67 Idler Arm Question..

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Troub

67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
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Does anyone know a reliable vendor/part number for 67 Dart idler arm? Read previous posts and not sure. Rare Parts wants over $200 so no thanks on that one. Was 67 a one year only idler? One thing I've learned through this restoration process is that just because a vendor SAYS it fits a 67 doesn't mean that it does!
Thanks for any help.
 
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Was 67 a one year only idler?
Yes
Rare Parts wants over $200 so no thanks on that one
It is a stout part but for 200??? Not worth it IMHO, except that it will last you 50 years unless you're car is a daily driver.

Does anyone know a reliable vendor/part number for 67 Dart idler arm
I recently bought one of the $65.00 ones and it was dimentionally very close to the last one that was on my 67 dart, not OEM. The main things i noticed is the hole for the frame side cotter pin was so high that i had to put a thick washer under the castle nut to move it high enough to be able to capture the cotter pin.
I think i bought mine on ebay but this one from pst looks just like the one i bought
Idler Arm

Another option is to find a 68 and up (not sure what the upper date is) K frame it uses a better idler design and is otherwise dimentionally the same.
 
Firm feel bushing kit i believe is for 68 up idler arm. I have a used 67 only one thats nice and tight. Not sloppy. Cleaned it up and painted it. Comes with new cotter pins $30 plus small flat rate shipping.

20190325_202829.jpg


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The one I replaced felt firm off the car but when it was on the car it would flex all over the place.
 
One year only junk design. Go 68 up K member, and concider this a bad memory. That being said it didnt appear to have any slop while on the K frame, but that doesnt mean anything.
 
That being said it didnt appear to have any slop while on the K frame, but that doesnt mean anything
Mine was obvious, turn wheel and watch it move around. Yours is probably good. You would know if it was bad. Very visually obvious
 
The one I replaced felt firm off the car but when it was on the car it would flex all over the place.

Did you install a thick washer between the castle nut and the k-member tab? You can't get the taper tight without one.
 
Did you install a thick washer between the castle nut and the k-member tab? You can't get the taper tight without one
Yes between castel nut and tab. I could tighten properly but nut was too far down the threads, below the hole for cotter pin
 
Yes between castel nut and tab. I could tighten properly but nut was too far down the threads, below the hole for cotter pin

If the nut was too far on the threads then the washer wasn't thick enough. I went through this in 1996 with a '67 Barracuda that I bought. The car was overall in decent condition, but had a sloppy idler. There are no washer. Put a thick washer on and had no more problems with a sloppy idler. I only kept that in a few years. The next time the car went together was with a home built DC k-member and a 383...
 
So... My car.
Definitely not numbers matching.
I'm not sure if it started out as a 67 or a 68.
How would I know if it has 67 or 68 idler arm ?
 
If it has a thru bolt at the frame 68 up if it has a ball joint at each end 67.

Look up the parts and you will see the difference right away
Photo in post 7 is 67
 
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If the nut was too far on the threads then the washer wasn't thick enough. I went through this in 1996 with a '67 Barracuda that I bought. The car was overall in decent condition, but had a sloppy idler. There are no washer. Put a thick washer on and had no more problems with a sloppy idler
The problem with the old one was the ball joints were sloppy. I had to use a joint remover to pop the frame side and link side out. The tapered shaft on the new ball joints had a threaded section that was longer than it needed to be.
 
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i had a thought of having some steel turned to have the 67 taper on one end and the 68 shaft on the other. allowing for the 68 idler to be used in place if a 67 with no frame alterations.
 
Is the 67 Barracuda idler arm installed from underneath so that the castle nuts are on top? The catalogs all show it going down through but it doesn’t even come close to fitting that way.
 
I believe so. Go to mymopar.com download your cars factory service manual
 
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