Advice on Swap to Dot 5

Advice on Swap to Dot 5 - New MC

Mattax said
True!
The problem with the OP's setup is that's it's no longer a matched system.

I'm pretty sure I found replacement parts for mine.
Best bleeding IMO is the old fashioned way. The disks should be gravity bled if your patient (and lucky).
For the rear lock up, go over the drum system to make sure everything is up to snuff. Nothing should be grabby. Make sure the front linings have the same or higher friction ratings (marked on the edges or back as a two letter code). Smaller rear wheel cylinders may be in order to reduce the force. Then when you go to front disks, you can reavaluate that decision if need be.

Look at the newest Brake tips here:
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
Drum hardware was changed '68 to '69 so those details from anybooklet '68 and older prob won't apply to what's on your 8 1/4
mymopar may have the same and some of the newer MTSC booklets the Imperial Club doesn't have.

I appreciate the information Mattax. I also appreciate everyone's input. Seems like every time I go to work on a different system with my Mopar, a whole universe appears on how to deal with it. The ignition system for example. Tons of systems, tons of ways to do different things. Brakes by far are the most important system in the automotive assembly of systems. Don't matter how fast your car is if you can't stop it. I agree, the system has been altered. I'm not sure how to remedy the system other than to upgrade to Discs soon. I just put 450 horses under the hood and won't be stepping on it anywhere near a place I will need to stop. But still, I have to be careful. I will do the wet road test to see if they are locking appropriately. I suppose the front should lock at the same point that the rear do??? Just to be sure, I'm not clear on that.

Other than that, I got a good lesson in Silicone Brake Fluid. My buddy swears by it. Do you or does anyone know if it prevents the WC's from deteriorating as rapidly as they do with normal fluid?? It seems to me if the normal fluid absorbs moisture, it will rust the lines, that will generate debris which cuts the cups and makes them bleed. Is that right? Since the silicone doesn't absorb at least "as much" water, it seems like it would cause the cups in the WC's and the O-Rings in the MC to last a lot longer.

Whenever I do a conversion to Discs, I will be sure to research hard on finding the right Proportioning valve and make sure the system locks up correctly. But for now, I will use the same Dot 3 that is in it to completely flush the system, since it has been a long time since it has been. I will most likely get new lines for the rear and front, and put new rear WC's, and a new MC all at the same time I install the Discs. I think that is what I read somewhere in these posts was that it is a good time to switch to Dot 5 when you are doing a resto.

Thanks again!!