Sorry, I forgot you. The more the merrier. I'll supply the beer and steaks while you guys argue and weld up my car.I thought there was 3 of us? I'M game...
Sorry, I forgot you. The more the merrier. I'll supply the beer and steaks while you guys argue and weld up my car.I thought there was 3 of us? I'M game...
Does this mean your not onboard with welding up my car? Heartbroken again.Saying MIG is no good for “structural welding” when you’re talking about building bridges, in a thread about replacing rusty panels on a Barracuda isn’t relevant.
And yes, TIG is great and the preferred method for cage building and sheet metal repair. But most guys rebuilding their own car in their own garage don’t have $5k to drop on a TIG.
MIG is great for anything you need to do for repairing a unibody. Would TIG be better if you’ve got the machine and the skill? Absolutely. But that wasn’t the point, just like building bridges and skyscrapers isn’t the point.
Bud, I’m not mad. If you think flux core wire is the greatest thing ever, good for you. You’re the only guy I’ve ever met that likes it for automotive work. And I’ve been in and around automotive repair for almost 30 years.
And I’ve used it. And there isn’t enough money in the world to convince me to do the repairs that RSie needs to do with flux core. So I sure wouldn’t recommend it to him. And yeah, I’m gonna disagree, because setting yourself up for that much flux core work is bad planning.
Sorry man. You’ve got the right plan already, ignore the noise. A Hobart 140 with gas will be a great set up for you.
Does this mean your not onboard with welding up my car? Heartbroken again.
Saying MIG is no good for “structural welding” when you’re talking about building bridges, in a thread about replacing rusty panels on a Barracuda isn’t relevant.
And yes, TIG is great and the preferred method for cage building and sheet metal repair. But most guys rebuilding their own car in their own garage don’t have $5k to drop on a TIG.
MIG is great for anything you need to do for repairing a unibody. Would TIG be better if you’ve got the machine and the skill? Absolutely. But that wasn’t the point, just like building bridges and skyscrapers isn’t the point.
It's about integrity. A stick will have better structural integrity... As will flux core. Mig is preferred on thinner metal, as it will normally penetrate enough to hold... But usually because it just is more appealing to the eye. Mig is not the strongest weld, because it will work, doesn't make it the best, or only way. I will say that we can just agree to disagree, but to say it's the only way is flat out wrong!
Agreed. I got a Lincoln weldpak 100. I added a mig conversion kit, picked up a new bottle from praxair online. Works great.I only have a 110 Lincoln welder. To hard to put a 220 plug in my house. And i dont want to have to pull out my Dryer every time i like weld.
Plus i dont do weld frames or roll cages . only body and floor panels. So my 110 works just fine !
"it will penetrate deeper,... may not be as pretty."Your Hobart 140 is a good welder. Get a gas bottle and it will treat you right, but don't overlook flux, as it will penetrate deeper, and make a stronger weld, may not be as pretty.
"it will penetrate deeper,... may not be as pretty."
Had a girl tell me that once.
Sorry, I had to.
Time for me to put down the beer and get off hit interwebs thingy.
It's about integrity. A stick will have better structural integrity... As will flux core. Mig is preferred on thinner metal, as it will normally penetrate enough to hold... But usually because it just is more appealing to the eye. Mig is not the strongest weld, because it will work, doesn't make it the best, or only way. I will say that we can just agree to disagree, but to say it's the only way is flat out wrong!
Correct.Looks like 69 notch w 68 grille and hood.
Already have a complete front clip (torsion support, rails, inner fenders, rad support) and have the upper rad support out of the Cuda.Set the stands more forward where the bumper supports mount to them. First floor pan to swap out would be the transition pan. This is where the rear shock crossmember mounts, rear seat and dangle bracing attaches. You change this pan out first since the trunk floor and main floor pan overlap this pan. If your trunk floor is fucked, trim it back at the seam where it meets the transition pan so you can set the new transition pan in place.
Then peel that main floor pan out. But before you do that, look at my 67 build thread for how I changed out the torsion bar crossmember. I first temp welded some 2" box steel across the front framerails from below the rails, and tack welded it to the bottom of the rockers this keeps the rails square. Then I peeled out the main floor pan.
Fix any rust issues in the rocker panels, weld in a new or used and rust free torsion bar crossmember, then install your new main floor pan. Butt the crossmember to the front framerails if your changing them out, and just temp screw it to the front framerails from the underside with self tapping screws this locates it where it needs to be Ditto with floorplan to front rails. You just zip the self tapping screws back out when you go and change the rails out.
I have seen guys change the whole front stub on these cars with a rust free one. At this point where I mentioned you would be, with new transition pan, torsion bar crossmember, and main floor installed installing an entire front stub would be the easiest way to fix the front clip. A front stub is essentially both frame rails. Inner fender wells upper and lower radiator supports in one unit removed from another car. It slides in place framerails you temp self tap screw to the floorplan, torsion bar crossmember, and inner fender wells to fire wall flanges. Jack and level. Temp install hood, doors fenders, and install bare stripped out K frame to be sure its squared up before welding it on. Dont forget to temp install that K frame. That is critical to framerail spacing. Once your sure its square and ready to weld, wire weld it together.
This part is super important !!!!!!! Once installed you remove your upper radiator support from the old barracuda front clip and weld it into the new clip. It has your VIN partial stamped in it. The last 8 digits stamped in it match your dash vin. If your LH inner fender well has its data plate, remove that as well and reinstall it into the new inner fender well. Dont lose these pieces!!!!!!!!! Too many people lose this stuff all the time.
Thanks! I had planned on bracing the crap out of it before I start tearing parts out. I was wondering if those pillars were all pretty close, thanks for answering that.You can also buy some 1" square thin wall tubing and brace up the car before removing that A pillar or just to stiffen it up before doing the floor. That A pillar area is the same on all darts, and valiants that are a 2 door hardtop from 67-76 easy part to get off any parts car out there.