1970 Swinger 340 sending unit

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fnabody

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Ok, who makes the best fuel tank sending unit? I have a brand new tank and sending unit and my fuel gauge never worked. All the wiring in the car is 100% new. I removed the wire plug from the sending unit and made a ground wire to ground the plug. When doing so my fuel gauge moves to the full mark leaving me to believe the sending unit is defective. I know its hit or miss with the aftermarket sending units. What's the consensus on the best one available? If I could find a good used or a nos one I'd go that route. Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
 
Are you sure the sending unit is grounded? Stock assembly required a ground jumper over the short rubber fuel line to complete ground path, uses the metal fuel line for ground.
I don't think there's much difference in the aftermarkets replacement senders other than plastic float versus brass float. None of them are accurate. Good luck
 
Yes, I have the proper grounding clip that bridges the connection between the sending unit outlet tube to the metal fuel line.
 
I put this one in 3 years ago and it has been fine: 63-76 A-Body Gas Fuel Tank Sending Unit [3/8"] WITHOUT CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS
Only thing I've noticed different from the OEM one is the length of travel on this one is shorter so the gauge movement is quicker to full and as well to empty. So not as accurate. About 2 years ago until recently they did have an exact OEM style one made in the USA for around $90 IIRC. I don't see it listed now on their site however I would ask them as I think that would be the best option.
 
I used a Meter Match on my aftermarket fuel sender and have it working pretty good.
 
Google meter match. It has its own website. If you buy one and need help, let me know. You will need to change your IVR to solid state to use one if you have not done that.
 
Google meter match. It has its own website. If you buy one and need help, let me know. You will need to change your IVR to solid state to use one if you have not done that.
I've already changed my IRV to solid state which is a bit tricky on the a-body ralley dash. All other gauges work great.
 
If you can get a restored OEM fuel sender that is probably the best option. That would be the easiest. If you use an aftermarket, you will need a Meter Match it get it to work decent.

Mine had an aftermarket sender in it when I bought it, so I just learned how to deal with it.

There are a good gas gauge threads on the site here that explain a lot of it.
 
So does anyone have a source for a rebuilt original sending unit?
 
Mopar junk yard, get a rebuildable unit, send it to Tom, Instrument Specialties. Three hundred dollars or so should take care of it!
 
My '69 Dart, just got it this spring, had a new tank and sender in it. I replaced all of the wiring in the car, new circuit boards too, and they have a solid state voltage limiter. Gauge would not indicate properly, gas tank leaked around sender. Cheap tank, the lock ring mechanism was all streched out of shape. Got a new stainless tank and sender, thinking maybe my old new sender was bad, nope. Called the circuit board guy and he said all of the aftermarket senders were junk, and until someone steps up to the plate, so he told me to get an original sender and send it to Instrument Specialties. The original senders look quite different. I got a sender from Mopar City for 45 dollars + shipping, and then sent it to Instrument Specialties and when Tom called me back he said 250 to rebuild it. My car is out of action till next year, so I can not tell you how well it works. Oh, and if you don't have a lock ring wrench, get one. Also, there are a lot of different lock ring thicknesses floating around out there, gaskets too. Be careful when reinstalling.
 
This sender says it is built to OE specs? Did you notice if the wire wound resistor looked like an original sender? I wasted my time and money on a sender that was not. This may be a winner?
It has been a while since I purchased and installed it. I do seem to remember that it did look just like the OEM one, but I wouldn't swear to it. It works fine. It does have a fuel return nipple that will have to be blocked off for (I think) 70 and up.
 
It has been a while since I purchased and installed it. I do seem to remember that it did look just like the OEM one, but I wouldn't swear to it. It works fine. It does have a fuel return nipple that will have to be blocked off for (I think) 70 and up.
Ok thanks, next time I need a sender I will give Classic Industries a try. I installed
a Spectre? sender in a car several years ago. The gas level readings are basically
full .......and empty. So many posts about this and no simple or cheap solutuions.
I will say that a Original sender can be put in an ultra sonic bath with cleaner and maybe avoid the "rebuild " cost. Some lawnmower shops have baths for cleaning
carbs.
 
Google meter match. It has its own website. If you buy one and need help, let me know. You will need to change your IVR to solid state to use one if you have not done that.
I don't want to correct anyone, but this isn't right. In the directions, it states that you set the rotary dial to 7 when using the Mopar style mechanical IVR. I just installed a Meter Match in my Dart, after looking for years for a stock sender, including posting a want ad on here. My aftermarket sender was either full, or empty. It was $65. Not bad compared to the cost of a rebuilt. Wiring is 4 wires. I set mine starting with an empty tank. used gas cans to measure the amount put in to set the 4 positions on the Meter Match. I don't know if it works well yet, as I just installed it, and haven't driven it.
 
This sender says it is built to OE specs? Did you notice if the wire wound resistor looked like an original sender? I wasted my time and money on a sender that was not. This may be a winner?
Sorry. But typical of the aftermarket, that claim of theirs is flat out lie.

Let's look at the claim and compare to reality:
"quality reproduction fuel sending unit from OER. Designed to exact factory specifications, each fuel sending unit will replace the original in every detail and is officially licensed as a Mopar Authentic Res toration Product, proof of their superior quality and authenticity. Each unit comes complete with fuel sender, seal, premium-grade filter and brass float.

Applications:
1963-76 A-Body with 5/16" outlet
"

To begin with -
"officially licensed as a Mopar Authentic Restoration Product, proof of their superior quality and authenticity."
This marketing BS. It possibly would pass FTC review of misleading claim on some legal precedent or reg defining "authenticity" as something different than meaning an accurate copy.

Maybe someone from Chrysler would like to show us evidence of the vetting procedures and standards to get this license.
The evidence on the consumer side is that there are none.
There are lots of examples of Mopar Authentic Restoration Product that look nothing like the originals.
Take this transmission mount for example.
Used Original p/n 2533145 vs. "Mopar Authentic Restoration Product"
upload_2019-9-9_9-46-59.png
upload_2019-9-9_9-54-31.png


and here is an NOS original if you want to compare new to new. The Mopar Authentic Restoration Product is just a functional replacement. Perhaps better, perhaps worse, than what we can buy at any parts store - who knows?

Now lets look at the next claim:
"each fuel sending unit will replace the original in every detail"
Replace not replicate!
Replace means functional equivalent. So this means they sell an item that doesn't look like the orignal.
Here's a small photo with the original '67 Fuel sending unit from my Barracuda.
Orignal unit is on top. Notice the pickup tube shape, the float arm and the sending unit resistance winding.
upload_2019-9-9_10-11-36.png


here's another original, year not stated.
original-fuel-sending-unit-002-jpg.jpg


Compare that to the "authentic restoration product".
upload_2019-9-9_10-14-6.png

Looks pretty much like all the other 'replica' sending units out there. :(

However we can't even give them credit for providing a functional equivalent.
It's almost certainly not going to always provide a correct fuel reading because the resistance winding doesn't match the float/tank relationship and the gage.
see here:
Fuel Sending Units and A-Body Fuel Tank Map

In conclusion -
"Designed to exact factory specifications" is obviously not true.
It may be correct for some years and models, but certainly not for the early and mid year A-bodies.
In fact the part number changed over the years, which usually means the specifications changed.
for example:
1967 p/n 2257 444
1973 p/n 3621 615

So there is no way this one item can meet the exact factory specifications for all
"Applications: 1963-76 A-Body with 5/16" outlet"

Whether the misleading advertising rises to the level for federal level action, I don't know. At least some state attorney general's might be willing to pursue a case, or at least send a cease and desist type letter,as a matter of consumer protection.
 
Last edited:
Sorry. But typical of the aftermarket, that claim of theirs is flat out lie.

Let's look at the claim and compare to reality:
"quality reproduction fuel sending unit from OER. Designed to exact factory specifications, each fuel sending unit will replace the original in every detail and is officially licensed as a Mopar Authentic Res toration Product, proof of their superior quality and authenticity. Each unit comes complete with fuel sender, seal, premium-grade filter and brass float.

Applications:
1963-76 A-Body with 5/16" outlet
"

To begin with -
"officially licensed as a Mopar Authentic Restoration Product, proof of their superior quality and authenticity."
This marketing BS. It possibly would pass FTC review of misleading claim on some legal precedent or reg defining "authenticity" as something different than meaning an accurate copy.

Maybe someone from Chrysler would like to show us evidence of the vetting procedures and standards.
The evidence on the consumer side is that there are none.
There are lots of examples of Mopar Authentic Restoration Product that look nothing like the originals.
Take this transmission mount for example.
Used Original p/n 2533145 vs. "Mopar Authentic Restoration Product"
View attachment 1715391711View attachment 1715391712

and here is an NOS original if you want to compare new to new. It's just a functional replacement. Perhaps better, perhaps worse than what we can buy at any parts store - who knows?

Now lets look at the next claim:
"each fuel sending unit will replace the original in every detail"
Replace not replicate!
Replace means functional equivalent. So this means they sell an item that doesn't look like the orignal.
Here's a small photo with the original '67 Fuel sending unit from my Barracuda.
Orignal unit is on top. Notice the pickup tube shape, the float arm and the sending unit resistance winding.
View attachment 1715391714

here's another original, year not stated.
View attachment 1715391716

Compare that to the "authentic restoration product".
View attachment 1715391715
Looks pretty much like all the other 'replica' sending units out there. :(

However we can't even give them credit for providing a functional equivalent.
It's almost certainly not going to always provide a correct fuel reading because the resistance winding doesn't match the float/tank relationship and the gage.
see here:
Fuel Sending Units and A-Body Fuel Tank Map

In conclusion -
"Designed to exact factory specifications" is obviously not true.
It may be correct for some years and models, but certainly not for the early and mid year A-bodies.
In fact the part number changed over the years, which usually means the specifications changed.
for example:
1967 p/n 2257 444
1973 p/n 3621 615

Whether the misleading advertising rises to the level for federal level action, I don't know. At least some state attorney general's might be willing to pursue a case, or at least send a cease and desist type letter,as a matter of consumer protection.
Agree, you install it, it will probably leak because of the cheap sender ring, it will register up and down as the gas goes in and out but it won't be accurate. The aftermarket just doesn't copy them close enough to work correctly.
 
Agree, you install it, it will probably leak because of the cheap sender ring, it will register up and down as the gas goes in and out but it won't be accurate. The aftermarket just doesn't copy them close enough to work correctly.
The new rings that come with the senders are terrible. If you have it, save, and use the original.
 
My aftermarket sender was installed when I bought the car. Didn’t work for crap. I have used a Meter Match successfully with an aftermarket sender.

I built a calibration box with information I have got from several threads on this site. I used it instead of emptying the gas tank because I am fundamentally lazy don’t like crawling under the car if I don’t have to. It seems to be about +/- a gallon or two based on my fill ups.

It works by simulating the resistance of the aftermarket sender at four points used to set up the meter match. I selected the values from the shown graph and chart I stole from another thread. All you need to do is hook it up in place of the fuel tank sender and flip switches while you program the meter match. No fooling with gasoline.

If anyone wants to borrow it, I can send it to you, or you can read my resistor values on the box.

1A643E51-BF71-4EB4-A068-1A50632434F8.jpeg


E9843F65-58CF-4946-86BA-F1188E28A5F5.jpeg


0ADC622C-972F-498E-BAAB-594E00358A74.jpeg
 
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