Is this nut on backwards?

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olddog12

olddog12

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Just acquired this sweet 74 Dart Sport and she needs a manifold gasket. Seems I also have a broke stud on the manifold closest to the firewall. 2 questions to start...

1 - is the nut pictured on backwards?
2 - can you buy the brass washer? (im missing one)
Thanks guys. And great to be back on the A Body Forum!!

download.jpg
 
olddog12 said:
Just acquired this sweet 74 Dart Sport and she needs a manifold gasket. Seems I also have a broke stud on the manifold closest to the firewall. 2 questions to start...

1 - is the nut pictured on backwards?
2 - can you buy the brass washer? (im missing one)
Thanks guys. And great to be back on the A Body Forum!!

View attachment 1715355487
Click to expand...
Those magical little drawers at Ace Hardware have just about everything. And just about any kind of composite of metal. Any new parts you can put back on it will be a plus...
 
olddog12 said:
Just acquired this sweet 74 Dart Sport and she needs a manifold gasket. Seems I also have a broke stud on the manifold closest to the firewall. 2 questions to start...

1 - is the nut pictured on backwards?
2 - can you buy the brass washer? (im missing one)
Thanks guys. And great to be back on the A Body Forum!!

View attachment 1715355487
Click to expand...

One old dog to another, looks ok to me . Maybe the nut behind the wheel is ------ ------ - - - !
 
Thanks fellas.
I tried to remove this last night, there is 1 nut I cant seem to get at though! Any tricks to getting at it? Its on the bottom side slightly to the left of where the 'bowl' for the choke bolts on but you probably figured this is the bolt I was referring to.

Putting this back together looks to be a PITA too.
 
olddog12 said:
Thanks fellas.
I tried to remove this last night, there is 1 nut I cant seem to get at though! Any tricks to getting at it? Its on the bottom side slightly to the left of where the 'bowl' for the choke bolts on but you probably figured this is the bolt I was referring to.

Putting this back together looks to be a PITA too.
Click to expand...
As I recall, it can be done with a socket and extension. But yes PITA for sure. You just kinda aim the socket at it till you feel it engage. Cause you can’t see it as you do it. I ‘cheated’ putting it back on. Had the engine on a stand... and still dropped the damn thing a couple times. Lol
I guess I need to flip those 2 end nuts on mine. I know I researched it when I did it and apparently got it wrong :(
I may still have an extra brass washer if you need it.
Keith
 
The castellated part of that nut (2 end nuts) goes inside the special brass washer. And I do not believe they are standard hardware to be found at Ace, Tru-Value, whatever. Here is the real poop on the whole slanty manifold(s) fasteners deal: Slant 6 Exhaust Manifold Washers
 
69_340_GTS said:
The castellated part of that nut (2 end nuts) goes inside the special brass washer. And I do not believe they are standard hardware to be found at Ace, Tru-Value, whatever. Here is the real poop on the whole slanty manifold(s) fasteners deal: Slant 6 Exhaust Manifold Washers
Click to expand...

This is what I was eluding to without starting a debate.

Brian
 
Doesn't make sense. You don't need a brass washer with a cone ramp on one side. Waste of money.
 
They are a torque prevailing style of nut for a low torque application, why the brass spacer I'm not certain, but it definitely is to allow the manifold to grow w/o binding and developing stresses that result in cracks etc.

It is not a castellated nut as stated.............................
 
Killer6 said:
They are a torque prevailing style of nut for a low torque application, why the brass spacer I'm not certain, but it definitely is to allow the manifold to grow w/o binding and developing stresses that result in cracks etc..
Click to expand...

If you look at and analyze the hardware the very thorough Chrysler engineers (AKA anal retentive) originally specified, it's obvious the central section of the long manifolds, cylinders 3 &4, are clamped to the head as one would expect. But with the triangular and brass washers retaining 1, 2, 5 & 6, they allowed the manifolds to expand and contract through normal heat cycles to prevent cracking of the cast iron.

The brass washers have a lower Friction Coefficient to allow easy movement AND they will not rust to the surrounding ferrous materials, which would lock the manifolds in place and lead to failure.

So my 55 year old 225 still functions like it did when new.

Oh, and follow the torque specs and use Remflex #6008 gaskets.
 
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The long manifolds move with temperature changes, grow when hot and the torque spec is very important as it allows the manifolds to slide on the gasket (thats why its a 1 piece gasket). In order to keep this rather loose torque spec nut on, it has to have some sort of mechanical retention (as opposed to normal bolt stretch) or it would vibrate loose and lose its spec. The spec on the AL intake was a pitiful 10 ft/lbs! The wedge of the tapered end of the nut in the concave washer accomplished this retention.
 
Brass washer flat side toward engine, beveled side facing out.

Flexlock nut with "castle" portion toward engine, flat side facing out.

As shown in pic posted by 69_340_GTS (and described in the FSM...)
 
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Definitely read all the links. The manifold washers and nut must be assembled correctly or the exhaust manifold may later crack. Orientation is not intuitive. I expect that many exhausts have cracked because mechanics didn't take the time to research and ASSumed they knew what they were doing or just winged it.
 
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