383 rebuild - kinda whimpy on the dyno?

Now need to have the rods checked and the crank journals. Everything disassembled and cleaned. You do not want bearing material floating around in your oiling system.

Did you get new rod bolts? New rod bolts are installed before rod resizing. Rod bore doesn’t change with a 0.010 crank, just the crank and the bearing change.

You may have to get the rods resized again since you spun a bearing. Those caps don’t look right, maybe it is an optical illusion with the damaged bearing. I have Eagle rods and the higher rated ARP rod bolts. My bottom end and oiling was designed for 8000rpm. Very important to use the right ARP lube and torque specs.

Do you know how to use plastigage? I check everything when I assemble.

Agreed on remeasuring everything now. Also will be looking at oil galleys, new rods, rod bolts, bearings, total reexamination of crank, heads, springs, etc.

Yes, definitely did the minimal tolerance checking... dial gauged crank and cam end play, plastigauged crank and rod journals during assembly. Made sure everything turned freely. Primed oil pump several times and made sure oil psi was in mid 50s during priming. Everything looked great.

Thanks for the well-wishes and tips everyone!