999 lock up clutch wire

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glhx

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Mechanical override: Lockup torque converters

This article shows the lock up clutch after 1986 to be activated by the lean burn computer. My transmission is 87 and has this style....

It is controlled by a relay that is ground activated and sends power to the clutch according to its programming......and un activated as it’s called the part throttle unlock solenoid......The older than 86 ran automatic lock up clutches that worked as they should with no computer.

I’m running this type of lock up clutch in my older car with no computer but I would like to use the lock up function.

Aside from the article. Does anyone know if this can be worked to a switch to turn on and off with a relay? Or can I just run power to it and it work automatically......or how to use this without the computer and make it automatically controlled like pre 86

Or is that solenoid just feature where I can turn the lock up on and off at will.
 
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I would think you would need a way to switch it a certain MPH. Or manually....very interested as I have the same exact set up in my Dart. Would love to get the connector for the switch and experiment with it.

Just drove the car on a 30 mile trip and would like to see how much the lock up would help...maybe get me some 3.55s!

sb
 
I saw something the Chevy guys do with the 700r4. They rig some sort of ported vacuum switch to it. I just started looking into it. They do this a lot so they might have it all figured out. I was hitting the Chrysler solutions first.

If you were to wire that up to a switch....and you were in third gear
Running over 40 or 50....

I think you could switch it on and be safe. Then maybe have it connected to the brakes as well to turn it off. That’s manually.

But I think if it were to have a mistake....it might fry the torque converter clutch. I don’t really know yet. It might just die or stall out when coming to a stop. I would like it automatic so that’s what I’ll work towards. They say loses 500 rpm or so in the highway and makes for a little better highway drive. Just don’t use it in the city. They said it was like a 5 speed car with a regular clutch. .......not turning off the switch to the torque converter clutch is like not pressing in the clutch pedal when you slow down. Makes sense.....

I know it’s been done a lot. The turbo dodge guys have done it to the 413. They lock and unlock with a switch.
Pretty good Discussion of that here
https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f22/91139-a904.html

TF 998
This is something the amc guys were talking about with this particular lock up clutch

I keep editing this when I find new info to add to it.

I’ve already decided to activate it with a switch and go from there.
 
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A pretty good run down here

48259040352_68ed53b1bd_z.jpg
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Mechanical override: Lockup torque converters

This article shows the lock up clutch after 1986 to be activated by the lean burn computer. My transmission is 87 and has this style....

It is controlled by a relay that is ground activated and sends power to the clutch according to its programming......and un activated as it’s called the part throttle unlock solenoid......The older than 86 ran automatic lock up clutches that worked as they should with no computer.

I’m running this type of lock up clutch in my older car with no computer but I would like to use the lock up function.

Aside from the article. Does anyone know if this can be worked to a switch to turn on and off with a relay? Or can I just run power to it and it work automatically......or how to use this without the computer and make it automatically controlled like pre 86

Or is that solenoid just feature where I can turn the lock up on and off at will.

I have a 42RH behind my 5.9 Magnum built to look like an LA motor and used adjustable fuel safety cutoff switches plumbed off the governor test port.

An extra section of trans line runs from my governor pressure port up the back of my bell housing to the two adjustable switches on the back of my intake.
These two adjustable switches control relays to activate and deactivate OD and lockup.
Governor pressure relates very closely to road speed, so I adjust the switches for OD and lockup to engage and disengage at any speed I want.
Currently OD comes on at 60mph and lockup at 75.
Most of the hiways around here are 75 and everyone does at least 80, so my lockup is set to 5mph sooner than 80.
Below 75 lockup automatically disengages, and below 60 OD automatically disengages.

I have two switches on my shifter base to set either or both off, or in automatic mode.
In auto mode it shifts 1-2-3-OD at 60 and lockup at 75 all completely automatic.
With the switches off it shifts just like an A999 low geared first.
With my current rear gears I run 80mph at 2,100 prm and get 25mpg on the hiway with a mild built 5.9 Magnum.

An FYI, lockup will drop the RPM's about 300
And you heard correctly that a non disengaging converter clutch will kill the engine just like stopping with out pushing the clutch. (actually it feels exactly like that)

ShifterArt.jpg


OD&Lockup.jpg


A500OD.jpg


MagnumswapLA.jpg
 
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I have a 42RH behind my 5.9 Magnum built to look like an LA motor and used adjustable fuel safety cutoff switches plumbed off the governor test port.

An extra section of trans line runs from my governor pressure port up the back of my bell housing to the two adjustable switches on the back of my intake.
These two adjustable switches control relays to activate and deactivate OD and lockup.
Governor pressure relates very closely to road speed, so I adjust the switches for OD and lockup to engage and disengage at any speed I want.
Currently OD comes on at 60mph and lockup at 75.
Most of the hiways around here are 75 and everyone does at least 80, so my lockup is set to 5mph sooner than 80.
Below 75 lockup automatically disengages, and below 60 OD automatically disengages.

I have two switches on my shifter base to set either or both off, or in automatic mode.
In auto mode it shifts 1-2-3-OD at 60 and lockup at 75 all completely automatic.
With the switches off it shifts just like an A999 low geared first.
With my current rear gears I run 80mph at 2,100 prm and get 25mpg on the hiway with a mild built 5.9 Magnum.

An FYI, lockup will drop the RPM's about 300
And you heard correctly that a non disengaging converter clutch will kill the engine just like stopping with out pushing the clutch. (actually it feels exactly like that)

View attachment 1715362042

View attachment 1715362043

View attachment 1715362044

View attachment 1715362046

Nice job!
 
View attachment 1715364655 -

Are you talking about something like this?

Since you didn't quote me I didn't see your question except by chance.:D
Yes, exactly like that.
I can't read the details but the ones I got are adjustable from 35-75 lbs.
That basically relates to 35-75 mph.

One for OD and one for lockup.
I set them both as high as they would go and then started test driving and lowering the OD switch until OD was coming on where I wanted it, and then did the same with the lockup.
I hardly ever use lockup because of the rear gears I have but I will be changing to 3:55's before too long and I'm sure I will use it more.
Lockup and OD both allow the trans to run cooler because of a lack of friction.
I can even notice it on the engine temp when in OD and lockup.
 
Since you didn't quote me I didn't see your question except by chance.:D
Yes, exactly like that.
I can't read the details but the ones I got are adjustable from 35-75 lbs.
That basically relates to 35-75 mph.

One for OD and one for lockup.
I set them both as high as they would go and then started test driving and lowering the OD switch until OD was coming on where I wanted it, and then did the same with the lockup.
I hardly ever use lockup because of the rear gears I have but I will be changing to 3:55's before too long and I'm sure I will use it more.
Lockup and OD both allow the trans to run cooler because of a lack of friction.
I can even notice it on the engine temp when in OD and lockup.

NOS 15750: Fuel Pressure Switch Pre-set 5 psi to normally open | JEGS

Jegs 11205. This one or one like it. It’s really cool how you did that.
What’s the pressure range on your switch? I’ve seen a lot of switches ranging from 2-7psi up to 30. What would be a good range to work within

I would love to have an overdrive transmission in this. But the bending of flat steel to get it to match the trans tunnel. I wouldn’t know where to start to get it into that perfect shape.
 
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NOS 15750: Fuel Pressure Switch Pre-set 5 psi to normally open | JEGS

Jegs 11205. This one or one like it. It’s really cool how you did that.
What’s the pressure range on your switch? I’ve seen a lot of switches ranging from 2-7psi up to 30. What would be a good range to work within

I would love to have an overdrive transmission in this. But the bending of flat steel to get it to match the trans tunnel. I wouldn’t know where to start to get it into that perfect shape.

My switches are 35-75lb adjustable, and there wasn't a lot of mods to the tunnel.
 
My switches are 35-75lb adjustable, and there wasn't a lot of mods to the tunnel.

We're you able to hammer the runnel frame down

The one I saw he made a 1/8" thick U shaped piece that he bent. Lots of welding and cutting

I haven't picked up a welder yet but I plan to. I would rather have overdrive and a lock up clutch than anything else including a 4 speed. For my driving. A weaker 5 speed would be fine but I would guess that to be pretty involved

What did you do to clear the tunnel for the overdrive housing to set into?
 
We're you able to hammer the runnel frame down

The one I saw he made a 1/8" thick U shaped piece that he bent. Lots of welding and cutting

I haven't picked up a welder yet but I plan to. I would rather have overdrive and a lock up clutch than anything else including a 4 speed. For my driving. A weaker 5 speed would be fine but I would guess that to be pretty involved

What did you do to clear the tunnel for the overdrive housing to set into?

I cut just the center out of the loop in the hump and left the two sides that are welded to the underside.
Then modified the trans crossmember.
My car uses a spool mount and I kept that, so it was pretty easy to make a new piece to hang the mount.
If you can picture cutting the entire center out of the crossmember and welding two flat plates to the end pieces that taper inward and the straight down with a hole through them for the spool mount bolt.
That and a dent in the hump between the bucket seats about 1/2 deep to clear the fitting from the governor port was pretty much all the mods I made to the hump.
Some companies make a biscuit type mount crossmember also, so making one isn't the only option.

No longer being a gold member I can't post pics in messages, but I'll see if I can find a few pics and upload them to my server and send you some links.
 
That’s cool. I’ve not seen it done that way where you used the frame connectors for the support. I like that a lot better for the fabrication side of things. If someone made that k member I’d be interested in it. The Chevy guys and their 700r4 have been spoiled for years. Time for the mopar guys to get theirs on a consistent basis.

I’m getting a welder soon and really like those subframe connectors
 
I decided to just make a quick web page for the pics and explanations here.

A500 Mods

Do you happen to know if the A500 converter will work for the 999
I’ve looked at the specs and 26 spline count. They are all the same but the part number is different...very close.

Have you seen the kit by uscartool
67-75 A-Body 518 Crossmember Kit
I saw one just a few minutes ago. If I had known that. I would have just put in the overdrive transmission. Probably would have cost the same except that my 999 is now completely rebuilt. I still might go that route in the future and have overdrive. Depends on how much i drive this thing
 
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Do you happen to know if the A500 converter will work for the 999
I’ve looked at the specs and 26 spline count. They are all the same but the part number is different...very close.

Have you seen the kit by uscartool
67-75 A-Body 518 Crossmember Kit
I saw one just a few minutes ago. If I had known that. I would have just put in the overdrive transmission. Probably would have cost the same except that my 999 is now completely rebuilt. I still might go that route in the future and have overdrive. Depends on how much i drive this thing

Sorry I don't know for sure enough to point someone in that direction on the converter, but I bet a converter place would be able to confirm that.
With a different part number something has to be different though.

I have seen the US cartool crossmembers, but I didn't get one because I was able to easily modify my OE spool mounted.
Lockup alone makes about 300 rpm difference, so just that will help a little bit.
 
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