Second Round of Blocking

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I am about ready for my second round of high build. The first round was done with 180 grit.

I am now going to move up to 320 grit. I know I want to move up to 400 before the I lay the sealer coat, but my question is do I have to lay down another coat of high build and then block with 400 after the 320? Or can I just go over the 320 with 400?
 
Sure. Long blocks with guide code. Wet sand is messy but easier to spot waves using the water. But if you have highs or lows that didn't come out with the 180 there isn't a point in going finer till they're worked out.
 
70Duster440 said:
Sure. Long blocks with guide code. Wet sand is messy but easier to spot waves using the water. But if you have highs or lows that didn't come out with the 180 there isn't a point in going finer till they're worked out.
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Ive been guide coating and blocking with 180. I'm feeling pretty good. I feel better with another round and maybe a little spot glazing.
 
Guide coat each stage. Some will go to 600 but that's more important with metallics (a missed heavy sand scratch will show in metallic base coat). Ask 10 guys and you'll probably get 10 different suggestions.
 
70Duster440 said:
Guide coat each stage. Some will go to 600 but that's more important with metallics (a missed heavy sand scratch will show in metallic base coat). Ask 10 guys and you'll probably get 10 different suggestions.
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Yea for sure. The color is Plum Crazy Pearl (PHG) I'll contact the paint manufacturer to see what they suggest. I just wasn't sure if it was ok to jump to 600 without laying down more material.
 
Depends on what kind of finish you're after. Some would block it all down, lay more primer on, and do it all over again.

What some make the mistake of (and you're not) is jumping too far in grits. They end up polishing highs/lows instead of flattening the surface.
 
70Duster440 said:
Depends on what kind of finish you're after. Some would block it all down, lay more primer on, and do it all over again.

What some make the mistake of (and you're not) is jumping too far in grits. They end up polishing highs/lows instead of flattening the surface.
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I gotcha. Ok. Thanks for the help!
 
I used the 3m drycoat as my guide. I felt it got into the scratches better. I went to 600 wet then SPI reduced epoxy as a sealer coat. I was spraying metallic though. Never shot pearl before but would think smaller the scratches the better and still have some bite for the sealer coat. I think Barry says you’re good to 800 with his epoxy as a reduced sealer coat.
 
daves66valiant said:
I used the 3m drycoat as my guide. I felt it got into the scratches better. I went to 600 wet then SPI reduced epoxy as a sealer coat. I was spraying metallic though. Never shot pearl before but would think smaller the scratches the better and still have some bite for the sealer coat. I think Barry says you’re good to 800 with his epoxy as a reduced sealer coat.
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Thanks!I reached out to him and he said 600.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Thanks!I reached out to him and he said 600.
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Just my 2 cents here, but there are 2 different 600 grits one with the letter P600 "rougher and more aggressive" and A600 "finer" Since your sealing it P600 is perfect but without sealer A600 for sure.
 
When I worked in the trade and we worked on a restoration, we always primed and blocked twice and we allowed at least a couple weeks in between for material shrinkage.
 
Blocked this 3 times. But it's perfect now.

2287.jpg
 
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