Early A V8 Headers/Exhaust

-

FWDLK Frank

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Messages
185
Reaction score
128
Location
Baltimore
Hello All,
I'm building a 65 Valiant 200 2dr post. Putting in a 71 340, 3.510 stroker crank, forged pistons, 587 heads with stainless valves and a bowl blend, electronic ignition, 68 carb and intake. The trans is going to be a completely rebuilt A-833OD with Hurst linkage. The rear is a 8-3/4 3.55 SG. I'm running power steering, dealer power disc brakes and factory A/C. My question is regarding headers. I've seen Doug's headers, TTI headers and a few odds and ends out there. I've heard block huggers won't work on the driver's side, and occasionally TTI and Doug's have fitment issues but I really want to hear from those of you who have been there and done that. Meaning actually ran a 340 with a 10.5" clutch housing and installed the header exhaust system. I would like to run TTIs headers with an X pipe and 2.5" exhaust system but if it means beating up my fender wells and cutting up my frame, I'm not going to do it. I don't want to cut/modify the body of the car. I do have a modified dual exhaust cross member to use and I'm not opposed to cutting a little on the bellhousing as it's an OD bell with a 10.5' clutch. I'm also not opposed to moving a brake cable or line. I'm looking to those of you who have done this and hear about the issue you've had before I pull the trigger and spend the funds. Finally, I've heard 340 Hi Po Manifolds can work with some creative exhaust work on the driver's side. What are your thoughts? Thanks for your time and help. -Frank
 
I changed my 73 Dart from power steering to manual steering. Even with the smaller than stock Grant steering wheel it was easy to drive even when maneuvering in parking lots and such, it eliminated that numb zero feedback feeling which GREATLY added to cornering confidence, eliminated that ugly pump and those hoses from my engine bay and (my favorite) allowed me to mount ANY headers with zero clearance issues. I don't understand why anyone building an A-Body would have the power steering on it for any longer than it would take to find a manual box to replace it.
 
With your build and considering power level , cost and fitment issues , the manifolds would be the better choice.
 
With your build and considering power level , cost and fitment issues , the manifolds would be the better choice.
I just put Doug's on a 66 Cuda during a magnum swap
It is a 904.
Had absolutely no fitment issues

20190530_171103.jpg


20190530_171114.jpg


20190607_102335.jpg


20190606_134303.jpg


20190606_134248.jpg
 
Also run dual 3" with X pipe

View attachment 1715354412
Thanks for the photos and letting me know about the power steering. This seems to be more of the direction I want to go. Where did you get the X pipe and exhaust system? I won't be pushing enough exhaust volume for 3" but a nice 2.5" system should work. Let me know. Thanks again for your help.
 
The FIRST mod I EVER did to the FIRST car I EVER had was Intake and Carburetor, Headers and Exhaust. It was like awakening a MONSTER that had been sleeping in that stock 318 in that 73 Swinger ! It has been my TOP priority ever since.
 
I installed Doug's headers on my '65 Dart with 340. The only issue I have is that the header touches the Mopar Performance mini starter. I don't want to dimple my headers, so I'm trying a /6 starter, but I have to grind the block a bit.
Dumped the stock power steering unit for a Borgenson unit and it fits just fine.
I didn't have a hard time installing the headers, but needed a pair of helping hands for the driver's side.
 
I should have mentioned mine is a Borgenson setup also with a low pressure tuff stuff pump.
 
/6 starter is no different than an 8. You want a Dakota/Ram Denso starter. Talk about mini!
 
Which part number did you use for that NOT hitting the steering box fit and how many tricks did you learn to get them installed ?
D 450.
They fit perfect and hit nowhere.
I installed them with the torsion bars and steering column out.
I installed the engine on the K frame from the bottom, and if I had it to do over I think I could have installed the headers on the engine before it went in except for the #1 tube on the drivers side.
 
20190625_135738.jpg
20190625_135755.jpg
20190625_140024.jpg
20190625_141007.jpg
D 450.
They fit perfect and hit nowhere.
I installed them with the torsion bars and steering column out.
I installed the engine on the K frame from the bottom, and if I had it to do over I think I could have installed the headers on the engine before it went in except for the #1 tube on the drivers side.

Same as above but my engine/transmission on K frame with headers installed and driver's side wouldn't fit.
What I've discovered is that every Early A is a bit different. What works on one car won't on another. There is very little room on the driver's side for the pipes to fit around the steering column, steering box, torsion bar, starter and fender!

Note the photos above to see how tight the driver side header is to the fender, the torsion bar and the starter. See how the header just touches the Mopar Performance mini starter?
The photo below is a starter recommended by /6 Dan, and it hugs the block and gives the header plenty of room. Problem is, the Remy starter hugs the block too tightly, and to get it to fit I'm going to have to remove some of the block with a die grinder.

Pishta, thanks for the advice, but I don't believe there is enough room between the header pipe, torsion bar and starter that shimming the notor mount is going to solve my fitment problem with the starter.

Motorpirate, I learned the hard way the Z bar needs to be in place prior to fitting the headers. Maybe that's obvious to everyone else, which would be par for the course.


20190625_141144.jpg
 
Last edited:
Same as above but my engine/transmission on K frame with headers installed and driver's side wouldn't fit.
What I've discovered is that every Early A is a bit different. What works on one car won't on another. There is very little room on the driver's side for the pipes to fit around the steering column, steering box, torsion bar, starter and fender!
Shim the motor mounts to frame to adjust the motor centerline/driver side clearances. Seems the tolerances are a little loose on these cars.
 
View attachment 1715355033 View attachment 1715355034 View attachment 1715355035 View attachment 1715355036

Same as above but my engine/transmission on K frame with headers installed and driver's side wouldn't fit.
What I've discovered is that every Early A is a bit different. What works on one car won't on another. There is very little room on the driver's side for the pipes to fit around the steering column, steering box, torsion bar, starter and fender!

Note the photos above to see how tight the driver side header is to the fender, the torsion bar and the starter. See how the header just touches the Mopar Performance mini starter?
The photo below is a starter recommended by /6 Dan, and it hugs the block and gives the header plenty of room. Problem is, the Remy starter hugs the block too tightly, and to get it to fit I'm going to have to remove some of the block with a die grinder.

Pishta, thanks for the advice, but I don't believe there is enough room between the header pipe, torsion bar and starter that shimming the notor mount is going to solve my fitment problem with the starter.

Motorpirate, I learned the hard way the Z bar needs to be in place prior to fitting the headers. Maybe that's obvious to everyone else but me, which would be par for the course.


View attachment 1715355037
I had to grind my block (Magnum) for the starter to fit. Really didn't take much.

20190609_115432.jpg
 
I’ve installed both Tti( when they first came out for early a) and Doug’s. One with manual steering and one with power. Both are 66 valiants. The torsion bars are a ***** with TTIs unless they’ve improved them in the last 10 years. Had to use a clocked starter with TTIs. I have a Lakewood bellhousing and 5spd tremec with hydraulic clutch. Don’t remember having issues with z-bar.
 
I’ve installed both Tti( when they first came out for early a) and Doug’s. One with manual steering and one with power. Both are 66 valiants. The torsion bars are a ***** with TTIs unless they’ve improved them in the last 10 years. Had to use a clocked starter with TTIs. I have a Lakewood bellhousing and 5spd tremec with hydraulic clutch. Don’t remember having issues with z-bar.
I don't believe a hydraulic clutch has a Z bar. I have an A 833 with Gear Vendors overdrive.

If I had realized how much of a PIA the Z bar and header clearance issues were going to be, I'd have gone with a hydraulic clutch also!
 
I have Doug's also in my '65 Barracuda with a 360. My car has the same mods as everyone else above, and seem to all be necessary. Wish I known all that before I went in. Borgeson power steering pump, Flaming River steering column adapter, clocked starter, shimmed the driver side engine mount, and American Powertrain hydro clutch setup. Lots of mods to make the headers fit, but the car drives super nice.

Unlike others I had to weld up some of the tubes on the driver's side headers to keep them from leaking. What a pain. Should have kept the 273.
 
-
Back
Top