Starter ?

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Gerald bellows

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Starter on my 1964 225 acts weird sounds like its spinning but not engaged going junkyarding what years will work so i will have a spare or will I have no problems with one from parts store
 
Yup, you need to replace the starter. Sooner than later; it's telling you it's about to quit all the way.

Parts store "remanufactured" starters are junk. They fail early and often, and they sound like hell because they're thrown together from mismatched parts, and the "lifetime warranty" means you get to spend your lifetime exchanging failed starters.

There is no reason or need to spend a big pile of cash. If you want an original-type starter, you can get a new (not "remanufactured") Chrysler unit from Old Car Parts Northwest. Interchange is '62-'87 Slant-6 and V8; they're not all identical but they're all interchangeable.

If you want a mini starter, you can have one. The Nippondenso mini starters used after '88 lighter, stronger, faster, draw less current, and are longer-lived. They just don't sound original, is their only problem. Dealbreaker for me; the "Highland Park Hummingbird" starter motor is a major piece of the experience of driving an old Mopar, and it's one of my earliest memories, so I like to preserve it rather than having my old Mopar sound like a Toyota when I crank it—but objectively, functionally, the newer starters work better.

The one you'd need comes from any '89-'01 RWD Mopar 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9 engine. That mostly means Dodge trucks (Dakota + Ram) and full-size vans. The '01 stop year is because later starters do not have an enclosed nose cone that fits in the round recess in the bellhousing. Using an open-top (no nose cone) starter on an earlier application causes misalignment and early starter death.

Be sure and get a genuine starter with a Chrysler, Denso, or Nippondenso nameplate on it. The Chinese copycats flooding the market (advertised at parts stores as "100% new!") are inferior.

Sometimes the original hookup locations are inconvenient. There are multiple different connectors available, though, to solve that issue. See here here for connection options.
 
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Thanks knowing what's going on makes it easier to deal with always wondered what they used to rebuild them so cheap
 
Yup, you need to replace the starter. Sooner than later; it's telling you it's about to quit all the way.

Parts store "remanufactured" starters are junk. They fail early and often, and they sound like hell because they're thrown together from mismatched parts, and the "lifetime warranty" means you get to spend your lifetime exchanging failed starters.

There is no reason or need to spend a big pile of cash. If you want an original-type starter, you can get a new (not "remanufactured") Chrysler unit from Old Car Parts Northwest. Interchange is '62-'87 Slant-6 and V8; they're not all identical but they're all interchangeable.

If you want a mini starter, you can have one. The Nippondenso mini starters used after '88 lighter, stronger, faster, draw less current, and are longer-lived. They just don't sound original, is their only problem. Dealbreaker for me; the "Highland Park Hummingbird" starter motor is a major piece of the experience of driving an old Mopar, and it's one of my earliest memories, so I like to preserve it rather than having my old Mopar sound like a Toyota when I crank it—but objectively, functionally, the newer starters work better.

The one you'd need comes from any '89-'01 RWD Mopar 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9 engine. That mostly means Dodge trucks (Dakota + Ram) and full-size vans. The '01 stop year is because later starters do not have an enclosed nose cone that fits in the round recess in the bellhousing. Using an open-top (no nose cone) starter on an earlier application causes misalignment and early starter death.

Be sure and get a genuine starter with a Chrysler, Denso, or Nippondenso nameplate on it. The Chinese copycats flooding the market (advertised at parts stores as "100% new!") are inferior.

Sometimes the original hookup locations are inconvenient. There are multiple different connectors available, though, to solve that issue. See here here for connection options.[/QUOTE

Good to hear from you SSD...hope all is well with you and yours. As always we really appreciate you taking the time to enlighten us FABOers with a correct and very detailed answer on all things MOPAR.
All the BEST to you,
Greg
 
If you’re on a budget, as am I, I got a Dakota starter, like SlantsixDan spoketh of. It came from a recycler three or so years ago....so far, so good. Bolted right up!
 
If you get a bone yard starter like Dan speaks of get the harness from the starter to the battery too.
 
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