340 cam selection

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Dusten

Dusten

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Anyone running the Comp solid Magnum cam 296 duration .525 lift? Wondering how it does on the street and low end torque feel. I have to replace my cam (long story) I have been running the MP purple Hydraulic cam shaft 292 .508 I have really liked it, good on street, sounds good, have run 12.9 at the track. I just thought this will be one of the only times to do a cam change so just exploring all of my options. Maybe there is a better cam out there. My thought was keep the duration the same just add a little lift. I plan to add aftermarket/ported heads in the future and those heads might like a little more lift? Or if it ant broke to fix it, keep the same cam. details 71 Duster 340 stock x heads 2.02 1.60, 10.7:1 compression, headers, wieand stealth dual plane intake, 2,500 stall, 3:91 gears, 28 inch tires. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
Dusten said:
Anyone running the Comp solid Magnum cam 296 duration .525 lift? Wondering how it does on the street and low end torque feel. I have to replace my cam (long story) I have been running the MP purple Hydraulic cam shaft 292 .508 I have really liked it, good on street, sounds good, have run 12.9 at the track. I just thought this will be one of the only times to do a cam change so just exploring all of my options. Maybe there is a better cam out there. My thought was keep the duration the same just add a little lift. I plan to add aftermarket/ported heads in the future and those heads might like a little more lift? Or if it ant broke to fix it, keep the same cam. details 71 Duster 340 stock x heads 2.02 1.60, 10.7:1 compression, headers, wieand stealth dual plane intake, 2,500 stall, 3:91 gears, 28 inch tires. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Probably leave that cam in there and just get a little bit more, 3400 stall , converter.
 
Thats a sweet grind regardless if what has been said by others. If it's been good to you then a converter change as Moparofficial recommends is the power improver. 2500 stall is a bit off for this cam. Dynamic and ptc converters come in 9.5" and can be had in 3500 stall +. Thus will seem like you added more gear.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Probably leave that cam in there and just get a little bit more, 3400 stall , converter.
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QuickDart360 said:
Thats a sweet grind regardless if what has been said by others. If it's been good to you then a converter change as Moparofficial recommends is the power improver. 2500 stall is a bit off for this cam. Dynamic and ptc converters come in 9.5" and can be had in 3500 stall +. Thus will seem like you added more gear.
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LIKE! ^^^^^^^^^^

The Comp, being a solid litter of the same duration will act like a smaller cam but rpm better. IMO, a 1.6 rocker upgrade is always good. This will equal .560 lift score lash on the comp. I netted .510 lift (.1.5 rocker) on my Comp 296S.

Oh! There is always a better cam. Just ask the next 97 posters and there opinions & why the other guys opinion sucks mouse turds.
LMAO
 
Get a 3500 stall. factory 340 cars are 3000 . A 3500 will stall at around 3000 with that 340. "Warning get extra tires"

Nothing beats a solid lift cam. Comp hydraulic lifters are junk. Just went through 3 sets from comp on the last 340. when ever you would start the car cold they would clatter. Crower lifters worked.

We use to put solids right in on the factory hydraulic cams with 273 rockers. What a wake up. It was an easy performance upgrade for street racers back in the day. Solids can be installed on a hydraulic cam. Hydraulics cannot be installed on a solid lift. Solid lift cams are softer .
 
I have to replace my cam(long story) I have been running the MP purple Hydraulic cam shaft 292 .508 I have really liked it
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Current cam is toast, or what?

Imo, the Comp 294S solid cam would be waaay down the list of cams I’d use in that combo.

If you’re looking at stepping up to a solid lifter cam, I’d be looking at the two smallest Lunati VooDoo grinds, or a Comp xs274s or xs282s......... with the two smaller ones being the better choices for that overall combo(340, 2500 converter, 3.91’s).
 
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Oldmanmopar said:
Get a 3500 stall. factory 340 cars are 3000 . A 3500 will stall at around 3000 with that 340. "Warning get extra tires"

Nothing beats a solid lift cam. Comp hydraulic lifters are junk. Just went through 3 sets from comp on the last 340. when ever you would start the car cold they would clatter. Crower lifters worked.

We use to put solids right in on the factory hydraulic cams with 273 rockers. What a wake up. It was an easy performance upgrade for street racers back in the day. Solids can be installed on a hydraulic cam. Hydraulics cannot be installed on a solid lift. Solid lift cams are softer .
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I thought I understood the term stall speed, but maybe I don't. my 2,500 stall in my torque converter seems to be good. I have to rev the engine a considerate amount off idle to get the car to move. Summit sells "performance torque converters" with 2,500 stall. My torque converter was built by a local shop where all the local hot rodders go and he knew all the specs of my engine and car. He has an 8 sec drag car himself. My understanding was 3,500 stall would mostly be for drag racing applications using a trans brake. Maybe I am looking at the wrong spec number though?
 
My factory converters behind a small block stalled at 2800 - 3000. When I used one behind a stock 440 magnum. it brake stalled at 3500-3600. I run a "5500 tight" on the street behind my motor. It drives around pretty normal and pulls out on the street around 2000 on a flat road. car idles at 1500 in gear. Brake stalls around 4000 flashes at 5000 from an idle. My son foot braked the car at 3000.

4x4 trucks low stall converters are 2200 stock. I put a 340 converter in my truck. The truck was not a pig after that. That and a part throttle kick down sevo was the best thing I ever did to that truck. Then I added a Dyers 671. I could almost rip the hitch off a trailer at a stop light. Yes the throttle pressure was still used.

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here's the first of the 97
First what happened so it won't happen again
second can the core be saved
send it to Jim at Racer Brown and have it touched up
more lift will not help stock heads but more lift earlier and longer (more area under the curve) will
actually you can get turbulence with too much lift in stock heads
maybe ask AJ to run the numbers for you to see if the timing can be changed a little
what was your cranking compression?
on converters- is this a street car or what and gears etc
did you do your own stall test or are the stall numbers from the mfg? If so who's converter is it or stock
Make the EDM decision evidently Hylift-Johnson has some- maybe wher most of th grinders get theirs- photo on another post yesterday
what rockers now
if you go roller get the B3 kit and price that into the change
if running roller rockers now get the b3 kit
spring quality has changed check out spring requirements
doing a valve job? at lest ne stem seals- viton
is ashelf cam right in the first place?
If you want to nail the cam specs fill out Jones cams recommendation card online you can't do any better
NEXT
 
I had my local guy do my OE converter up. It’s really sweet. Give them a call or another high quality place.

https://protorque.com/

Wyrmrider has made an excellent suggestion.
However I have noticed no matter who you ask, local street punk, MoPar only forums, speed shop gurus or the pro cam grinders, if you ask 10 people there suggestion/opinion, you’ll get 10 different answers.

I say, choose the duration @.050 your driving in, street, drag or road race, get as much lift on the valve as the heads can handle and choose the LSA according to the task at hand. Street, street strip, racing etc....

That will cover the power numbers within a few hp & tq numbers vs. any cam. Quicker the valve rise the better for performance it will be.
 
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thanks rumble
what I was trying to say..
let's say Aj does his numbers routine and shows you can use some additional Dynamic compression ratio
so you regrind or get a cam a little shorter with as much lift and even more area under the curve for more power
(not hard to do on a MP cam as they are plenty fat so there's plenty to work with )(not so with a pointy nose "universal" profile
now we have the intake closing sooner so we get more torque down low and all the way up if we keep the duration at .200 about the same
which then gives you more stall with your current converter
work what rumble said above about choosing your driving style
 
Oldmanmopar said:
My factory converters behind a small block stalled at 2800 - 3000. When I used one behind a stock 440 magnum. it brake stalled at 3500-3600. I run a "5500 tight" on the street behind my motor. It drives around pretty normal and pulls out on the street around 2000 on a flat road. car idles at 1500 in gear. Brake stalls around 4000 flashes at 5000 from an idle. My son foot braked the car at 3000.

4x4 trucks low stall converters are 2200 stock. I put a 340 converter in my truck. The truck was not a pig after that. That and a part throttle kick down sevo was the best thing I ever did to that truck. Then I added a Dyers 671. I could almost rip the hitch off a trailer at a stop light. Yes the throttle pressure was still used.

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Man your A body is already impressive. But that truck is just as trick!!:thumbsup::steering:
 
The best cam I have seen to run on the street with mostly stock engine parts including valve springs was an oval track cam . It was 302 duration 465 lift it was a torque monster and pulled hard to 6800. It had a rumble harder then the old 471/474 mp cam. A quick slide in up grade for a stock 340.

Now you guys have to remember I am Old school and times have changed. This was the cam of choice when you bought a 340 car. We would install the cam, LD340, and 273/318 65 to 67 rockers.Holley 700 DP. If the car had the 71 and up Ex. manifolds we put headers on. A low budget up grade that worked. and sounded awesome. Like a Stallion at full gallop. LOL.
 
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