Who is using an oil deflector under the intake?

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Anyone using a Moroso or Milodon oil deflector in the sbm lifter valley?

Just wondering if it's needed or just another piece of feel good bling.
Good bling just like a Morosso cool can. Useless

It useless but provisional in it use and worth. (Both items.)
As mentioned, on an air gap style intake, I see no gain. On a stock intake, there could be something there. I don’t think much of it. For Street duty there may a plus in there.
When does a slightly cooler intake help?

Cool can useless?
Ummmm, no. Like above, when does cooler fuel help?
A bunch more than an hot oil shield I bet.
 
Mopar did address keeping the intake cool on their big blocks... every stock one I saw 50 years ago had the aluminum foil insulator under the intake.

God knows I did enough warranty oil leak jobs replacing the tin intake gaskets. I think the factory paid 1.2 hours for the whole job...another reason I got out of dealership work.
 
Being a 75% race 25% street guy, my car did much better with an electric fan. I use a 2007 Chevy HHR fan...for only 50 bucks it pulls a crap ton of air (over 3000 CFM if I recall correctly). The difference at the strip was close to a tenth or more if I recall (its been a few years since I did the testing). To me, that was totally worth it, plus I can cool the car easier in the late rounds when they begin to round robin.

That doodad in the lifter valley....with a Victor intake (with air flow under the plenum), I doubt you would be able to detect a difference at all.
 
Something to think about..........how effective/ineffective would it be on an air gap style intake????????????????

I can't imagine it would make much of a difference as the runners are already separate, so to speak.
 
For the guys that tube the block and rely on oil splash for Cam and lifter lubrication, I would think the deflector would help in that situation? IDK
 
I made a phenolic plate that goes from the front china wall to the rear. It takes the place of where the cork gaskets would sit. RTV it in place and as a side benefit no more oil leaks at the manifold ends.

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Not sure it does anything. It’s a wet intake so the coolant heats it to 195-200
 
The oil deflector is really only stopping the oil that is spinning off the cam. The lifters will still splash oil with there movement as the oil pouring down from the heads get there.

A cool intake on the outside only gets so cool. It’s on the inside is where you want it to be cool. Stopping any radiant heat is a help but only minor. A cool dense air and fuel charge is what your after. This is where the cool can helps as well as the other tricks also come into play. Like sealing the carb to the hood and a fresh air scoop work.
 
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Show ma a fan that moves the proper amount if air for 200 bucks. I'm waiting.
There's been a lot written about junkyard fans that do the job more than adequately. Ford fans from the early 90's specifically. Off the top of my head, I believe they were the fan from the 3.8 V6 as used in early 90's Taurus models, the dual fan from a little later Cougars (don't remember the exact year or this one, but I know there was a dual fan that people use that's supposed to be good), and then the big one is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. You can get these all very cheap at a junkyard or brand new ones of most of them from Rockauto even for under $100. Throw in a higher amp alt for the other $100 and there you go. Less than $200 - a lot less if you find one at a junkyard.
 
I use the MP viscous clutch and fan set up on a number of cars. Never a problem, always does the job, never an issue, used with the stock shroud and radiator.

Most powerful mill to date was a 475hp - 360 cube engine.
 
There's been a lot written about junkyard fans that do the job more than adequately. Ford fans from the early 90's specifically. Off the top of my head, I believe they were the fan from the 3.8 V6 as used in early 90's Taurus models, the dual fan from a little later Cougars (don't remember the exact year or this one, but I know there was a dual fan that people use that's supposed to be good), and then the big one is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. You can get these all very cheap at a junkyard or brand new ones of most of them from Rockauto even for under $100. Throw in a higher amp alt for the other $100 and there you go. Less than $200 - a lot less if you find one at a junkyard.

Absolutely I agree! I am very familiar with the Taurus fans. They WORK. But that's not exactly what I meant. Someone building a high end car for example, they're not going to use a junkyard Taurus fan. Those are the examples of NEW AFTERMARKET fans I was asking about. It's well known that an electric fan has to move "around" 4K CFM to be effective. Those are NOT cheap. But for most everyday builds, I agree with your examples 100%. They work well and are cheap.
 
I use the MP viscous clutch and fan set up on a number of cars. Never a problem, always does the job, never an issue, used with the stock shroud and radiator.

Most powerful mill to date was a 475hp - 360 cube engine.

And you'll get zero argument here. If you have the room they just WORK.
 
Why would you want to give up all that power though? You can spend $100-200 and set up an electric fan, and you get all that power back. A lot of bang for your buck


Have you ever tested HP loss from a mechanical fan? It's not worth bothering with. An electric fan is a pian in the ***.
 
Absolutely I agree! I am very familiar with the Taurus fans. They WORK. But that's not exactly what I meant. Someone building a high end car for example, they're not going to use a junkyard Taurus fan. Those are the examples of NEW AFTERMARKET fans I was asking about. It's well known that an electric fan has to move "around" 4K CFM to be effective. Those are NOT cheap. But for most everyday builds, I agree with your examples 100%. They work well and are cheap.

I don't think this is in reference to a fancy, "high-end" care, though. If you're looking for original and pretty, you're going to pay for it no matter what. You can pay in horsepower or money. If you want more power from the same engine, use an electric fan. If you're going for the highest power build possible, you've got no problem spending some extra Benjamins for that horsepower and buying a nice new fan. If you are going for a more economical build, you can do what I suggested with the ford fans. There's options no matter what.

Have you ever tested HP loss from a mechanical fan? It's not worth bothering with. An electric fan is a pian in the ***.

There's a very good episode of Engine Masters on Motortrend about this. Really blew me away the numbers they were losing with the crank fans.
It's not that hard to install an electric fan once you know what you need, either.
 
I don't think this is in reference to a fancy, "high-end" care, though. If you're looking for original and pretty, you're going to pay for it no matter what. You can pay in horsepower or money. If you want more power from the same engine, use an electric fan. If you're going for the highest power build possible, you've got no problem spending some extra Benjamins for that horsepower and buying a nice new fan. If you are going for a more economical build, you can do what I suggested with the ford fans. There's options no matter what.



There's a very good episode of Engine Masters on Motortrend about this. Really blew me away the numbers they were losing with the crank fans.
It's not that hard to install an electric fan once you know what you need, either.

I wonder how many electric fan companies sponsored that show? I never trust data unless I know it's an unbiased source, OR I do it myself. Any of this could be argued to death. We could even argue the extra load the fans put on the alternator making it more difficult to turn and pulling more horse power that way. You do know that, right? As electrical load increases, the alternator sees more and more resistance to rotate. It's splitting hairs really. Just run whichever fan you want.
 
I don't think this is in reference to a fancy, "high-end" care, though. If you're looking for original and pretty, you're going to pay for it no matter what. You can pay in horsepower or money. If you want more power from the same engine, use an electric fan. If you're going for the highest power build possible, you've got no problem spending some extra Benjamins for that horsepower and buying a nice new fan. If you are going for a more economical build, you can do what I suggested with the ford fans. There's options no matter what.



There's a very good episode of Engine Masters on Motortrend about this. Really blew me away the numbers they were losing with the crank fans.
It's not that hard to install an electric fan once you know what you need, either.


Read what Rusty wrote. Tested it MYSELF and found at best, 7-8 HP. At best. And when you can't control the engine temp you lose way more power than that.
 
I use the MP viscous clutch and fan set up on a number of cars. Never a problem, always does the job, never an issue, used with the stock shroud and radiator.

Most powerful mill to date was a 475hp - 360 cube engine.

I run this set up on my Dart. It along with a FlowKooler water pump have been on my 340, 408 and now my 434. The 340 was in the 450-475 hp range, the 408 was approaching 600 and the 434 dynoed 703, although I'd say it's in the 650 range. This set up has kept all three engines well under 200° even when making back to back to back runs at street car shoot outs. In the summer heat they all have ran around 175° while cruising.

I tried electric fans when I built the 340 over 15 years ago, it didn't work out well. I bought two new radiators and two electric fans along with the above mentioned pump and it still ran hot. I was ready to pull the engine and tear it down as I thought there was a problem, then someone suggested a MP viscous fan. A buddy of mine had a new one that he made me a deal on. I had a shroud for a factory 26" radiator that I cut into four pieces to fit my aluminum radiator. No overheating since then.

Just out of curiosity has anyone ever checked how much power it takes to run the alternator when one of them monster fans kicks on? I know with the last one I bought it would cause the ammeter to peg on fully charging when it kicked on.

To the OP, I ran the valley tray in my 340 when it was first built. Can't say if it helped or not but the intake bottom had no oil stains on it after five years, for whatever that's worth.
 
I wonder how many electric fan companies sponsored that show? I never trust data unless I know it's an unbiased source, OR I do it myself. Any of this could be argued to death. We could even argue the extra load the fans put on the alternator making it more difficult to turn and pulling more horse power that way. You do know that, right? As electrical load increases, the alternator sees more and more resistance to rotate. It's splitting hairs really. Just run whichever fan you want.
I agree that it's good to be wary about who you believe and where their interests lay, but I believe their numbers based off what I've seen from their programming and read from them in articles. They seem to know what their doing, and I have chosen to trust them. Whether or not other people do is up to them. I think a lot of this kind of stuff is splitting hairs, but that's the point. Trying to find how much of an improvement something makes and at what cost. And the extra resistance to turn the alternator will be nowhere near the resistance of a fan.
 
Myself and my brother have swapped to/ run electric fans and waterpumps on everything we have
I have swapped several times from stock fan/ waterpump to electric stuff( as has he) and each time have seen right around a tenth difference at the track on a time slip. This on 10, 11, 12 second cars. My 9 sec Duster i had already swapped over when it ran 10’s .
I drive all my stuff on the street a lot and never had any issues with overheating. Including a couple of 70 mile round trips in a 10 sec eddie stroker to the track and back driving it.
My current car never gets over 185 ish even in summer heat and traffic.
Wouldnt consider any other way. Too many benefits at the track between rounds, and zero downside on the street.
Need a good fan setup, i run Derale stuff. Always had good luck and they are US made.

Lots of “ fake “ CFM ratings on some of this stuff. I have found if a fan doesnt pull at least 20+ amps, the motor isnt a player in cooling anything. Relay everything, have good wiring/ juice, = no problems
 
Myself and my brother have swapped to/ run electric fans and waterpumps on everything we have
I have swapped several times from stock fan/ waterpump to electric stuff( as has he) and each time have seen right around a tenth difference at the track on a time slip. This on 10, 11, 12 second cars. My 9 sec Duster i had already swapped over when it ran 10’s .
I drive all my stuff on the street a lot and never had any issues with overheating. Including a couple of 70 mile round trips in a 10 sec eddie stroker to the track and back driving it.
My current car never gets over 185 ish even in summer heat and traffic.
Wouldnt consider any other way. Too many benefits at the track between rounds, and zero downside on the street.
Need a good fan setup, i run Derale stuff. Always had good luck and they are US made.

Lots of “ fake “ CFM ratings on some of this stuff. I have found if a fan doesnt pull at least 20+ amps, the motor isnt a player in cooling anything. Relay everything, have good wiring/ juice, = no problems

Don
Who's pump are you running? GPM?
 
Alternator cost me about 8 hp. Just the ignition was working the alternator. On a street ride, I’m sure a few more horse power would be lost since things like lights, stereo on 11, fan for the cabin comes to play.

But that’s not a big deal for a street car. A race car doesn’t have that. Just ignition. If you add an electric water, fuel pump, I’d bet there’s less than 5 hp loss combined.

I’ll take the tried and true long lasting rock solid performance of the MP viscous fan every time.
Electric fans have always let me down.
 
There's been a lot written about junkyard fans that do the job more than adequately. Ford fans from the early 90's specifically. Off the top of my head, I believe they were the fan from the 3.8 V6 as used in early 90's Taurus models, the dual fan from a little later Cougars (don't remember the exact year or this one, but I know there was a dual fan that people use that's supposed to be good), and then the big one is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. You can get these all very cheap at a junkyard or brand new ones of most of them from Rockauto even for under $100. Throw in a higher amp alt for the other $100 and there you go. Less than $200 - a lot less if you find one at a junkyard.
I have one or two nos Taurus fans in stock from my Ford dealership days in the 90's. Came from crash jobs that included a new fan but we're never installed...

On the oval tracks many guys have tried electric fans and pumps... None seem up to the task.
 
Alternator cost me about 8 hp. Just the ignition was working the alternator. On a street ride, I’m sure a few more horse power would be lost since things like lights, stereo on 11, fan for the cabin comes to play.

But that’s not a big deal for a street car. A race car doesn’t have that. Just ignition. If you add an electric water, fuel pump, I’d bet there’s less than 5 hp loss combined.

I’ll take the tried and true long lasting rock solid performance of the MP viscous fan every time.
Electric fans have always let me down.

Always seen WAY more than 5 HP going electric water pump and fan. Seen between 9 and 13 on the time slip difference making the swap on at least 3 occasions i remember.
The 13 hundreds difference was just 4 years ago on my little 11 sec 318 enginemasters motor.
These were all cars i raced regularly enough to know what they ran.
Your results are different than what i have seen actually doing back to back tests from one outing to the next after the changes
 
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