It sounds like you already have a good start with the 1.03" bars, a good set of shocks, boxed LCA's and sway bars.
The next things I would look at are:
Wheel alignment, make sure it isn't set to the factory numbers. You should be looking at something like -.5° camber, +3° (or more) caster, 1/16" toe in
Brakes- if you're still running drums up front, time to upgrade. If you've already done disks, you can investigate going larger, but that will depend on wheel diameter too. You can go up to 11.75" with 15" wheels.
Tires- if you're still running 14's or 15's with BFG T/A's, you're leaving a lot of grip on the table. 17" or 18" wheels with modern tread and rubber compounds will dramatically improve handling if you're not hung up on the classic look. And again that depends on the use of the car, for a street car it's not as big a deal, but for more serious handling it's a must
Upper control arm bushings or tubular UCA's- With manual steering you may not want to go crazy with positive caster, but the more you run (up to about +6.5°) the more stable your handling will be. With offset UCA bushings most folks can normally get up to about 3.5° of caster, more than that will take tubular UCA's which should get you close to +5°. More than that and you'll need adjustable UCA's, like the SPC pieces sold by BergmanAutocraft. But again, with manual steering you may not want to go with that much, it increases steering effort too.
Chassis stiffening- if you don't already have subframe connectors and torque boxes, that would be a good place to start. Obviously there's more, lower radiator supports, shock tower reinforcement etc, but you may not want/need all that for a street car.
Solid tie rod sleeves- they'll help, they're easy to install. You don't need the larger diameter C-body ends (11/16"), the slop in the tie rods comes from the original split sleeve design. Go with solid tube sleeves and the factory 9/16" ends and you're fine, the larger tie rod ends just get in the way of tire clearance and aren't the weak link anyway
Adjustable strut rods- these depend on your LCA bushings, if you have stock rubber LCA bushings you probably don't NEED them. If you have poly or Delrin LCA bushings I would strongly suggest going to adjustable strut rods. They let you fine tune the strut rod length, which will eliminate any binding in the LCA travel. The factory strut rods were just kind of a "one size fits all" deal, and at least from my experience they were mostly just "close enough". Not terrible, but not ideal either. It's a minor point if you have rubber LCA bushings still, but it may still be an improvement
