This is what it ran , how much is left in it

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Unless you have a 22.5" rear tire something is WAY off. 6K rpm with 10% slip and a 26" tire should be about 118. Even if you clicked it off at the first light at finish line, you aren't losing that much MPH unless on the brakes. Make sure you check trans fluid level in "N", otherwise it can be a few quarts low.

With those heads and cam it's going to be done around 5400-5600 is my guess. Sounds like a comp XE-HL series camshaft.

The times are about right for a 12.50 set up. 1.70-75 60', 7.9's, 12.50. MPH is pretty close at 1/8th too, 85. It should run low 11's and mid/upper teens for MPH is my guess.

This isn't a launch issue, it's a down the track issue.

The tune must be way off. Jet, fuel delivery, timing. The numbers say the converter is slipping more than 20%. If correct, that's horrible! The converter is the MOST important piece of the puzzle and the place where people cheap out the most!
Your are pretty close on the cheaped out part the converter was given to me by a buddy he said it was a year old and 3000 stall I still need to cheack that and, i cheack the fluid in neutral on level ground , is that correct way ?
 
What converter is in it. I think it should be low 1.6 60 foot time. Mph seems way low to me also.

Sure it's not spinning the tires?

Agree with this..my duster with the 360 60' in the 1.65 range..with my 416 low 1.40's..what air pressure are you running??
 
I'm running almost 108 mph in the 1/4 mile with a smaller cam in my 410 stroked, aerodynamics of a barn door van. I ran a 3.73, then switched to a 4.10 for later mods yet completed (no change in top end mph as of now). I'd say its the tune. Your 60' seems in the ball park. Playing with the carb yielded better times in et/mph in my case.
 
Look at the data - ignore the power rating from the dyno. Once you get the convertor issues and shift rpm ironed out, and the incrementals where they look more reasonable, then take those results as the power level you have for the engine in your car. My impression is it's closer to 400hp in your car vs the dyno. The results based numbers won't mislead you. Assuming the dyno figure is bible will make you spend a lot of money trying to meet the figure.
 
Look at the data - ignore the power rating from the dyno. Once you get the convertor issues and shift rpm ironed out, and the incrementals where they look more reasonable, then take those results as the power level you have for the engine in your car. My impression is it's closer to 400hp in your car vs the dyno. The results based numbers won't mislead you. Assuming the dyno figure is bible will make you spend a lot of money trying to meet the figure.
Agreed the more I read all your responses I’m starting to lean towards the converter but will definitely start with the throttle then the shift points then tuning
 
When is the next time out to the track? Maybe a second set of ears and eyes would help uncover something?
 
Agree with this..my duster with the 360 60' in the 1.65 range..with my 416 low 1.40's..what air pressure are you running??

yea my stock stroke 360 went 1.63 60' with a 3:91 gear and 26" tires.. with worn out 6 cyl leafs, 318 torsion bars and air shocks in the rear it still went a 1.69 60'

shifted at 5900 and went through the traps at like 6100. best time was a 12.17 at 108.9 mph. that was only like 350 hp at the wheels if i remember the math properly.
 
I didn’t pick up on it until it was mentioned, but yeh.......
If you really ran it out through the back door, and it’s truly turning 6k through the lights at only 102mph....... then there is some major slippage going on....... in the converter and/or trans.

So, imo....... this would be the first thing I looked at next time you make some runs.
If these results repeat....... I personally wouldn’t spend anymore time messing with trying to improve the performance until the converter got replaced.

I didn’t see it mentioned what diameter rear tires you’re running, but with a 26” tire, 3.73’s(you’re sure about the gear ratio, right?), 102mph, and 6000rpm....... it’s around 22% slippage.
For a combo like that it should be solidly under 10%.

3.73’s, right around 6000rpm, 26” tire, with 10% converter slippage it would put you at 112mph.

Is the Tac something you have confidence is reading correctly?
 
I didn’t pick up on it until it was mentioned, but yeh.......
If you really ran it out through the back door, and it’s truly turning 6k through the lights at only 102mph....... then there is some major slippage going on....... in the converter and/or trans.

So, imo....... this would be the first thing I looked at next time you make some runs.
If these results repeat....... I personally wouldn’t spend anymore time messing with trying to improve the performance until the converter got replaced.

I didn’t see it mentioned what diameter rear tires you’re running, but with a 26” tire, 3.73’s(you’re sure about the gear ratio, right?), 102mph, and 6000rpm....... it’s around 22% slippage.
For a combo like that it should be solidly under 10%.

3.73’s, right around 6000rpm, 26” tire, with 10% converter slippage it would put you at 112mph.

Is the Tac something you have confidence is reading correctly?
I’m thinking the converter also but this hi performance stuff I’m kinda new to all I used to run was stock motor and trans stuff . So my ? Is would I feel it slipping kinolike a trans ?
 
Since the missing ingredient is tire size, what size are you running?

I'd shift it at 5400-5500 max and see how it goes. JMO, spinning that engine 6K unless it's out the back is just killing parts type stuff. It's done pulling way before that.

Where is the ignition timing? total and initial?
 
The 60 ft times look right for the combo considering the 3000 converter and 3.73 gear. The 1/4 ET is not to far off for the 1/8 ET it runs, should be 12.40s. The 1/8 MPH is about right for the 1/8 ET. Its the 1/4 MPH that's outa whack, it should be around 110. If I had to guess, I'd say the trans is slipping in high gear (burned up high gear clutch pack), which you statement that its going through the traps at 6200 points to.
If the car was running out of fuel bad enough to cause that kind of mph discrepancy it would pop fart bang and act like it shut down.
 
12907"]How about your fuel system? pump and line size?[/QUOTE]
Holly blue Manual fuel pump Went with bigger rule line not sure on the size
 
Where is the ignition timing? total and initial?[/QUOTE]
34 all in at 4000 that’s what blue print call for have not touched it since the brack in
 
I'm running almost 108 mph in the 1/4 mile with a smaller cam in my 410 stroked, aerodynamics of a barn door van. I ran a 3.73, then switched to a 4.10 for later mods yet completed (no change in top end mph as of now). I'd say its the tune. Your 60' seems in the ball park. Playing with the carb yielded better times in et/mph in my case.
12 many I follow your thread for a while I love the van man , what was your 1/4 times with that thing ?
 
12 many I follow your thread for a while I love the van man , what was your 1/4 times with that thing ?
Best is 12.19@107.5+ in cool weather, a couple of 12.25+/- all at same mph. If the drivetrain was in a little better aerodynamic car I'd think it break into the 11's and see 110+ mph. So with my deal I'm doing some parts gathering for this coming winter for just a bit more power to get there, nothing too radical. Want strip results just up to needing a rollbar.
 
727 trans shifting at 6200 crossing the line at 6000rpm I’m guessing on the lbs with me in it 3400
Hooker headers 3 inch with open mufflers not sure of the brand

How tall of rear tire?
With that “ tall” of gear and it only running 102 mph 6k at the stripe sounds like a bunch more than i would have expected
Mine runs 15 or so mph more with a 28 by 10 tire and 4.10 gear. I shifted at that time at 6k and crossed at about 6150
Unless your tires are ultra, ultra short you have something going on with your tranny/ convertor
 
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