New Duster dash!!

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TheDuke

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Houston, TX
Hello all! I recently decided to redo my dash. I asked a bunch of people if I should repair my factory dash or upgrade to a new more modern style one. After much debate and a near 50/50 split in opinions I decided to do a combination of both ideas.
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I started with the 1967 series gauge set from New Vintage USA. The gauge set came with a backing plate to mount your gauges on but it was plastic and flimsy so I decided to cut my own template out of 1/4 inch plexiglass.
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After curing the holes and fitting the gauges in place I added some chrome bezel LEDs as turn signals and a woodgrain textured vinyl decal on top and a leather textured vinyl decal on the bottom with a 1/4 inch piece of auto trim. All of which I got from amazon for maybe $80ish bucks in total!
 
Awesome! I love the original look, yet custom gauge's, looks like the factory should've done it, great job!
 
Looks like a factory job. Really awesome. A buddy of mine is redoing a 74 duster, and undecided on leaving it stock or modding it for aftermarket gages. I need to show him this.
 
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Before you wire it up I would put it in and see if the steering wheel blocks any gauges maybe move the oil pressure next to the tach, more important than the fuel gauge.
 
On new vintage gauges, I had to shorten the studs in the rear of the tachometer because they interefered with the steering column/pedal support assembly in the dash frame. I also added a chrome bezel brake light. I kept the N/V gauge plate and green turn signal indicators but replaced the blue high beam led with a softer output low voltage red one. That looks awesome though, I wish I had done something like that with the plexiglas and carbon fiber overlay now! Another side note is you want to tie a separate ground in. I used a long lead that goes from a grounding point on the fender well and grounds under a screw on the voltage regulator before passing through the firewall to the cluster. I used the blue with white tracer switched power from the key to power a relay mounted on the fender well for two separate fused hot leads. A 16 gauge fusible link from the starter relay post supply’s power to the relay. One hot with a one amp fuse to the gauges and another hot to the fuel pump switch mounted on the gauge plate. Just thought I’d share with you because doing it like this helped the operation of my gauges, the key switch power gets a little sketchy after 50 years (kinda like me)
 
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On new vintage gauges, I had to shorten the studs in the rear of the tachometer because they interefered with the steering column/pedal support assembly in the dash frame. I also added a chrome bezel brake light. I kept the N/V gauge plate and green turn signal indicators but replaced the blue high beam led with a softer output low voltage red one. That looks awesome though, I wish I had done something like that with the plexiglas and carbon fiber overlay, though.
I had to clearance the pedal support for the speedometer cable. But that's on the left for me.
 
On new vintage gauges, I had to shorten the studs in the rear of the tachometer because they interefered with the steering column/pedal support assembly in the dash frame. I also added a chrome bezel brake light. I kept the N/V gauge plate and green turn signal indicators but replaced the blue high beam led with a softer output low voltage red one. That looks awesome though, I wish I had done something like that with the plexiglas and carbon fiber overlay now! Another side note is you want to tie a separate ground in. I used a long lead that goes from a grounding point on the fender well and grounds under a screw on the voltage regulator before passing through the firewall to the cluster. I used the blue with white tracer switched power from the key to power a relay mounted on the fender well for two separate fused hot leads. A 16 gauge fusible link from the starter relay post supply’s power to the relay. One hot with a one amp fuse to the gauges and another hot to the fuel pump switch mounted on the gauge plate. Just thought I’d share with you because doing it like this helped the operation of my gauges, the key switch power gets a little sketchy after 50 years (kinda like me)


Just a FYI the high beam indicator has to be blue in the state of Ohio.

It is so it's not mistaken for something else. A State Highway Patrol Man explained it all to me, mine was also red till I changed it to blue.
 
Just a FYI the high beam indicator has to be blue in the state of Ohio.

It is so it's not mistaken for something else. A State Highway Patrol Man explained it all to me, mine was also red till I changed it to blue.
I guess even though the factory one was red they probably don't let you grandfather in a red one if you replace the factory dash. I haven't checked the Va law on that yet, but don't drive it at night anyway, too many critters (deer and now elk) and crazies (worse yet) out anymore. When the sun goes down, the roaches come out!
 
I also like the look. Looks enough stock with a tasteful custom appeal! I admit to being pretty much purist in general also. A day 2 type.

Congrtats on a very good job!
 
I guess even though the factory one was red they probably don't let you grandfather in a red one if you replace the factory dash. I haven't checked the Va law on that yet, but don't drive it at night anyway, too many critters (deer and now elk) and crazies (worse yet) out anymore. When the sun goes down, the roaches come out!

Garrett,
I don't remember a red one, my cars have always been blue. I might be mistaken but what year is yours?
 
Its the factory gauge bezel, it has to be cut and the aftermarket gauges fitted into it. It's a pretty labor intensive affair. That factory plastic makes some really memorable smells when you start grinding and cutting them.
 
Another place where Chrysler dropped the ball, when they dropped Rally dash in 72 why didn't they make it an option like everyone else did.
 
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