right side axles you will be set. Added bonus is they already have disc brakes!
Click to expand...

Do the axle tubes on the 8.8 just unscrew from the housing? And do they have any large nuts/bolts on those explorer rear ends, or is it all sub-1" metric and standard stuff? I'll probably head out to my local Pick n' Pull as there's about 25 explorers there with the 8.8.
 
I have not personally pulled one out, however there are members here that have, hopefully one of them can help with your questions. I do know that it has to be 2001 or earlier as they changed to IRS in 2002.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top