360 FBO Ignition no spark

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TRWRacing

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360 MRL with FBO Ignition system with the recommended coil and the ballast resistor is by-passed. It has about 1,000 miles on it and ran fine 3 weeks ago. Stock distributor.

No spark. Fuel is good. Tested coil primary winding 1.0-1.1 ohms and secondary is 9.70 ohms. Not in spec correct? Flame Thrower ignition coil.

What else to test?
 
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A quick google says the the primary should be 0.4-2.0 Ohms and secondary 6k -15k. I'm sure that varies by coil but your secondary looks pretty whacked. I have that coil and an ACCEL Super Coil I can check but it won't be till later.

I know that ignition module wants a specific coil so either find one or get a standard ECU and coil from the parts store to try. Maybe email the FBO guy and see what he says for the coil?
 
Per the FBO ecu led it is solid red and no flashing during cranking, so it is not receiving a signal from the distributor. How do I test that?
 
Check The ignition box. One of my FBO boxes left me stranded once. Now I carry a spare in all my cars.
Just try another one it might fire up, then you know.
Dave
 
My Flame thrower reads 10.15k Ohms on the secondary. The Accel coil is just below 13k Ohms.
Can't help with the rest but I'm thinking a voltmeter might show a pulse but not accurately. Need a scope or dedicated ignition machine?
 
Per this website:
Dave's Place - Chrysler Electronic Ignition System Test
The Distributor Pick-up Sensor resistance should be between 350 to 550 Ohms.
I've seen other sites quotes 150-900 ohms. Confused on which it is?

I tested the pickup coil is showing 293 Ohms. I have an old 340 distributor showing 471 Ohms.

Does the distributor pick up coil appear to be bad?

Thanks!
 
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Tested everything in the ignition circuit this morning and checked out good. Put a parts store ecu on briefly and it started. Calling FBO for warranty replacement tomorrow. It was bought through MRL 3.5 years ago when this engine was built.

Thanks
 
Please report on the warranty support. I have one I’m going to install soon.
 
Don't hook the coil backwards.
It will fry the box and the LED will still be on.

Car was driven last about 3-4 weeks ago and say it the garage. Nothing was changed. Went to start it up to drive and just cranked and cranked without any attempt to start.
 
360 MRL with FBO Ignition system with the recommended coil and the ballast resistor is by-passed. It has about 1,000 miles on it and ran fine 3 weeks ago. Stock distributor.

No spark. Fuel is good. Tested coil primary winding 1.0-1.1 ohms and secondary is 9.70 ohms. Not in spec correct? Flame Thrower ignition coil.

What else to test?
Dumb question - Do you have 12 volts at the coil?
I had an intermittent ignition switch that drove me nuts, replaced switch, no problem.
 
Dumb question - Do you have 12 volts at the coil?
I had an intermittent ignition switch that drove me nuts, replaced switch, no problem.

Voltage at the coil was about within 1 volt of the battery.
 
The LED is red on the FBO ignition box and while cranking it does flash, so no pulse from distributor. Going to confirm that the reluctator gap is correct and vacuum can arm alignment has not jarred anything.

Anyone have the ecu box fail and still have a red led?
 
Tested everything in the ignition circuit this morning and checked out good. Put a parts store ecu on briefly and it started.
curious if you tried hooking the FBO box up again after the ps ecu started the car? just to make sure you don't have wiggled wire syndrome
 
curious if you tried hooking the FBO box up again after the ps ecu started the car? just to make sure you don't have wiggled wire syndrome

I have not, but I had everything apart at least 4 times while testing.
 
Checked the air gap reluctator clearance and it's about the width of business card. Put all back together and it started on the stock parts house ECU. Installed the FBO ECU and it started... tried multiple times. Now what? Wait and see? I can try it again over the course of the week, but I street is getting torn up and redo and the holiday and it will probably be sitting the 4-6 weeks until the curbs and the street is completed.
 
Checked the air gap reluctator clearance and it's about the width of business card. Put all back together and it started on the stock parts house ECU. Installed the FBO ECU and it started... tried multiple times. Now what? Wait and see? I can try it again over the course of the week, but I street is getting torn up and redo and the holiday and it will probably be sitting the 4-6 weeks until the curbs and the street is completed.
If the FBO box now suddenly works you have a wiring issue. Boxes dont fix themselves.
You know have the wiring blues, been then, hated it.
Good luck
 
It sounds like a harness problem.
Summit has the best price.
But I made them aware that the distributor plug isn't right .
Had to splice another one in.
 
If the FBO box now suddenly works you have a wiring issue. Boxes dont fix themselves.
You know have the wiring blues, been then, hated it.
Good luck
That's what I figured but when I tested the ohms resistance at the ECU for pins 4 and 5 it was in spec...

All of these steps checked out to verify working during the no start condition. Plus the cap and rotor were changed as well. Am I mistaken, but a wiring issue would have failed with the distributor pickup test or at the wiring harness test at the ECU.

My ohms resistance at the ECU was about 293 at distibutor pickup connector and ECU wiring harness connector. Voltage while cranking at the distributor lead was about .3 or so.

Steps:
Turn Ignition Switch OFF.
Connect one multimeter lead to the harness connector cavity No. 4 and the other multimeter lead to the harness connector cavity No. 5
Set Multimeter to read Resistance (Ohms)
Verify Distributor Pick-up Sensor resistnace is between 150 to 900 Ohms.
If resistance is correct, go to step 28 (1st Distributor Pick-up Sensor check OK) otherwise continue to next step.

Unplug the Pick-up Sensor (lead from Distributor).
On the Pick-up sensor distributor lead, connect one multimeter lead to one pin in the plug and the other multimeter lead to the other pin in the plug
Verify Distributor Pick-up Sensor resistnace is between 150 to 900 Ohms.
If resistance is correct, the wiring from the ECM plug to the distributor plug is defective. Repair wiring.
If the resistance is incorrect, replace Distributor Pick-up Sensor
NOTE:
If you have a Actron CP9087 Ignition Module and Sensor Testor, perform Sensor Test (Section 2, page 2-46 of the tester manual, Magnetic Reluctance version)


Connect one multimeter lead to the harness connector cavity No. 4 and the other multimeter lead to a good ground
Verify there is no continuity (open circuit; maximum resistance).
If there is no continuity, go to step 31 (2nd Distributor Pick-up Sensor check OK) otherwise continue to next step
Distributor Pick-up Sensor is shorted to ground. Replace Distributor Pick-up Sensor.

Connect one multimeter lead to the ECM pin 5 and the other multimeter lead to a good ground
Verify there is continuity.
If there is continuity, go to step 34 (ECM Ground check OK) otherwise continue to next step.
Tighten bolts holding ECM module to mounting plate. Retry steps 31 and 32. If there is now continuity, got to next step, otherwise replace ECM module.
Reinstall wiring plug to Control Unit (ECM).
All components and wiring to the ECM module have been verified to be working correctly. If there is still no spark to the plugs then the problem is one or more of the following:

Distributor Cap and/or Rotor is defective. Replace Distributor Cap and Rotor.
Distributor Pick-up Air Gap is incorrect. Adjust Distributor Pick-up Air Gap (0.008" Air Gap).
Distributor Reluctor is damaged. Replace Distributor Reluctor.
ECM module is defective. Replace ECM module.

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glad it's working. for now keep the spare ECU in the car, easy swap if you do get sidelined. defiantly sounds like a wiring issue. i've chased the same thing, that's why i asked about re-confirming the failed ECU.
you can't always, but try not to make more than one change at a time when your looking for a problem like this, makes it hard to know what fixed it
 
Check The ignition box. One of my FBO boxes left me stranded once. Now I carry a spare in all my cars.
Just try another one it might fire up, then you know.
Dave
Really? Was it the billet Aluminum one or a Old Black Transistor type ???
I don't recall getting your ECU back under our warranty?
 
I had 2 different boxes fail shortly after the warranty ran out , no support and no more fbo for me either .
 
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