318 budget build

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RRR he's working on a late rocker shaft 360 with 308 heads and roller cam now regound by Oregon cams to RT specs
he has 3 Darts one of which is a Slant Six
It is obvious that core selection of the donor core is important the early Dakota 318 has the largest stock HR but you have to look at fuel pump etc
do your roller lifters have oil holes in the cups?
in any case oil holes in the pushrods do not hurt
the wear is in a circle around the lower half of the ball not at the bottom which should not touch
parts do not last if they touch on a small point or area
ask anyone who has put early pushrods into late larger ball lifters (vice versa does not match either) IDK if the early parts are still readily available) later works better if you are doing an early motor but get matching partsproblem happens when someone gets a cam and lifter kit with the newer style lifters and trys to use old pushrods- been awhile but I do not think they are even the same length- but Oh well
 
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Wyrmrider said:
RRR he's working on a late rocker shaft 360 with 308 heads and roller cam now regound by Oregon cams to RT specs
he has 3 Darts one of which is a Slant Six
It is obvious that core selection of the donor core is important the early Dakota 318 has the largest stock HR but you have to look at fuel pump etc
do your roller lifters have oil holes in the cups?
in any case oil holes in the pushrods do not hurt
the wear is in a circle around the lower half of the ball not at the bottom which should not touch
parts do not last if they touch on a small point or area
ask anyone who has put early pushrods into late larger ball lifters (vice versa does not match either) IDK if the early parts are still readily available) later works better if you are doing an early motor but get matching partsproblem happens when someone gets a cam and lifter kit with the newer style lifters and trys to use old pushrods- been awhile but I do not think they are even the same length- but Oh well
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Jim, it's a 318 roller 1989 block with 302 heads, roller lifters hydraulic rocker arms, I have two barracudas and one dart.
 
Ok, I had slant six imbedded in the brain for some reason.
 
Slantsix64 said:
I think my problem is in the hydraulic roller lifter, I think there's play in the lifter when the push rod it not pressing it down with the rocker arm torque. So this is what I'm going to try, with the rocker arm assembled torqued to spec, true tdc found, I'm going to go off the tip of the valve retainer @ .050 lift record that number down, then .050 lift going the other direction record that number, add em divide by two see what I get.
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OK, been away messing with a 'new' (to me) '75 Opel. Yes, you're finding that that the play in the lifter plunger is getting in the way of accurate .050" lobe lift measurements. It will be the same issue at the retainer.... so going there does not fix this. And I would not count on the 'squishiness' being equal on both sides of the center line of the lobe. If you can take the plunger out of one of the lifters, then go to the hardware store or root round in your junk pil and get a long enough piece of rod or tube and figure out a way to rigidly put it into the hole of the lifter body so it will reach far enough for your dial indicator, then that is what I would do. (But I have never had one of those lifter to know how easy or hard it is to take out the lifter's plunger.) If this measurement is going to be at all reliable, it needs to be accurate; it takes some care to get accurate readings on the lobe centerline.

'AHA' on the pushrod length!
 
nm9stheham said:
OK, been away messing with a 'new' (to me) '75 Opel. Yes, you're finding that that the play in the lifter plunger is getting in the way of accurate .050" lobe lift measurements. It will be the same issue at the retainer.... so going there does not fix this. And I would not count on the 'squishiness' being equal on both sides of the center line of the lobe. If you can take the plunger out of one of the lifters, then go to the hardware store or root round in your junk pil and get a long enough piece of rod or tube and figure out a way to rigidly put it into the hole of the lifter body so it will reach far enough for your dial indicator, then that is what I would do. (But I have never had one of those lifter to know how easy or hard it is to take out the lifter's plunger.) If this measurement is going to be at all reliable, it needs to be accurate; it takes some care to get accurate readings on the lobe centerline.

'AHA' on the pushrod length!
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Update! The magnum Pushrods are the correct length! the difference was .2 thousands of an inch! got the cam degreed at zero advance on the key way the lobe center line was at 107 i think this is where i want to be with a CR of 9:18:1 with closed chamber 302 heads!
 
Slantsix64 said:
Update! The magnum Pushrods are the correct length! the difference was .2 thousands of an inch! got the cam degreed at zero advance on the key way the lobe center line was at 107 i think this is where i want to be with a CR of 9:18:1 with closed chamber 302 heads!
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So did you put a degree wheel on it, or just line up the dots?
 
Hi slant
I'm in WA for two weeks
answer YR's question
YR he has a degree wheel and dial indicator
will be interesting to see what he used for a lifter
agree it was most likely the hyd lifter collapsing
Slant did you get that degree kit with the round wheel sized lifter substitute?
Sorry about calling your cudas names
 
Wyrmrider said:
Hi slant
I'm in WA for two weeks
answer YR's question
YR he has a degree wheel and dial indicator
will be interesting to see what he used for a lifter
agree it was most likely the hyd lifter collapsing
Slant did you get that degree kit with the round wheel sized lifter substitute?
Sorry about calling your cudas names
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What are you doing up here? It's wild fire season. Big thunder show last night and a fire is just over the hill.
 
I have a sister on the water in Bellingham, aunt and uncle in Vancouver top floor of a high rise retirement condo and I have a place on James street
 
Wyrmrider said:
I have a sister on the water in Bellingham, aunt and uncle in Vancouver top floor of a high rise retirement condo and I have a place on James street
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Well, at least you not over here in central Washington where the fire season is underway, full blast.

I was in Vancouver last weekend.
 
Snapped some pictures of the motor, didn't know the torque specs for that spider boss plate for the lifter so I just torqued it to 20ft pounds.

20190724_155241.jpg


20190724_155246.jpg


20190724_155258.jpg
 
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cleaned up real nice Slant
now tell all the folks following how you solved all of your challanges
 
Wyrmrider said:
cleaned up real nice Slant
now tell all the folks following how you solved all of your challanges
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Well degreeing the camshaft, I couldn't get true tdc with that piston stop tool, so I took the head off used a piston stop that bolts on the block, that was solved, another problem was one of the heads had a bracken ez out in it so I pulled that one as well, found out the motor had some thick aftermarket head gaskets measuring at .050 range, put the thinner fel pro at .039 to get 9:18:1. Now the last issue removing the dodge d100 manual trans pilot bearing, which after watching this video I can probably do with a bolt and bread pounding in the crank, hopefully lol.
 
mygasser said:
yeah that works with grease which is what i always use, but then i can't see good food wasted :lol:
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Feed it to the birds.... Ha ha ha

Jadaharabi said:
Save the food we used a bar of soap.
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Ahhhhhhh, there ya go, remove the bearing and get it squeaky clean at the same time. Remove the soap and wash your hands, it’s a 3 for .....
 
new issue this motor is a premagnum block 1990 but now my passenger motor mount wont bolt on it missing an ear, i marked both mounts before i pulled them any ideas?
 
So I ended up buy some thinner mopar .024 gaskets on eBay both for 38.00 shipped .bumping my compression from 9:18:1 to 9:53:1

Oil was 25 bucks with the filter

I bought two intake manifold gaskets to make one set that almost completely blocks the heat rise off that was 22.00

22 bucks for a degree wheel thanks to wormryder for letting me borrow with dial indicator!

So I'm at a dead $507.00 a little more than I wanted to spend....

but now I have a nice 318 lb4d intake 600 eddy AFB mild 302 heads ported 260/260 duration roller camshaft 9:5:1 compression breathing out driver side 340 manny and a grand Cherokee passenger exhaust manifold , a904 torqeflight with a b and m shift kit set on coffee spiller mode with 3.55 in the rear screw it let's see how she runs!
 
For the break in, I'm priming the oil, then starting the car and letting it idle for five mins then do a burn out.
 
If it noses over real hard at the top of the cam range...you'll know then the 'port job' is hurting you.
 
Here's a picture of what the motor looks like painted it with rustoleom regal red two cans came out to like less than 10 bucks

20190802_084901.jpg
 
Was running the motor seen flame flashes coming out the exhaust when cold it's open headers right now goes away when warm probably I rich mixture I'm guessing?
 
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