Engine decking issue(help)

-
After reading this thread I guess I should scrap my VanNorman 570 and BHJ Blok Tru. Honestly, it does take a while to set up, but has served me well , at least when measured with my stone age dial indicators.
 
The OP has a block on the machine and there is a discrepancy in the deck height from when two different people measured the height. I’m not sure how helpful the advice is on how to square deck a block on a different machine is. I’m sure that using the most up to date machine/with a skilled operator will produce the best results. That’s not the situation at hand, this is triage. We can all agree the situation is not ideal, but should he pull it from the machinist? Not trying to be difficult but if at-least some of the cost of your machines is not included in your rate, that’s not wise.
 
Listen! I don't mean to put all of your methods down. But times have changed. I can remember not that long ago my telephone had a wire going to it.

It took a long time to get our machines that we have. They are for us and racers we know and meet. My son charges $200 to square deck a V8. Break a tool and there goes a couple hundred
He was telling us tonight the proper way to machine a new block is
1. hold the block and Bore the cam tunnel
2 hold the block by the cam tunnel with a cam bar and cut the mains
3 hold the block in the fixture by the main bearing bores and set the deck height on one side by using the Cam and crank center which is 45 degrees to the first deck. Zero the DRO
4.Turn the fixture and it will go past center to 45 degrees to the other side of the center this will be 90 degrees from the first deck This is square decking. Exact 90 Degree head surface difference is squaring the decks. If you cut to zero on the second Deck they will be the exact same height and 90 degrees apart. Another words a framing square will set from deck to deck. Square!

What I did but I did the crank line bore first- wonder what the difference is
as most of us know one cam bearing is usually tight on a BBM

my problem with the caliper method is that it will not find a low or high block corner
 
Last edited:
After reading this thread I guess I should scrap my VanNorman 570 and BHJ Blok Tru. Honestly, it does take a while to set up, but has served me well , at least when measured with my stone age dial indicators.


Exactly. I'm betting in the end, what you have is only slower in actual machine time. The new stuff is certainly more rigid, and you can take a bigger cut, and up the speed and feed rates.

Other than that, it's about a wash.
 
I am not trying to piss on anyone. The reason it only cost $200 to deck a block Is not due to what he paid for the machine. It is because that is how long it takes times $60 an hour. Do it the old way and the time rate doubles. It takes longer and the chance of error also goes up with pen and paper. These machines do the math for you. If shops set their rates at the cost of their equipment they would never get work.

I'm surprised your sons labor burden is only $60.00 an hour, given the general cost of goods and services needed to operate a shop such as you have described your son has. Light's, heat, insurance, environmental fees, property taxes, a pay check, maintenance on the building and machines is a lot to cover.

I am not a machinist, I can make chips and on a really good day I can make a part; I can't see it taking over 6 hours the"old fashion" way to set up and deck a block if it takes you just over 3 hours to set up and machine and you claim this is a manual machine.
 
Exactly. I'm betting in the end, what you have is only slower in actual machine time. The new stuff is certainly more rigid, and you can take a bigger cut, and up the speed and feed rates.

Other than that, it's about a wash.

Yeah,you are right, I take light cuts, but I can work on other things while its cutting. Using the one piston and rod in all four corners it is easy to hit less than 1/2 thou variance. Its just slow to set up. Of coarse, I am slow at everything these days!
 
60 bucks an hour is a bargain, at that rate it only pays for my left eyeball.
 
You're not trying to piss on anybody? But we're "whacked out" because we don't do it yall's way. I could pick some more of your condescending quotes, but I think you see my point.

Look man, I get it. You're PROUD of your son and what he can do. In fact, there's probably NOBODY on here who gets it more than I do. Wanna know why? Because my son is a shitstain on the diaper of humanity. If it doesn't involve laying around all day playing video games online, he doesn't do it. S'why he left here in 2008 and ain't gonna live here. Ever. Again. Geez man, if I were you, I'd wanna be shouting from the mountain tops how proud I am of my son. I get it. I just don't have that luxury.

Lots of people have won races and set records with "whacked out" machinists who did their machine work, so they must know "a little" something.


I was never implying that performance is all about machine work. We lost many races to dirt floor barn builds. I was one of those builders when I was younger. Its the final tune that makes them go or blow. What my son goes for is a motor that holds together to a severe beating for 30 laps every week and last deep into the season. Those racers pay the bills

Your dam right I am proud that he is doing something with his life. He has been racing since he is 13 yrs old, He is now 34. Our neighbor Todd has a son Dillan same age as my son and they grew up together. He is a bedroom dweller that has the fastest thumbs on our street. Todd left it go to long and now that is all the kid knows. He is good to have next door though, When ever I need help on something I know where to find him. When ever he helps I give him $22. He goes right out and gets food or beer.

His dad did knock his teeth out. busted his nose, and fractured his eye socket . Then the day he came home from the 2 week hospital stay. He broke his jaw at his chin. That could have had an effect on him. My son had his share of broken bones too . he got them on his own racing ATVs and sprint cars.

I guess there are several ways to achieve a goal. But some of the methods that were mentioned just didn't make sense . I am not going to call anyone out they know who they are. And by the way I did post pictures of the mods my son has done to small block oiling. I just got back from Maryland he was just down there cutting 1/8 ball slots in solid roller lifters for oil through push rods for someones motor. You all don't have to ask me, Just go to his instagram page. SK Machine . I don't know **** about this new equipment. and I don't have a computor phone. I know what I learned from watching him .
 
So i got the block from machine shop, i can verify that it did appear to be a little out of square in the machine that he had it in so i told him to square it up, i took it home and after a mock up it appears im 1 or 2 thousandths out of the hole but i will have to check once my bridge dial comes in as i needed to buy one. As i was mocking up the block i also wanted to check main bearing clearances with plastiguage as that is all that is available to me. Im a little concered with what readings i was getting. This is the 3.58 crank from scat and i did have it line honed with the studs. These are all the readings i am getting and i did use a dab of petroleum jelly to keep it in place.

20190628_011330.jpg


20190628_011355.jpg


20190628_011410.jpg


20190628_011436.jpg


20190628_011450.jpg
 
No disrespect to anyone, Look up the movie The Indian it is a true story about an Australian Indian motorcycle owner who came to America to run Bonneville and broke records with hand made parts.....
It all started in back alley shops and garages and has evolved into high tech high dollar equipment and formulas... doesnt mean the "old"ways are wrong and the "new" ways are better maybe they just get faster results. Old school Max Wedge Cross Rams dont work on paper (look it up) but they still whip ***! Put the gloves away and go racing
:usflag:
 
So im going to do another check juat to check again but my question is if that is true reading then should i get undersized bearings?

After looking in a 68 Dodge service manual your good to go at .0005-.0020 max .0030 on the rods and .0005-0015 max .0025 on the mains.
This is the spec for your 340 block using a 340 main journal size crank.
 
Last edited:
After looking in a 68 Dodge service manual your good to go at .0005-.0020 max .0030 on the rods and .0005-0015 max .0025 on the mains.


That's for the 273/318/340 sized mains. That's pretty tight for that bigger 360 main. Unless you run really thin oil and the block is very rigid.
 
That's for the 273/318/340 sized mains. That's pretty tight for that bigger 360 main. Unless you run really thin oil and the block is very rigid.
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?
 
This is a 340 block with a 3.58 crank fron scat, dont 318 and 340 share same main size?

Yes 273, 318, 340 and I think the V10 all use the same rod bearings.
The 273, 318 and 340 use the same mains up untill the1974 middle bearing change.
 
Okay maybe ill check one more time for peace of mind and then put botton end together. Im running hv oil pump also lol.
Waiting on the bolt arp is sending me to clear the oil pump. I called and the guy new exactly what i was talking about lol, he just told me that yeah weve known about it and have tried to resolve this by adding additional details lol
 
Just got em, from what i heard is they have shelf life. How do i know if mine was too old?
I don't know. I don't think there's a date on the packaging. I know I tried using some that i know was a couple years old, and the readings were way off. So I went and got some fresh stuff, and it was a big difference.
 
I look at the service manuals and it says
Desired is .0005-.0015
Allowed is .0025

So is my .0015 im getting a little to tight or will it be okay as this is a performance street with strip runs sometimes
 
-
Back
Top