Patina Paint Job

A car was saved that was going to the scrap yard.
It was mechanically restored and upgraded for performance and safety.
It was worked on as a learning tool for US auto students, 100% funded by the teacher - me. The money in it, exceeds it's value WITHOUT doing body and paint. I'm underwater, but that's ok....its about teaching the kids. My concern and curriculum is MECHANICALS, not auto body (obvoiously)
The HS program does NOT do body and paint....so it would be a complete losing proposition to send it to a body shop.

To get it to a point you would Approve, would be in excess of 20 grand. Yes, I'd have an easier time selling it for 10k, taking a 10k hit.

By not painting, the kids hammerec, welded, bondo-d, spray bombed it .

For those reasons, it way way cooler than a shiny show car that looks exactly like the line of 150 other shiny show cars



uhh if you can do the body work (95% of it is hammering and welding) of a paint job then the extra 1500 -2k for a home spray job would actually help you not be underwater so much. Mine was a total rust bucket bought for a grand (with new convertible top, bucket seat skins and rear seat skins worth approximately 600.00 , so I paid 400.00 for the car. lots of sheet metal work was required. But since it was exactly like my first car and convertible I decided to go for it.. I used Nason paint (lower end paint but color matching was not going to be an issue) and a high good quality clear . total paint cost including base and clear with hardener was 625.00 primer was 135.00 misc sanding supplies and paper were another 150.00 , new devilbiss plus gun cost me 300.00 but it sprays soooooooo nice. harbor freight 12.99 purple gun for the primer. then labor.....oops that was free since I did it in my spare time waiting on my home built cnc to finish up a moneymaking project
yep the firewall to the tail panel had to be replaced. my 65 -V8 convertible triple black car was similar but in much better shape bought for $2500.00, 2k in paint 1k in top and seat covers.carpet and went out the door @ $9,750 talked down from 10,500
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over the hump panel replaced and body squared from a previous hit.
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Well I had most of the driveshaft hump.
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90% of the metal work done and test fitting for square.
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thsi was about the 10th time blocking and primering.
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came out pretty straight too!
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even the door gaps were better than when I pulled it apart. (that was just luck I think)
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Now I have to get off my lazy behind and finish the top install and now that I have the transmission parts ,rebuild it and test it out, engine is done..whew! bumpers will be comming in from tri city plating and ready to go on (very last thing to do on the list.)

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mine does not look like a show car, but it is nice and I could clean the wiring up and other assorted tricks to make it one in a short time.