Advice on Swap to Dot 5 - New MC

IMO a good way of brake testing is to do a series of stop tests at say 50mph. Get the car up to speed and then roll into the brakes, progressively harder with each application.
What you will notice when the rear brakes are not working at all, is a goodly amount of front-end dive as the weight transfers from the rear to the front, even with 1.03T-bars. As you increase the rear pressure,and the rear does more and more braking, the dive lessens. Too much rear pressure and it begins to skid. Just right is when the whole car just hunkers down,still with a modest amount of dive, just before rear-end skid. Leave it like that for a few weeks, then adjust as may be necessary to prevent swapping ends.
Then enjoy one of the best darn braking street-Mopars ever built.
I remember in 73/74, a highschool buddy of mine took me for a ride in his newly purchased Corvette (year unknown but looked modern for that year). It was a heck uva ride for sure, BB and all; but the thing I remember most about that car was it's braking. Up to that point, I had never experienced brakes like that.
My 70 Swinger 340,4-speed had pretty good brakes, but it was easy to get into trouble with that car, with its skinny E70-14 Polyglass belted tires, so you had to learn to actually drive that little monster. Come in too hot, and I had to ride it out hoping for the best while steering around obstacles as best as possible. Sometimes winning and sometimes not.
With the Corvette, it had the brakes for back-up when you screwed up.
When I built my car, I remembered that Corvette. And on the budget I had,I still wanted that kind of brake back-up; after all I was 25years older now.The KH 4-piston set-up with 10x2s out back, and big N littles hit the mark pretty close, for this streeter.
That Corvette cornered pretty good too, compared to my Swinger anyway.
I was glad when those factory tires wore out, and I put fat radials on bigger wheels, whoa, different world.

Thanks for the tip on the test braking. From 50, there are plenty of places to go 50 around the hill country where there are no close trees, people, pets, poles or cars! So 50 sounds about right. I can let off the brake if it goes squirrely or something and know I need to fix something at what is still a safe speed. Then gradually braking harder and harder each pass would be a safe way to test the reliability and function of them without too much risk.

Overall a great way to test how they do. My reasoning is with the larger in diameter and width of the rear tires is what I think someone said in a reply here; it would take more psi of brake fluid to do the same job as the front because of the tire diameter and width. The proportioning valve was built for a 72 Dart with factory 4 Drum brakes. But yeah, the difference is 1/2" wider shoes in the back, which maybe offset by the larger and wider rear tires... So it "Should" be close I would think. If it isn't I will have to upgrade to the discs sooner than later. I know a shop that is professional about their work. Only took me 54 years to find them, lol. But they do quality work, Mopar is their specialty, hell, the guy has a 69 Charger for God's sake! He is good at this stuff, tons of factory and after market manuals, and he does his research. Cheap???? No way, but when you are asking someone to do a perfect job on a 49 yr old car, modified, mixing and matching parts, cheap just don't cut it!

Oh, and yeah, I will try the wet road slam on the brakes test from 30mph, after a few roll into the brakes tests also at 30 which isn't fool proof, but should tell me if one of them is wayyyyy off. Right?