5.9 magnum automatic crank

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I am hopefully picking up another dodge truck to replace my 01 ram. This one is also a 01 but it's a 5.9 instead of a 5.2. It needs a transmission the automatic is shot in it. So the plan is to put my manual 5 speed nv4500 transmission in this Truck with the 360. My question is does the 5.9 auto engines have the crank cut for the manual transmission pilot bushing? And if not can this be drilled while in the vehicle? I'm gonna try not to pull the engine if I dont have to. The plan is to drop my pedals and transmission open the new one up install manual pedals and cut the hump for the stick then put the 5speed in. Thanks guys and gals
 
I’ve read the ready to go as far as being able to put the roller bearing in, as opposed to an old-school bushing which I’d rather not use. But if it’s not drilled already I would rather have it done at a shop with this precision work.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’ve read the ready to go as far as being able to put the roller bearing in, as opposed to an old-school bushing which I’d rather not use. But if it’s not drilled already I would rather have it done at a shop with this precision work.
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That was my next question. The difference between the bushing and the bearing. Is that an either or type thing can I choose or does it depend in the transmission shaft and or crank ID?
 
dartfreak75 said:
That was my next question. The difference between the bushing and the bearing. Is that an either or type thing can I choose or does it depend in the transmission shaft and or crank ID?
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If it's not drilled for the bushing, you may have to cut some off the tip of the input shaft, I am not sure. I know in some cases with the older stuff you had to. OR have the crank drilled of course.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If it's not drilled for the bushing, you may have to cut some off the tip of the input shaft, I am not sure. I know in some cases with the older stuff you had to. OR have the crank drilled of course.
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Can the crank be drilled by hand while its still in the vehicle? Or does the crank need to be removed and machined and all that? If the engine has to be tore down to have it machined I would just replace the crank with a manual transmission crankshaft kit like I did my la 360. Then I'd have new bearings and wouldn't have to worry about that.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Can the crank be drilled by hand while its still in the vehicle? Or does the crank need to be removed and machined and all that? If the engine has to be tore down to have it machined I would just replace the crank with a manual transmission crankshaft kit like I did my la 360. Then I'd have new bearings and wouldn't have to worry about that.
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I'm sure some have done it that way, but I wouldn't. Why chance it? It's not like it's rocket science to take it out.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm sure some have done it that way, but I wouldn't. Why chance it? It's not like it's rocket science to take it out.
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Ok thanks I will have a look at it after I pull the transmission and see if its cut for one if not I gues i will pull the engine and and do a rebuild. Hopefully it will be ready for the bushing. I really dont want to build another one right now. I still fony have my first one done Haha.
I guess I should count my chicks yet either I dont even have the truck yet haven't see it yet. It may not be worth buying. Idk
 
I’d want the Precision machinery work done. I’m sure some redneck did it while the engine was still in the vehicle and got away with it but I’d rather have the Percision work done. No offense to the rednecks, y’all do some amazing work with little or nothing to get it done.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’d want the Precision machinery work done. I’m sure some redneck did it while the engine was still in the vehicle and got away with it but I’d rather have the Percision work done. No offense to the rednecks, y’all do some amazing work with little or nothing to get it done.
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GET ER DONE!!
Haha no offense taken. I have done what I had to do and it worked sometimes it does sometimes it dont. Haha but I agree when it comes to something like a precise fit part like a bearing or bushing I'd rather it fit correctly so not to burn the bearing up it 2 seconds and have to start over!
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’d want the Precision machinery work done. I’m sure some redneck did it while the engine was still in the vehicle and got away with it but I’d rather have the Percision work done. No offense to the rednecks, y’all do some amazing work with little or nothing to get it done.
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I agree. Although, if you have a decent drill press and the crank is out, you can do it then and get it dead right. But for the little bit it'd cost at a competent shop, I'd do that.
 
I put a 5.9 mag behind a 4-speed in my old truck.
Just used the pilot bearing, there was plenty of clearance the the manual trans input shaft.
The 5.9 came from an auto van.
 
sireland67 said:
I put a 5.9 mag behind a 4-speed in my old truck.
Just used the pilot bearing, there was plenty of clearance the the manual trans input shaft.
The 5.9 came from an auto van.
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That's awesome what year 5.9?
 
Wyrmrider said:
the bearing goes into the pilot ring for the AT
do check the length of the shaft
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X2, if I remember right you need 2.25” from the end of the crank, to the final depth of the the crank to clear.
Brewers transmissions has the length on their website, and the proper pilot bearing.
 
sireland67 said:
X2, if I remember right you need 2.25” from the end of the crank, to the final depth of the the crank to clear.
Brewers transmissions has the length on their website, and the proper pilot bearing.
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So If the crank end hole is less than that it will have to be machined.
 
It will be noticeably less like 3/4”
I can almost look at a back of a crank and see if it has been drilled far enough, also at least on LA’s to run a normal bushing, it will be finished, not rough drilled.
I just plain forget on the mag, I only built one of them.
 
Also drilling a crank is not worth the expense, just cut 5/8” off the trans shaft, put a 45 degree champher on the end and be done with it.
 
sireland67 said:
It will be noticeably less like 3/4”
I can almost look at a back of a crank and see if it has been drilled far enough, also at least on LA’s to run a normal bushing, it will be finished, not rough drilled.
I just plain forget on the mag, I only built one of them.
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Ok I will check that out.
Is there any difference between the la and magnum crank? Because I was looking them up just in case and I got the same part number for a 2001 as I did for the 75 la crank I bought for my dart 360?
 
sireland67 said:
Also drilling a crank is not worth the expense, just cut 5/8” off the trans shaft, put a 45 degree champher on the end and be done with it.
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Ok cool. If I did that would I still have to have the pilot bushing or does that eliminate the need for that?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Ok I will check that out.
Is there any difference between the la and magnum crank? Because I was looking them up just in case and I got the same part number for a 2001 as I did for the 75 la crank I bought for my dart 360?
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I don’t think so, I put a mag engine on a LA trans, in my old 78 power wagon.
Sold the truck to my idiot neighbor, who runs it like a stock car. Dumb *** ran it out of oil and it never came apart.
He never checked the oil for 3 months and dogged it everyday.
 
sireland67 said:
I don’t think so, I put a mag engine on a LA trans, in my old 78 power wagon.
Sold the truck to my idiot neighbor, who runs it like a stock car. Dumb *** ran it out of oil and it never came apart.
He never checked the oil for 3 months and dogged it everyday.
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That the engine that had the demon carb on it ain't it? I remember we talked about it once before.
 
dartfreak75 said:
That the engine that had the demon carb on it ain't it? I remember we talked about it once before.
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Yes, he is beating the crap out of that poor old truck.
Just last night he said he changed the oil, now the truck idels low, he’s said he needed to adjust the carb.
I said no you need to find up what you screwed up by changing the oil.
 
sireland67 said:
Also drilling a crank is not worth the expense, just cut 5/8” off the trans shaft, put a 45 degree champher on the end and be done with it.
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Now, if you did that, wouldn’t that make the trans only good for that undrilled crank and to short for a normal manual trans crank?
 
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