Who is using an oil deflector under the intake?

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Krooser

Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
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Anyone using a Moroso or Milodon oil deflector in the sbm lifter valley?

Just wondering if it's needed or just another piece of feel good bling.
 
Good bling just like a Morosso cool can. Useless
I don't know about useless. It keeps hot oil off the bottom of the intake. I'm sure that has some effect, even if it's barely noticeable. But, the more useful thing I read somewhere on here was that it can help keep lifters in their holes if a pushrod fails so you don't lose oil pressure.
 
I don't know about useless. It keeps hot oil off the bottom of the intake. I'm sure that has some effect, even if it's barely noticeable. But, the more useful thing I read somewhere on here was that it can help keep lifters in their holes if a pushrod fails so you don't lose oil pressure.



44 years of racing and I never had a lifter pop out of the lifter bore. Do your homework while the engine is being built prevents issues like this.
 
44 years of racing and I never had a lifter pop out of the lifter bore. Do your homework while the engine is being built prevents issues like this.
I'm just relaying what I've heard. I saw someone post about it and they claimed it saved them. Nothing wrong with an extra safety net. I know I'll be buying one because they're cheap, quite possibly effective, and look neat.
 
I've got on in the current engine.
Tried it because on the previous engine the intake did get hot.
BUT - that was street use when the engine was heat soaked, and that engine's oil temperatures always ran hot, and it had a single plane (Street Dominator).

If you go with one - expect some trimming and fitting. I think it was the Moroso but could have been the Milodon.
 
Mopar installed a foil covered insulation under the intake on their big blocks at the factory.

I jerry rigged a similar deal on my 351C Ford's that I raced for years. It wasn't perfect but I think it kept heat off the carb.

I'd be tempted to build an insulated baffle that fastens to the underside of the intake...just to try it. I'll be using methanol so that may keep the intake cool enough without any help. Hard to get operating temps up as it is....

Just bouncing ideas off your noggins....
 
Every single intake I've ever seen on an engine that didn't have a valley pan had a big rectangle flat section on the bottom side, even stock intakes that had the sheet metal riveted to the bottom. That big flat section IS the oil deflector. You ever cut an intake in half before? I have.....well ok.......sorta. We had a dumbass in a shop I was workin for once leave a small block Edelbrock intake on the floor.......in the way of a car in the next stall. Yup. Guy backed out and broke it right in two. But lemmie tell you.....that thing was probably more then 1/2" thick on the bottom that is exposed to the intake valley. So yeah. Bling.
 
Every single intake I've ever seen on an engine that didn't have a valley pan had a big rectangle flat section on the bottom side, even stock intakes that had the sheet metal riveted to the bottom. That big flat section IS the oil deflector. You ever cut an intake in half before? I have.....well ok.......sorta. We had a dumbass in a shop I was workin for once leave a small block Edelbrock intake on the floor.......in the way of a car in the next stall. Yup. Guy backed out and broke it right in two. But lemmie tell you.....that thing was probably more then 1/2" thick on the bottom that is exposed to the intake valley. So yeah. Bling.
It's still one hunk of aluminum. Basically one big heatsink. I don't really have proof one way or another, but my money's on the baffle making a difference, even if it's a small one.
 
It's still one hunk of aluminum. Basically one big heatsink. I don't really have proof one way or another, but my money's on the baffle making a difference, even if it's a small one.

Then run one.
 
Wait, there is a new thingy that might make my car go faster, TAKE MY MONEY, TAKE MY MON.....wait....I spent all my money....never mind :p

In all seriousness, I have never heard of one of these. Doesn't sound like a game changer, but might make an iddy biddy difference...but feel good bling is probably a better description.
 
In all seriousness, I have never heard of one of these.

sbm.jpg
 
Something to think about..........how effective/ineffective would it be on an air gap style intake????????????????
 
Something to think about..........how effective/ineffective would it be on an air gap style intake????????????????
I'd imagine much less effective but still some effect. Even with the air gap, the entire aluminum intake is one piece, so some heat is going to get up into the intake. And in most setups there isn't that much air flowing through the gap with the firewall right behind it I would imagine.
 
The effectiveness iz zero on an air gap style intake.
 
In town, my AirGap runs pretty much the same temp as everything else under the hood;afterall, it's an oven under there. And the 7-blade fan is plowing air at 207*F straight back, under, thru, and around that AG ...... displacing the air there that could be a heckuva lot hotter, that is coming off the TTIs, and maybe off the Eddies too; afterall hot air rises.
But if I get on the gas long enough...... with that crappy 87E10 that everybody loves to hate....lol, things get a little better. I mean afterall, it is advertised to be 10% alcohol....
But hey, it's only crappy if yur stuck with iron heads.

Yaknow, every body pays so much attention to the horsepower it takes to spin a 7-blade fan to shift-rpm, but they completely overlook what to do with all that relatively cool moving air you paid gasmoney to be pumping all thru your engine compartment, pushing the hotter air out.
Any streeter with over 275hp already has more power than the stock chassis can handle. So what if your fan costs you a couple of ponies; most street guys are probably loosing more power in the tune, than what a 7-blader on a T-clutch might possibly squander. Well maybe not most, I can't say for sure,lol. I do know my combo is fat, and is staying fat, and it still went 93 in the Eighth, shifting at 7000..... on a 230* cam,lol.
Maybe my fan supercharged it,lol
 
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In town, my AirGap runs pretty much the same temp as everything else under the hood;afterall, it's an oven under there. And the 7-blade fan is plowing air at 207*F straight back, under, thru, and around that AG ...... displacing the air there that could be a heckuva lot hotter, that is coming off the TTIs, and maybe off the Eddies too; afterall hot air rises.
But if I get on the gas long enough...... with that crappy 87E10 that everybody loves to hate....lol, things get a little better. I mean afterall, it is advertised to be 10% alcohol....
But hey, it's only crappy if yur stuck with iron heads.

Yaknow, every body pays so much attention to the horsepower it takes to spin a 7-blade fan to shift-rpm, but they completely overlook what to do with all that relatively cool moving air you paid gasmoney to be pumping all thru your engine compartment, pushing the hotter air out.
Any streeter with over 275hp already has more power than the stock chassis can handle. So what if your fan costs you a couple of ponies; most street guys are probably loosing more power in the tune, than what a 7-blader on a T-clutch might possibly squander. Well maybe not most, I can't say for sure,lol. I do know my combo is fat, and is staying fat, and it still went 93 in the Eighth, shifting at 7000..... on a 230* cam,lol.
Maybe my fan supercharged it,lol

And yet you cannot preach that hard enough to electric fan guys to make them believe.
 
And yet you cannot preach that hard enough to electric fan guys to make them believe.
There’s no way the difference in intake manifold temp from a crank driven fan makes up for the power that the fan steals. Electric fans eat up a ton of HP. If the slight change manifold temp cold make up for that then the baffle would make a huge difference. Heat transfer through the oil is a lot faster than heat transfer through air...
 
There’s no way the difference in intake manifold temp from a crank driven fan makes up for the power that the fan steals. Electric fans eat up a ton of HP. If the slight change manifold temp cold make up for that then the baffle would make a huge difference. Heat transfer through the oil is a lot faster than heat transfer through air...

I don't even think that was an argument. What was said was, that normally, hot rod engines make WAY more than enough power to warrant a crank driven fan. And if that's not true with your build, then you need to stop wussy builds.
 
I don't even think that was an argument. What was said was, that normally, hot rod engines make WAY more than enough power to warrant a crank driven fan. And if that's not true with your build, then you need to stop wussy builds.
Why would you want to give up all that power though? You can spend $100-200 and set up an electric fan, and you get all that power back. A lot of bang for your buck
 
Why would you want to give up all that power though? You can spend $100-200 and set up an electric fan, and you get all that power back. A lot of bang for your buck

Show ma a fan that moves the proper amount if air for 200 bucks. I'm waiting.
 
Show me an electric fan that runs for free and lasts nearly forever.
This argument is so stale; and is like pre-tribbers talking to post-tribbers talking to mid-tribbers; Read the Book,there's no escape the trib rapture, and there ain't no free electricity.
 
Here's something everybody knows; you only need a fan below about 30 mph, after that ram air takes over; right?
So,install a Thermostatic-Clutch on your fan, and it pretty much freewheels in the ram-air flow after that.
But wait; with 3.55s.... 30 mph is about;
1323 rpm in direct,
1918rpm in 1.45 second, and
3240rpm in 2.45 first gear.......
Gee I wonder how much power my 7-blader actually steals; ask me if I care.
Honestly it could be triple what they say it is, and that sweet 367 under my hood could still spin the 295s to near or over the speed-limit anywhere in Manitoba. In the meantime; once warm,my engine runs at exactly one temperature, ALL the time, no fluctuating ;so I can tune for that.
The only time I might care is if I would be tracking the car on a regular basis.
 
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