Relays for ignition, VR, choke and adding AFR?
I’m using blue/brown wires, ignition #1 & #2 tied together for switching on a new relay.
Relay feeds new HEI/e core coil conversion, VR and alternator field and choke, also adding AFR.
Should any of these be powered separately with another relay?
Or can one do it all?
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
The way these cars came was with the blue VR wire tied in with your blue and brown ignition wires as well as the choke wire.
The ignition doesn't need a relay unless you have a low power situation to your coil. (some do it though anyway)
The alternator field could be on it's own relay if you want, because it does draw some power when it's needed.
Now all that said, here's my opinion and solutions.
I put the VR blue wire on it's own ignition activated relay with only about 16 inches of 14 ga. wire to the battery stud on the starter relay.
This gives the VR a good close read of battery voltage which helps with bouncing voltage.
Everything else can run without a relay at all taking into account your wiring is not causing voltage drops.
I also have a 30 amp "acc relay" under the hood connected direct to the battery stud on my starter relay for other things.
(electric fan, fuel pump, and such)
Then instead of having a fusible link I run a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker for all cabin power including stereo, internal lighting and acc's.
Pretty much all internal and external lighting on my car is LED except for the headlights and those are on relays (one for each bulb filament) so it's not possible to loose both lights at the same time because of one bad relay.
The MAD bypass and LED lighting makes a HUGE difference in available power.
My lights don't dim at idle with the brakes or signals on, nor do my wipers or heater blower slow.
For example, two normal brake light bulbs uses about 5 amps.
My two LED brake lights use less than 1/2 amp for both, so that free's up 4.5 amps for other things.
