New in here need some advice SB 360 Cam selection

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I don't care how you did it but those are great compression numbers for stock 360 pistons
plan your work- work your plan
so far so good
Chassis and Brakes
do the gears- it is easier
then top end only is easier than changing pistons- do that only when you need an overhaul - Look at the KB pistons for 360 that add quench when you do
for cam voodoo is good choice - those heads flow no more at .500 than at .450 so if you pull the heads and DIY the bowls after a fresh valve job you will be way ahead
the shorter than 340 cam as far as seat to seat duration will close the intake earlier upping dynamic cylinder pressure- just as changing pistons would but with a lot less work
do not get crazy about port matching- your slow spots are no where near the manifold face

2.02 valves will not really help without your DIY head work and not much in any case- unless your seats are sunk and you need new valves anyway
2.02 valves work better with high compression and much bigger cam- they can actually cut your low end torque- so not at this time unless mechanically required due to wear of the 1.88s
do the thinner gasket at the same time and cut the guides for positive viton seals and room for more lift and better springs (assuming you port the heads r)

work on that tune- what was said about the MSD vs Mopar ignition box is mostly true especially on a lower compression race motor
but on the street the ignition curve can make a big difference- there is a current post showing how to modify the ignition curve
IMHO changing carb is not worth the expense unless you really upgrade the cam-and ports- airflow do it last- keep your money in your pocket
(in other words it works better with the more ported & 2.02 valves or changed heads and bigger cam along with lower gears- a different combination)
 
Wyrmrider said:
I don't care how you did it but those are great compression numbers for stock 360 pistons
plan your work- work your plan
so far so good
Chassis and Brakes
do the gears- it is easier
then top end only is easier than changing pistons- do that only when you need an overhaul - Look at the KB pistons for 360 that add quench when you do
for cam voodoo is good choice - those heads flow no more at .500 than at .450 so if you pull the heads and DIY the bowls after a fresh valve job you will be way ahead
the shorter than 340 cam as far as seat to seat duration will close the intake earlier upping dynamic cylinder pressure- just as changing pistons would but with a lot less work
do not get crazy about port matching- your slow spots are no where near the manifold face

2.02 valves will not really help without your DIY head work and not much in any case- unless your seats are sunk and you need new valves anyway
2.02 valves work better with high compression and much bigger cam- they can actually cut your low end torque- so not at this time unless mechanically required due to wear of the 1.88s
do the thinner gasket at the same time and cut the guides for positive viton seals and room for more lift and better springs (assuming you port the heads r)

work on that tune- what was said about the MSD vs Mopar ignition box is mostly true especially on a lower compression race motor
but on the street the ignition curve can make a big difference- there is a current post showing how to modify the ignition curve
IMHO changing carb is not worth the expense unless you really upgrade the cam-and ports- airflow do it last- keep your money in your pocket
(in other words it works better with the more ported & 2.02 valves or changed heads and bigger cam along with lower gears- a different combination)
Click to expand...

Hi thx alot for your input, really good points, i was in that direction in my mind to, but i feels better to ask one more time and get me in the right direction.

A little correction about the compression reading, at the time a did it, didnt see that it was 5 points between scale from 120psi-150psi.
So more likely about 145psi on all cylinders But i´m very pleased with the compression readings was so equal.

what has been done the last to years on the car are by me:
New Mopar performance Dist with orange box and Accel super coil, Accel super stock wires, noticeable difference
Headers with complete 2.5" exhaust, very noticeable difference
New valve springs, noticeable difference
New KYB shocks in the front and rear, very noticeable difference.

I have a used complete FiTech mean street 600hp with command center that is go on this summer.:rolleyes::)

My thoughts go in the direction of buy a set of new "eddie knock offs" or fixing my old cylinder heads, so that they can withstand higher lifting camshaft and porting them lightly and fix the new valve seats and maybe replace the camshaft at the same time and in the future change the rear axle gear ratio.

Thank again for all the support and thought that is given.

//Robert
 
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way to go keep us posted
learn about quench and consider in your head/ piston choice
those stock pistons will give no quench with either stock open chamber or closed chamber
they are too far down the hole
so plan on what pistons you would use later if you just do the top end first
make sure you have a workable plan
cheers
 
If you want it to be a red light killer up to 90 MPH on straight roads, then the gears seem to be a good idea. Then traction work, and a new torque converter at some point. New aluminum heads are not going to change your compression a whole lot but will help breathing.

My question is this car just for straight line use on pavement? Or do you plan to scare the Volvo's on some rally roads, where a wide RPM torque band is of more use?
 
nm9stheham said:
If you want it to be a red light killer up to 90 MPH on straight roads, then the gears seem to be a good idea. Then traction work, and a new torque converter at some point. New aluminum heads are not going to change your compression a whole lot but will help breathing.

My question is this car just for straight line use on pavement? Or do you plan to scare the Volvo's on some rally roads, where a wide RPM torque band is of more use?
Click to expand...

Hello, i have decided to go with the aluminum heads! :steering:

The Machineshops labor/work are too expensive here in Sweden to get "J" heads in the right spot for a new camshaft.

Scare the volvos at rally roads aint going to happend, i own Volvo s70 2.5t with slighty stiff chassi as a daily driver and my Dart don´t stand a chance without major chassis upgrades and here in Sweden all parts are very expensive.

So my direction right now is to get the new heads and build around them, put FiTech on this summer and just drive , then learn more, drive, learn more and maybe next year change camshaft to VooDoo "702" and then go from there.

//Rob
 
OK, I just asked about straight line speed versus rally type roads as it changes the direction of the build in some ways. It changes the cam and torque converter selections for sure.
 
nm9stheham said:
OK, I just asked about straight line speed versus rally type roads as it changes the direction of the build in some ways. It changes the cam and torque converter selections for sure.
Click to expand...

Hi, sry for my short answer before,
was not supposed to sound arrogant in anyway.

yea understand that, good point there, as for what it is right now, i´m probably aiming for the straight line use. It seems when i floor it in 50 mph goes down to second gear its a raped ape. Its pretty fun :D, so if someone want to race i will try to lure them in to my sweet spot for now.
Have some fine tuning to do as well, have stumble when i floor it from a red light, the sparkplugs is reading a little bit on the lean side, so i think its en lean stumble.

i have ordered the heads, so will give you guys some updates later this summer. New tires are on the way to.

Take care, thanks for all the answers and thoughts.

//Rob
 
I learned the hard way that straight line speed at Bonneville is really just a long tall geared drag race
you still have to have power after a shift- even when push starting to 100 mph
so check both the before shift and after shift for your torque curve
personally I now like to step on the gas and go even without shifting down
 
Hello guys my new heads are in the building now :thumbsup:.

Here are some pics of them.

The Heads are ProComp/SpeedMaster "Bare" has has 64cc chambers with Howard springs, Competition Products 21-4N valves,
flows: intake :255,4 cfm at .500 lift and 250 at .450cfm

Exhaust: 194cfm at .500 lift and at. 450 they flow around 188cfm

They are controlled and installed of Swedish Company called PPM Racing
The valveseats are done by them to. 5 Angle valve job

Take care
The photos is taken with a cellphone

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nice\
estimate flow numbers and/or get from vendor
redoo compression check
post back
have AJ run the numbers before thinking o cam
as others have said
you have a 340 cam in it so lots of duration without much lift already, so you can run that and see how the power band is for your usage
so do headers first- and get one of the good ones
 
Dammit. I'm glad I missed this one.
 
Wyrmrider said:
nice\
estimate flow numbers and/or get from vendor
redoo compression check
post back
have AJ run the numbers before thinking o cam
as others have said
you have a 340 cam in it so lots of duration without much lift already, so you can run that and see how the power band is for your usage
so do headers first- and get one of the good ones
Click to expand...

Hi here is The Flow numbers from The vendor, it is a Superflow 450 bench


Headers is already on.

take care

IMG_20190711_113839.jpg
 
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