dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
What wheel would I need for that?You can run a 275 60 with the right wheel and no relocation.
What wheel would I need for that?You can run a 275 60 with the right wheel and no relocation.
What wheel would I need for that?
You can run a 275 60 with the right wheel and no relocation.
What wheel would I need for that?
I had to enlarge an existing hole quite a bit , pretty heavily massage the frame rail and drive the front spring hanger in place ,it was and "is" more than 1/2 " offset , and aint coming out easily. I had to pull one to place an 1/8" shim in front of it to square my rear end, with 295x65`s on it , it has to be perfect . After being told that`s not what I did, I`m sure mine are freaks , hence the guy I bought them from couldn`t get them in his car . ????. If I spend money on something, I`m dam well going to use it , even if I have to modify it . Which is the case for a lot of parts now.
There was another guy on here that had a pair that was over 1/2" in the front too, but don't remember his handle .
After all this B.S. and "know it knowitallishness" , I`m sure dr.diffs are 1/2" , and mine are not the norm.
Hey 72, what do you think about the AFCO springs? I have a set I am planning on using.
I think they're great. It's too bad that they don't sell the 121 lb/in version like I have anymore, I'd buy more. The only thing I screwed up is they came bare, and I should have painted them before I installed them.
Cool cool, I hope mine aren't too stiff
Here some real world pics I took today. I'm running 245/45r17 on 17x9 Bullitt's with a 1" spacer.
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I really don't know what they are, I think one still has/had the numbers on it. They came on a Camaro I bought, just springs they put on to make it a roller. I assume if they are a set, probably 125-150 on one side and 200-225 other... Depending on what they were ordered for
Here some real world pics I took today. I'm running 245/45r17 on 17x9 Bullitt's with a 1" spacer.
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IDK on backspace, they're factory Ford Bullitt's on a 74 Scamp.Idk if you said earlier, but what backspace, and a dart hardtop. Or?
Yeah I thought about going wider on the back but I wasn't sure about what I could stuff in there. I figured being able to rotate them wouldn't be a bad thing.Nice! Yeah that’s just about perfect, good spacing, plenty of clearance. 255’s are usually pretty tight, lots of cars need trimming for those. And of course different brands of tire are actually different widths. Not to mention the wheel width makes a difference too, 245’s on 17x9’s will have a wider section width than if they were mounted on 17x8’s. And that’s before you even get into ride height, body tolerances, etc.
So a 255 on a 7 will be narrower than a 255 on a 8?Oh, that probably won’t work. AFCO has Chevy and Chrysler style springs, the eyes and lengths are different. If they’re actually Chevy springs they won’t be right.
Nice! Yeah that’s just about perfect, good spacing, plenty of clearance. 255’s are usually pretty tight, lots of cars need trimming for those. And of course different brands of tire are actually different widths. Not to mention the wheel width makes a difference too, 245’s on 17x9’s will have a wider section width than if they were mounted on 17x8’s. And that’s before you even get into ride height, body tolerances, etc.
Even the Mopar Performance 3/4” kit doesn’t move the springs by a 3/4”. The front hanger only moves a 1/2”, the rear shackles are 3/4”, and it calls for the spring perches to be moved 3/4”. So it side loads the springs and places them at a slight angle,
Iv seen the rollers for sale on Eastwood but never seen them used does it change the appearance of the wheel opening?
That's awesome I guess I will just run 245s that should be plenty of tire. And I can spend the 200+ on something else lol
Rusty means no 3" relocation. On Dart you need a 1/2" spring offset to run 275's. Only the Duster/Demons/Dart Sports/Barracuda's can run a 275 with springs in the stock location, the stock wheel tubs are wider by 1" compared to the Dart's.
On a Dart you can run a 275, but not with the springs in the stock location. You can do it without a full 3" relocation and mini-tub, but you need a 1/2" offset.
What wheel you need to do that depends on which axle you have and whether or not it's BBP or SBP. A-body rear axles are different widths- the 8 3/4, 7.25 and 8.25 axles are not the same width. So if you want to max out your tire, the wheel specs change by axle.
I'm not going to debate this with you. I'm going to show you that the Mopar Performance "3/4" offset is NOT a 3/4" offset at the spring hanger, because it CAN'T be.
This is my Dart, the leaf springs are in the stock locations. The hangers are aftermarket reproductions (from Mancini), but they are in the stock location and use the stock spring perches on the original 8 3/4 rear axle. As you can see, there is a 1/2" from the hanger to the frame (minus a little undercoating), and 1" from the inside of the spring to the frame rail. I measured this right at the spring, as you can see the gap is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom because the frame rail has a taper (they all do).
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Now, this is my Duster. Let me be clear right up front, this IS a Mopar Performance 3/4" offset hanger. Not a DoctorDiff hanger, but the real MP offset hanger that is advertised as a 3/4" offset. Notice it is right up against the frame rail at the top. The rails taper slightly from top to bottom, so it's flush at the top and has a very small gap at the bottom. The hanger is vertical, the rail is not.
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And here's the measurement. The hanger is up against the frame at the top, there's pretty much 0 space between the hanger and the frame rail at the spring, it's less than a 1/16". And it doesn't matter, because the frame rail is tapered so unless the spring hanger isn't vertical there will be a space there even when it's touching the frame at the top. The spring is a 1/2" clear of the frame. So, for the mathematically un-inclined, the spring moved exactly a 1/2" inboard. Not 3/4", only a 1/2".
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And again, that's a 3/4" Mopar Performance offset hanger. The frame was drilled and massaged for the nut that you can't see, it sits inside the frame rail.
So, that's 2 different cars. One showing that the stock spring location puts the hanger only a 1/2" from the frame. And the other showing that the MP 3/4" offset hanger only moves the front spring hanger by a 1/2". Two cars showing the same exact thing- the MP 3/4" offset kit spring hangers only move the spring a 1/2", because that's as far as you can move the front spring hangers before they hit the frame rail.
Now, I'm sure someone will say "but there's still a 1/2" of clearance between the spring and the frame!!!"
And that's true. A 1/4" of that is the spring hanger, the other 1/4 is spring eye bushing. Those are stock spring eye bushings too. The Dart has Mopar Performance SS springs on it. The Duster has AFCO's, which have plain old stock rubber spring eye bushings. So, unless you shave the spring eye bushings down and force the spring further toward the hanger body, that's what you're stuck with. The spring eye bolts are torqued to spec on both cars.
The MP hangers that you can buy are not a real 3/4" offset, they're a 1/2" offset at the hanger with 3/4" offset shackles that side load the spring and still only buy you about a 1/2" of clearance at the front of the tire.
Now Bob, if you want to take detailed pictures showing how your offset hangers somehow go inside the frame rails and really offset your springs 3/4", be my guest. But until then, I don't believe you.
That's a good point! Lol I would probably be ok with 205s or 215s hahaYeah cause your junk probably ain't even gonna be able to turn those over. lol