360/5.9 stock cam specs

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Have you tried calling the manufacturer? I believe Sealed Power is owned by Federal Mogul. I bet they could give you the specs.
 
mopowers said:
Have you tried calling the manufacturer? I believe Sealed Power is owned by Federal Mogul. I bet they could give you the specs.
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Haven't called them but did check the web site. Probably will have to call them. Can't seem to find anything more than lift and duration.
 
I wrote in another thread to check other oem catalogs like Melling and Elgin
you can compare with what you know and add additional info to your database
remember that there is both a single pattern and split pattern oem cam (and short nose/ long nose versions)
post what you find out
There used to be a sealed power spec catalog
the 318 5.2 cam also has variations and in some cases has more duration- go figure
you running carb or FI? manifolds or headers any other changes
I have a 92 sequential (multiport) EFI 5.2 I have 1.6 pedestal rockers
aside from home ported MP heads (mostly bowls) (stock got overheated and cracked) quarter million miles, burns no oil I run eurospec 0w-40 did change the timing chain- recommended
 
rockauto has links to the manufacturers specs for some items including cams
 
This is what I found at Elgin thanks @Wyrmrider
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It's the only timing specs I've been able to find.
 
first ignore the lifter- that's the FT HYD AMC STYLE
you have the intake and exhaust lobe centers and can calculate the lca AS 113 + 115 / 2
dbl check duration and lift to be sure it matches sealed power-use interchange
could match the E 1807-S
do you need new lifters?
find a take out or pick a part cams are usually good
 
Wyrmrider said:
first ignore the lifter- that's the FT HYD AMC STYLE
you have the intake and exhaust lobe centers and can calculate the lca AS 113 + 115 / 2
dbl check duration and lift to be sure it matches sealed power-use interchange
could match the E 1807-S
do you need new lifters?
find a take out or pick a part cams are usually good
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I don't need a new cam or lifters but when the engine was out I pulled the timing chain and am not sure I used the correct marks to line it back up. I want to use the timing events to check it before I tear the front of the motor apart...again (and ALL the other crap that has to be done to get to it while its in the car).
 
what brand chain- google instructions
do you have a degree wheel?
start by dbl checking tdc
you will be looking for 113 degrees after the tdc of the EXHAUST stroke overlap\
figure out where the distributor should be pointing 180 degrees from #1
then go 113 degrees from that tdc and you should be at the peak of the intake lobe
 
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Wyrmrider said:
what brand chain- google instructions
do you have a degree wheel?
start by dbl checking tdc
you will be looking for 113 degrees after the tdc of the EXHAUST stroke overlap\
Click to expand...
Don't know the brand timing chain. Supposedly stock but it was a double roller. Don't know when a double roller was ever stock. I have a degree wheel. I don't need to know the exact degree. It's probably going to be about 30* off so if its not anywhere near 113*...gotta take it apart. TDC was checked recently as I wanted to put a timing tape on the balancer. Used a piston stop and marked the stop point before and after TDC, etc.
 
HD came with a roller
just get it on the right tdc not the firing tdc rotor will tell you which
or you can use your thumb to find pressure on compression stroke- you want one more turn
or watch the rockers- etc
 
Wyrmrider said:
HD came with a roller
just get it on the right tdc not the firing tdc rotor will tell you which
or you can use your thumb to find pressure on compression stroke- you want one more turn
or watch the rockers- etc
Click to expand...
I'm planning on using my magnetic base w/dial indicator. That is if I can get the base to grab the head good enough. I'll watch the rocker arm to see when I'm getting close the check it with the dial to make sure when I'm at the top of the lobe.
 
If the intake is off you can use another method
just crank the engine over to TDC #1, on compression
Then go to #6 cylinder. Lay a straight edge over the tops of the lifters, leaning against the pushrods. Then gently hand-crank the the engine over,usually backwards, until the straightedge is touching the lifters on 4 points, two on each lifter; outboard-inboard-inboard-outboard. Then continue a few degrees in reverse. Then go back again and take up the chain slack in the normal direction, and stop when the edges line up again.. That is split overlap.
Now go read the timing marks, It should be within 4 or at most 5 degrees of before TDC. The Ica number establishes the split overlap. When you install the cam according to the camcard, you are establishing the Split overlap, pure and simple. But it is just more accurate using the camcard than the method I suggested. But on a stocker, accuracy is not that big a deal, as long as it falls between zero and 4 or 5 degrees of TDC on the advance side, it will run just fine. With a stretched chain, it may not fall into the range.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If the intake is off you can use another method
just crank the engine over to TDC #1, on compression
Then go to #6 cylinder. Lay a straight edge over the tops of the lifters, leaning against the pushrods. Then gently hand-crank the the engine over,usually backwards, until the straightedge is touching the lifters on 4 points, two on each lifter; outboard-inboard-inboard-outboard. Then continue a few degrees in reverse. Then go back again and take up the chain slack in the normal direction, and stop when the edges line up again.. That is split overlap.
Now go read the timing marks, It should be within 4 or at most 5 degrees of before TDC. The Ica number establishes the split overlap. When you install the cam according to the camcard, you are establishing the Split overlap, pure and simple. But it is just more accurate using the camcard than the method I suggested. But on a stocker, accuracy is not that big a deal, as long as it falls between zero and 4 or 5 degrees of TDC on the advance side, it will run just fine. With a stretched chain, it may not fall into the range.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info AJ. The engine is all together atm.
 
oldie but goodie AJ
and that is near enough for him to see if he is a tooth or stamp on the gear off
BUT FOR DISCUSSION ONLY
It's what we used to call "split overlap"
but only totally accurate for single pattern non-asymetrical designs
you get where the split height is the same but not a good indication of the opening and closing points
everyone can work through how to get 4 degrees advanced
but with a dual patter cam that's say has a 10 degree longer exhaust?
or has different durations and is asymetrical to boot (like a stock mopar cam with a much longer closing ramp than opening)
or much different "intensities"
similar problem with
"what is the lobe center of an asymetrical lobe"
we all punt and say the high point
but then we have a lobe with a rolled over nose and a wide "high point" what then?
back to the .050-.050?
 
Update -
Checked the CAM timing to compare to the specs I got for 1990 360 stock cam from Elgin. Specs listed 15* ATC @ .050 tappet rise. I came up with that balls on!. So I DON'T have to take apart the front of the motor...WOOHOO!

Thanks for the replies!:thumbsup:

Now...if I could only afford a new cam, etc....
 
Way to go Dart_68 what Elgin PN?
I'll have to check my vin to see if the same one as in my 92 Dakota
Slantsix64 just got his reground to what look like MP Magnum RT specs (did NOT come in Magnum RT trucks)
stay in touch with him to see how it turns out
he has a thread here somewhere
 
you have a non-magnum engine in a 92?
 
I have a roller cam Magnum
Slanty has a late roller LA with the late heads and what the book says is the same cam (do I trust the book to have an exact replacement?)
talked with Slanty he has a 318
I'm going to loan him my dial indicator and will check-
Ill post back NO fuel pump eccentric he is going to order from Hughes
(any other sources?) short nose
 
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That looks wonky! The centerline is all crossed up and the Ica ends up at ~71*; that'll "bleed" pressure allrightee.
I wonder what the thinking is.
I'm guessing the exhaust in that head is just too powerful for the intake side
 
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