340inabbody
Well-Known Member
Thanks will do! By the way the shop DID re-align the sprockets correctly and the timing now makes sense as measured in the car running! So thats a good thing.
Vacuum/Mechanical Advance Dilemma SB340
- Thread starter 340inabbody
- Start date
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512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Vvvvery Interestinggg!
Listening intensely.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
If you want to go the route of doing a custom distributor with a vacuum advance give Don a call at FBO Ignitions he is a great guy and he will help ya. Don built a distributor for my 340 and it runs very well for what it is.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
OK great, so we can scratch that off the list at least for now.
Try bumping the initial ignition advance up to 18-20 degrees and see how that helps the idle, just don't drive it obviously because the total advance will be too much. If that makes it better then proceed to re-curve your mechanical advance. Then move on to tuning the carb, first getting the idle mixture and speed dialed in.
I have been playing with these cars a long time . Keep the 355's and get a 3500 converter. The only thing you will need after that is new tires every month
The car was heavy at 3650. It did 128 in a quarter but it was still pulling hard in drive. Calculated top speed? The recall would read 9300 if I would over wind it when it was to far gone sideways to shift. And it had no problem winding that car tight in drive to 8500.
The motor would wind up. But the body and steering said slow the hell up. You have to keep the air from under these old cars . They would lift at those speeds and it becomes scary real quick. I Tied the front down and prevented lift with bump stop extensions. It kept the front down and helped the 60 foot times. The new car will be very light so We should be good with 456's. It was quicker with 488's at that weight, We have new gears , 430's to try and the weight will be around 2800.
My 428 batten motor made 600+@7200 at the crank 686 lift 1000 BLP carb.. This 416 indy motor made 800+@7900 at the crank. Much bigger cam ?? and 1050 quick fuel carb. the 416 was balanced withing a 1/2 gram. Balancing means a lot
The car should have been much quicker. The top rings were shot from street driving and getting it hot with a bad rad.
The new motor is the same except Smiths push rods for less flex , total seal rings, Kings heat treated bearings and the T&D rockers were corrected.
What you have to take into consideration is this car was all steel completely original . Full interior, stereo and amp. spare still fastened in the trunk to hold the factory gas tank up as designed. It also was running through mufflers and tail pipes.
All that factory stuff is going in my Demon. This drive train is now going in a look a like orange Duster to mine but a 25.5 light weight chassis car . Can't wait to see how it goes in a light car
My son driving it out of the driveway on its last day.
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I was elated until I seen the last two pics, then suddenly heartbroken. I really hate seeing that happen to your car, there wasn’t anything about the way you had it looking and running I didn’t like. What is the 25.5 lightweight class?
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Ouch!
With a brick and some coal oil that may rub out LOL
Sorry I had too
Hope no one got hurt
I had to post this again I love the sound. You had to hear and feel this motor from inside driving it. It was like no other SB "street car" I ever drove.
This distributor is locked and drive-able on pump gas. My son has built some radical motors and they stay together for many race seasons. We had Ryan at "Shady dell" build one for us years back . It never made it out of the driveway.
I miss this car , I wrecked it twice. This time hit me the hardest. I am not getting any younger. It was like loosing a family member. RIP "Dusty"
This distributor is locked and drive-able on pump gas. My son has built some radical motors and they stay together for many race seasons. We had Ryan at "Shady dell" build one for us years back . It never made it out of the driveway.
I miss this car , I wrecked it twice. This time hit me the hardest. I am not getting any younger. It was like loosing a family member. RIP "Dusty"
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
340inabbody
Well-Known Member
Ouch sorry to see this. But I guess you guys had your time in the sun with that one! Good memories I am sure! Thats what its all a about!!!
Thanks for your input on the 3:55 rear gear ratio. Just out of curiosity and self learning. What would be the drivability differ you comparing 3:55 and 3500 stall to 4:11 and say 2800?
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Well I tell you how someone else that came here learned
It was a 72 Charger that started life as a 318 auto. We completely changed the car to a 72 340 ralley
340 727 323 gears
Motor was a 70 340, 474 lift mopar purple shaft cam, Iron 202 heads. The trans he bought from someone and the torque converter had a triangle sticker on it that said low stall converter. The car had 275 15 on 8 inch wheels.
It would not turn those tires no matter what you did. Unless you foot braked it bounced the car with the brake and got them spinning. Once they were spinning it would take off pertty good. We put 410's in it and still the same thing.
We took it to Island dragway in NJ. 14.98 and that was the fastest time after 4 runs. Now this was a big car but I had one in the past stock and it was a blast.
The timing at start up and idlewas 15 before total @ 35. in at 2000. That was achieved by closing the slots up in a factory dist. from 1/2 to 3/8 . then leaving the medium spring in remove the heavy and add a light one from DC. I would put a solid top plate from a lean burn dist. and remove the Vacuum advance use the little plate that held the cap from the lean burn. Cheaper than a MSD billet for a street car. My Digital 6 does the same thing but The dist. is locked The box does it for you. I have been doing this since the 80's
At the track it wouldn't even do a burnout in the water. I kept telling him converter. But he kept listening to all the book smart scientists. They said Brakes are sticking, he replace all the hydraulics.
They said Carb was to big, he bought a new Edlebrock. He just didn't want to spend the money on a converter. Electric fan, under drive pullies. Used LD 340 intake. Headers with big exhaust. Then I told him I have an old trans out back with a factory converter in it. I told him I would let him borrow it just to prove a point. We put it in. It was like night and day. We took the car back to Island dragway it went 13 .20 first time down the track. It brake stalled at 3100. you could not hook that car up on the street with those 275's.
He bought a cheap GER 3500 put the 323's back in and drove that car for years to and from Carlisle. and week end fun at the track. Someone bought it out there it was light green. The next thing you should buy is a converter.
My car in those videos has a 5500 tight Notice how it is lifting above idle. That car didn't put on a show it just left real quick at the track even though it was 100 lbs. heavier than that charger. and if you wanted to on a nice straight road you good torch the tires forever.
No one ever listens. We get many here with badly worn piston skirts and the back of the thrust bearing shot from trans pressure trying to push the converter out when they are trying to do a burnout. Call Ray Barton's Shop and tell him you are having this problem . Then tell him you are running a 2200-2400 converter. He will start laughing and hang up on you. Your car should blow street tires away. Your converter would be good in a stock 440 if your pulling a trailer The tires on my duster are soft 29 14.5's Hoosiers They grip so hard they push the tires unless you are in water.
Dammit, the like button ain't big enough!
340inabbody
Well-Known Member
Thanks oldmanmopar for your words of wisdom! Nothing replaces experience and sound advice!
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