408 cam / build help.

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David66dart

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I am building my second 360 motor which will be a 408 stroker. I am 17 and experience is limited. The blocks I have are a 1971 block (30 over) and a 1977 block (30 over) block preference? I have some 77 heads with 1.88/ 1.6 valves I will be using, i will be doing some porting. anyone have ideas on what cam to run? Gears are 355 with a 904. In a 1966 Dart 2 door. Aiming for 350+ HP 400+ TQ. On 93 pump gas
 
This is the cam I'm running. Roadkill is running the same cam in the 360 in the vanishing paint Challenger. They claim 400 hp out of that engine. My 408 is stout but haven't dyno'd to get numbers. Other members may have a better suggestion.

IMG_20160909_055303.jpg
 
I am building my second 360 motor which will be a 408 stroker. I am 17 and experience is limited. The blocks I have are a 1971 block (30 over) and a 1977 block (30 over) block preference? I have some 77 heads with 1.88/ 1.6 valves I will be using, i will be doing some porting. anyone have ideas on what cam to run? Gears are 355 with a 904. In a 1966 Dart 2 door. Aiming for 350+ HP 400+ TQ. On 93 pump gas
Block to use?
Simple!
The one that sonic checks the thickest!!!!!!!
“Some porting?”
Are you going w/a 2.02 valve? Touch the entire port. Widen it as much as possible. An engine of that size wants to breathe better than an OE head delivers.
A cam that will make 350 HP and use 3.55 gears? Well, that may depend on how well your heads flow. The above cam is good. If your heads move some decent air, you can step down to a 224@.050 or less and make that power easy! Between the cubes and decent head air flow, you’ll do it EZ!

I have seen stock headed 360 engines make that power and more with a stock 340 cam and headers. (FWIW, Also coupled with a rpm and a 750.)

I’m using a Hydraulic roller at 224@050 in a 360 with tti headers and well ported heads. A great street cam that’ll deliver good hp for sure. OH! It’s a 904/2500 stall w/3.55’s on 26 inch tires. 67 Cuda.

You got this!
 
Block to use?
Simple!
The one that sonic checks the thickest!!!!!!!
“Some porting?”
Are you going w/a 2.02 valve? Touch the entire port. Widen it as much as possible. An engine of that size wants to breathe better than an OE head delivers.
A cam that will make 350 HP and use 3.55 gears? Well, that may depend on how well your heads flow. The above cam is good. If your heads move some decent air, you can step down to a 224@.050 or less and make that power easy! Between the cubes and decent head air flow, you’ll do it EZ!

I have seen stock headed 360 engines make that power and more with a stock 340 cam and headers. (FWIW, Also coupled with a rpm and a 750.)

I’m using a Hydraulic roller at 224@050 in a 360 with tti headers and well ported heads. A great street cam that’ll deliver good hp for sure. OH! It’s a 904/2500 stall w/3.55’s on 26 inch tires. 67 Cuda.

You got this!
Thanks for the input I will keep that in mind and will get my blocks sonic tested.
 
I'll second what @rumblefish360 said about the heads. Horses are made and lost in the heads. Gotta get air in and out. You can take an Olympic runner and if they're breathing through only a straw, they're not as impressive. Stick Magnum heads flow better than LA style, but you have to watch out for cracking in between the seats.
 
I'll second what @rumblefish360 said about the heads. Horses are made and lost in the heads. Gotta get air in and out. You can take an Olympic runner and if they're breathing through only a straw, they're not as impressive. Stick Magnum heads flow better than LA style, but you have to watch out for cracking in between the seats.
Thanks. Worth it to buy a set of ready to run x heads other then still needing to port them for 750?
 
David. Honestly, the iron heads will make the sought after power. There drawbacks are;
Heavy & Low flow

Also, in a large engine like your doing, the head will choke the performance of the engine in power and RPMs. But you will make the power you listed above. 350hp is something you would have to be deaf dumb and blind to miss.

Depending on what your starting with, it could be cost effective to upgrade them, to a certain point that is.

I would be amazed if you found “Ready to Run” X heads at a reasonable cost. Or even cost effective vs aluminum heads.

Thanks. Worth it to buy a set of ready to run x heads other then still needing to port them for 750?

Thanks @sport74 And speaking of the show, Dave’s mentioning of cylinder heads, he says, and I agree, “Afford the best cylinder head you can.”
 
David. Honestly, the iron heads will make the sought after power. There drawbacks are;
Heavy & Low flow

Also, in a large engine like your doing, the head will choke the performance of the engine in power and RPMs. But you will make the power you listed above. 350hp is something you would have to be deaf dumb and blind to miss.

Depending on what your starting with, it could be cost effective to upgrade them, to a certain point that is.

I would be amazed if you found “Ready to Run” X heads at a reasonable cost. Or even cost effective vs aluminum heads.



Thanks @sport74 And speaking of the show, Dave’s mentioning of cylinder heads, he says, and I agree, “Afford the best cylinder head you can.”
interisting, that is good to know. I have not seen the heads yet But I had a guy tell me he had some heads that could be slapped on how they were for 750 but he was not a well known source so I would need to be cashious. I also might just put the motor togother with the heads I have now with porting and then save while I build the bank for some eddlebrock rpm heads or something
 
interisting, that is good to know. I have not seen the heads yet But I had a guy tell me he had some heads that could be slapped on how they were for 750 but he was not a well known source so I would need to be cashious. I also might just put the motor togother with the heads I have now with porting and then save while I build the bank for some eddlebrock rpm heads or something

This is a good idea, build it drive it and save up. Once you get the money saved, if you're anything like me, it won't be enough power anymore and you'll want more. Eddy heads will probably be enough wake up for it to satisfy that craving for more power
 
This is a good idea, build it drive it and save up. Once you get the money saved, if you're anything like me, it won't be enough power anymore and you'll want more. Eddy heads will probably be enough wake up for it to satisfy that craving for more power
I can agree with you 100%, I have a 360 in my dart now making upper 200s low 300s and it already feels slow to me
 
With just kinda starting out and I assume somewhat limited resources, I would build the bottom end and use your current heads. As long as they are mechanically sound. It is easier to upgrade the top of the motor as you go along. A cast scat crank is good for about 500 hp, if the end goal is higher go forged. Stay away from eagle cast cranks. I would take the $750 and save it towards buying your final head choice. Which probably will be aluminum. The pursuit of more power is never ending.
 
That's the smallest cam that Comp makes optimized for MOPARS should work fine if rpm range is ok for you (weight, gears, converter, driving goals)
note one of few times I have ever said a comp cam might be ok
advertised rpm range is most likely for a 360
If asked I'd sell X heads but we are not getting into heads now are we
just check for sunk valves etc and do your thing on them for now
with that lift cut the guides new viton stem seals-- if guides are trash- tilt
 
I think X heads may flow a bit better stock but if they are going to be touched up, J heads would yield essentially the same flow after working them both over. You should be able to find 2.02" J heads for half of what X heads go for. If you are saving for a set of Edelbrock or TrickFlow there is no sense in dumping a bunch of money freshening up old iron outside of what you can do yourselft. Find a set that will get you by as is or run what you got.

I've got a new in box example of that XE275HL cam with lifters that I hoped to get installed when the car is down for the winter. I might want to try a solid lifter version so if you are interested, shoot me a pm.
 
With just kinda starting out and I assume somewhat limited resources, I would build the bottom end and use your current heads. As long as they are mechanically sound. It is easier to upgrade the top of the motor as you go along. A cast scat crank is good for about 500 hp, if the end goal is higher go forged. Stay away from eagle cast cranks. I would take the $750 and save it towards buying your final head choice. Which probably will be aluminum. The pursuit of more power is never ending.
Good to know, just curious... What's wrong with eagle cast cranks?
 
That's the smallest cam that Comp makes optimized for MOPARS should work fine if rpm range is ok for you (weight, gears, converter, driving goals)
note one of few times I have ever said a comp cam might be ok
advertised rpm range is most likely for a 360
If asked I'd sell X heads but we are not getting into heads now are we
just check for sunk valves etc and do your thing on them for now
with that lift cut the guides new viton stem seals-- if guides are trash- tilt
If the guides are trashed tilt?
 
Next winter or if you are as I it would be had hoped and last winter :)

used 2.02 J heads you have to watch for recession and all the previous history
I'd rather get the smaller valve heads and put in new valves myself which gives me new seats on the intakes
you can check the installed heights to see if they are all over the place and if so pass
as said do not dump a bunch of money in worn out Iron unless you are restoreing
 
I think X heads may flow a bit better stock but if they are going to be touched up, J heads would yield essentially the same flow after working them both over. You should be able to find 2.02" J heads for half of what X heads go for. If you are saving for a set of Edelbrock or TrickFlow there is no sense in dumping a bunch of money freshening up old iron outside of what you can do yourselft. Find a set that will get you by as is or run what you got.

I've got a new in box example of that XE275HL cam with lifters that I hoped to get installed when the car is down for the winter. I might want to try a solid lifter version so if you are interested, shoot me a pm.
What kind of price were you thinking for it
 
They brake, even with moderate power. Eagle forged cranks are fine.
If I were to throw on some eddlebrock rpm heads with that 525 lift cam (or another decent cam) with true 1.5 ratio rocker arms what is the likelihood that I will push past the 500hp number assuming a 10~ ish to one static comp ratio
 
If I were to throw on some eddlebrock rpm heads with that 525 lift cam (or another decent cam) with true 1.5 ratio rocker arms what is the likelihood that I will push past the 500hp number assuming a 10~ ish to one static comp ratio
In stock form the Eddy heads would probably get you to 420 ish HP with a similar cam. The Eddy's would need porting to get to 500+ hp. If you are curious, check out the race forum for 12 second engine combo's (its stickied to the top of the page)....that sounds like about what you are looking for.

My motors (2 of them) are in the 10 second combo's list is you're curious.
 
In stock form the Eddy heads would probably get you to 420 ish HP with a similar cam. The Eddy's would need porting to get to 500+ hp. If you are curious, check out the race forum for 12 second engine combo's (its stickied to the top of the page)....that sounds like about what you are looking for.

My motors (2 of them) are in the 10 second combo's list is you're curious.
Well shoot now I want to go with a forged crank and h beam rods but if I made that power I would need to build my trans and probably do away with my 8.8 that I had a costom drive line made for. I always forget that speed is just a factor of how deep your pockets are
 
stroker Mc Gurk said
the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic money

incidentally bought a crower cam off their .904 hyd list
218 duration @.050 with more lift than the Racer Brown Above
went into a 383 with 426 crank and ported stock heads, stock exhaust, my special pistons
most likely before Dart was doing cars
 
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If I were to throw on some eddlebrock rpm heads with that 525 lift cam (or another decent cam) with true 1.5 ratio rocker arms what is the likelihood that I will push past the 500hp number assuming a 10~ ish to one static comp ratio
I agree with flyfish. The OOTB ports on the edelbrock head will routinely support 400 - 450 hp when built and calmed for such.

Here are two threads to compare power, parts needed and then you can read into there pricing.

Here is a mild cammed build with edelbrock heads. Just proving you don’t need a ton of cam to make a good street powered mill.
The everyman's 360 LA Eddy headed engine dyno tested

Here is another thread by the same author with ported Edelbrock heads on a 371. (.070-360)
371 build W/Big Mouth heads
 
Well shoot now I want to go with a forged crank and h beam rods but if I made that power I would need to build my trans and probably do away with my 8.8 that I had a costom drive line made for. I always forget that speed is just a factor of how deep your pockets are
Yeah, it snowballs quickly. Mine got a little out of control during a rebuild years ago (2008 I think). I said to myself:
If I have to rebuild it anyway I might as well stroke it since it is about the same price....
Since I'm stroking it I might as well port the heads to take advantage of the extra cubes....
Since I have ported heads I might as well get that big roller cam....
Sine I have the bigger cam I might as well get that 8" converter....
Since I have the ..........yeah, you get the picture.
 
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