Cheap 318 build questions

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HP2

HP2

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Just want to put a cheap engine together to haul around with in my 70 Sweptline.
I enjoy being cheap and buy as little as possible.
Haven't any experience from 318's so I need some advice.
Truck is a Power Wagon with manual tranny. Want to wake her up a little. Don't want a screamer, just some more grunt.

I have the original 318 coming out today. It barely runs. Checked compression and it has all from 80-90 to 145 psi. I plugged in compressed air and listened for valve leaks but they seemed to be okay. 2bbl carb needs job. Original points ignition.
The other engine is from the late 80's with roller cam and swivel closed chamber heads. Did a leak down test before I took it apart and it has bad leaking valves.
Bores look pretty good (for my purpose). Some home honing and new rings will be needed regardless what block I use.

The original exhaust manifolds will stay on.
I have some LA 4-bbl intakes and a bunch of different carbs.
Will buy new cast iron rings but bearings only if needed.
Hope to be able to use some of the original valve springs.

Are the swivel heads a better choice than original or will the compression ratio be too high?
Summit have cam kits for 120 dollars for the older engine, what cams should I look for for the newer roller cam engine? Or - what block is better?
 
What gears, tires and transmission? Any mileage or driving requirements? If your going to stay small block and want grunt, go with a 360. But having friends who hoard parts, I'd go 400 B engine.
 
I would remove the 302 swirl port heads and see if they need a valve job, if the ring seal is OK, then just service the heads or just lap the valves. Pocket port those heads
and put in new springs (remove the exhaust rotators). Sent the roller cam out to
Oregon or Delta cams for a MILD regrind less than 210 degrees, dont put a cheap
flat tappet cam in regrind is less $$ anyway
I can appreciate the CHEAP aspect to your question!
I
 
Original 70 318 would have semi closed chamber 675 heads wouldn't it? Check out 318willrun's homepage for porting directions and RustyRatRods guide to hotrod bliss.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Original 70 318 would have semi closed chamber 675 heads wouldn't it? Check out 318willrun's homepage for porting directions and RustyRatRods guide to hotrod bliss.
Click to expand...
Exactly! 2 great 318 threads. There are hundreds here. Low buck would be picking up a $100 teen in good shape and swapping it out.
 
318 high swirl roller motor or early 90's magnum runner with an edelbrock performer and an HEI conversion with factory electroic distributor. Put it in and go!
 
Warning!

“80-90 & 145” is a clear sign that engine is half way to toast. Use the late ‘80’s engine.

On the ‘80’s engine, it would be my opinion to spend the money on a roller cam to replace the roller cam. If the lifters are fit for re use, great! If not, there cheap to replace. VERY CHEAP TO REPLACE!

Keep the heads on top and just swap out the intake for a dual plane OE iron unit or a Performer. Use a 600 cfm carb. Don’t sweat the port mismatch.

Finish up the engine with dual exhaust and upgrade the ignition. Contact Johnnymac for a ready to run distributor. Very inexpensive and it’s the same dang thing as a MSD.
Mine works great!

Give us the vehicles weight, tire size and gear ratio.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
318 high swirl roller motor or early 90's magnum runner with an edelbrock performer and an HEI conversion with factory electroic distributor. Put it in and go!
Click to expand...
That’s basically what I did when I raided my daughters wrecked ‘00 Durango. I grabbed the 5.9, installed a RPM intake, 600 cfm carb, old electronic distributor fired by a Chrome box and added headers w/2-1/2 exhaust piping. I used a trap door air cleaner and I was done.

Simple, effective, an excellent example of pirating for re use in an older machine. An easy 300 hp engine.
(Or right close to it.)
I had to use a B&M flexplate for a neutral balance converter and a electric fuel pump.
 
rumblefish360 said:
That’s basically what I did when I raided my daughters wrecked ‘00 Durango. I grabbed the 5.9, installed a RPM intake, 600 cfm carb, old electronic distributor fired by a Chrome box and added headers w/2-1/2 exhaust piping. I used a trap door air cleaner and I was done.

Simple, effective, an excellent example of pirating for re use in an older machine. An easy 300 hp engine.
(Or right close to it.)
I had to use a B&M flexplate for a neutral balance converter and a electric fuel pump.
Click to expand...
And quite efficient. That would be a great mill for a hot rod or a truck like the OP has.
 
toolmanmike said:
And quite efficient. That would be a great mill for a hot rod or a truck like the OP has.
Click to expand...
Exactly!!!

I’m now saving up for a camshaft for it. Then a reworking if the torque converter, then heads, then I’ll call it quits. For the cruiser I want it to be, it’ll be great.
 
Exactly what Rob says with the late 318 high swirl roller engine. If the budget allows it, there are some real stump puller roller cam profiles available.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Warning!

“80-90 & 145” is a clear sign that engine is half way to toast. Use the late ‘80’s engine.

On the ‘80’s engine, it would be my opinion to spend the money on a roller cam to replace the roller cam. If the lifters are fit for re use, great! If not, there cheap to replace. VERY CHEAP TO REPLACE!

Keep the heads on top and just swap out the intake for a dual plane OE iron unit or a Performer. Use a 600 cfm carb. Don’t sweat the port mismatch.

Finish up the engine with dual exhaust and upgrade the ignition. Contact Johnnymac for a ready to run distributor. Very inexpensive and it’s the same dang thing as a MSD.
Mine works great!

Give us the vehicles weight, tire size and gear ratio.
Click to expand...

I have decided to follow your tips and go with that 80's engine. Heads are 302's and I have worked on them today, the valves are tight and sealing now. Don't have time for any porting except for matching the intake.
Haven't had time for looking what I have but I should have an iron dual plane that will work. Think I have a 600 or 650 carb too.
Will build a 2.5" inch dual H-pipe exhaust since I have a pair of 2.5 Flowmaster lying.
I'll try to recurve the original point distributor and limit the advance. Cheap you know ;)

Just swapping the cam and re use the lifters sounds like a good idea. Where can I buy one?
I'm in Sweden so I need to find someone willing to ship overseas.

Guess truck weighs around 4600. Have no clue about gearing but I'd be surprised if it's not something like 4.10. Tires are 235/75-15 but I hope I can find some used 32"
 
HP2 said:
I have decided to follow your tips and go with that 80's engine. Heads are 302's and I have worked on them today, the valves are tight and sealing now. Don't have time for any porting except for matching the intake.
Haven't had time for looking what I have but I should have an iron dual plane that will work. Think I have a 600 or 650 carb too.
Will build a 2.5" inch dual H-pipe exhaust since I have a pair of 2.5 Flowmaster lying.
I'll try to recurve the original point distributor and limit the advance. Cheap you know ;)

Just swapping the cam and re use the lifters sounds like a good idea. Where can I buy one?
I'm in Sweden so I need to find someone willing to ship overseas.

Guess truck weighs around 4600. Have no clue about gearing but I'd be surprised if it's not something like 4.10. Tires are 235/75-15 but I hope I can find some used 32"
Click to expand...
 
Summit racing or Jets will international ship.

If you do headers, Summit Racing has generic street headers with a thicker than average flange @ 3/8 thick. (9.58 mm)
image.jpg
31B0A3E2-1EAF-41B6-AA84-E9618D5AD69E.jpeg
 
rumblefish360 said:
Summit racing or Jets will international ship.

If you do headers, Summit Racing has generic street headers with a thicker than average flange @ 3/8 thick. (9.58 mm)
View attachment 1715360285 View attachment 1715360290
Click to expand...
Would be nice with headers but I have to stay with the manifolds...
I can't find any good (and cheap) roller cam. Will do some phone calls tomorrow and see what it costs to have it re grounded here.
 
fyi here are some specs on stock HR cams available from Elgin Industries and Melling on the lift IDK 1.5 or 1.6 rockers are assumed
lift@cam duration @.004 .050 part# year
387in 253/266 184/193 MC 1309 HR 94-- (Melling)
.403ex

.398 270/259 205/196 MC1262 HR 92-93 (melling)
timing overlap
.270 276/271 197/195 15 32 32 17 62 113/113 114LCA E 1722-S HR (go figure on the lca) Elgin
(.405 with 1.5 rocker)
obviously the .398 lift 270 duration cam would be easier to regrind
take a look at slantsix64's thread for a cam card for a regrind to RT specs
318 budget build (near the bottom)
Oregon cams gives .002 and .006 data and not .004 and with the big spread between 2 and 6 lift .004 could be anywhere in between
you can read about the challenges on getting a higher performance lobe to fit the stock lobes
 
Lunati also has some long snout (for mechanical fuel pump) HR cams.

The one I got has a .517 lift at 1.6 ratio and is just under where machining the guides comes into play (on magnum heads, you probably want to check what the 302s can do safely).

The LA roller should be 1.5 rockers, so that lift would be less

The HR cams are considerably more $$ than a flat tappet (like 3x), but you don't have to buy lifters since HR lifters are resealable, so that takes away some of the sting.

Springs will likely also come into play.
 
HP2 said:
Would be nice with headers but I have to stay with the manifolds...
I can't find any good (and cheap) roller cam. Will do some phone calls tomorrow and see what it costs to have it re grounded here.
Click to expand...
Here’s the thing, a roller cam isn’t cheap, period. There in the area between $300 & $350.

Here is why you STOP penny pinching and start thinking!

Swapping to a FLT Hyd. cam looses you power (vs the same spec roller cam) and will cost close to the same as a roller cam by the time you purchase a cam, lifters and pushrods to replace what you already have.

Spend once on a roller cam and that’s it! Done! IF you need roller lifters, they are cheaper than Hyd. flat tappet lifters.

Stop being cheap.
Figure out your gear ratio.
 
I have a Delta #836-203-2
Lobe sep. 109.3 avg
lift .451 intake .470 exh.
Dur @.050 205.2 intake 208.7 exhaust

Reground from stock 88 318 roller
Advanced 4 deg (timing chain)
idle 20in Hg @800 rpm
VERY strong bottom end pulls to 5500
Performer with 570 Holley Avenger
Ported 302 heads stock valves
22mpg hwy ? city mpg on 87 oct.
 
...and let's not forget the foolproof break in with a roller cam.
 
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